UKC

As Cloggy seems to be in people's minds at the moment, probably a minority interest posting!

I went up on Saturday wit my rather esoteric friend Metal, though young he has an odd inclination to adventure so we determined on spending a day doing no starred routes on Cloggy. First off was Brwynog Chimney, its a 1933 E1 on the Far East buttress and was good value for the grade and an excellent climb. Second was Gargoyle (HVS 5a on The Pinnacle). Its in the dead centre of one of the most spectacular bits of rock in the UK though sadly as we spent the entire route on the inside of a cloud I am hypothesising that it has some of the best positions of any route in the country, the climbing on the main pitch was certainly some of the best climbing I've done on cloggy. It would not surprise me if we were the first people in 40 years to do these routes, Gargoyle in particular had absolutely no signs of wear and just had loads of drilled out nuts on pre kermantle rope covered with a thick layer of grot.

Possibly the best no starred routes in the UK, go and do them!

mike

In reply to mike lawrence?:

cool! we had a great day there on Sunday but there are so many starred routes to do! I'll put those on my list though are they on the logbooks? worth commenting on to encourage others and let people know they're not lost under moss and ming

In reply to mike lawrence?:

I was at Cloggy on Sat Mike. How do we keep missing each other?!

In reply to mike lawrence?:



Quite a significant route then given the difficulty and date. Who did the FA, was it Menlove-Edwards?

In reply to Owen W-G:

no way! will email you now.

In reply to mike lawrence?:
Did gargoyle back in the 90's and agree position wise it's fab, as is easy rider next door. Guineverre on the pinnacle is also very exposed. On the west gecko groove and central rib deserve more traffic