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Trad Cojones - update

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 JDC 06 Oct 2015
Just a quick update on a thread I started back in the spring:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=613498&v=1#x8025710

So the good news is I seem to have discovered my cojones are still there after all. They've definitely shrunk a bit with age, but still there!

For me, the way back was volume on easy routes with good gear that suited my style (as recommended by many on the original thread). Plus challenging myself by climbing in unfamiliar places. Not necessarily harder, just different routes. Climbing exposed HS's & VS's above a crashing sea in Pembroke or multi-pitch in the Lakes with big exposure. I always find it intimidating, as it's not the sort of climbing I'm used to, but it did seem to make a big difference.

As the enjoyment returned, so did my ability to push the grades up a touch, as well as being able to focus on climbing and enjoying the moves without panicking. I onsighted a few E1s, repeated an E2 I seconded a while back and then lead San Melas at The Roaches at the weekend - I'd tried it in the past on a rope and said I'd never lead it as it was way too bold up top, but it just felt right on the day and went smoothly.

So thanks for all the positive comments in the original thread, and or anyone who finds themselves in a similar position - keep the faith

 MischaHY 06 Oct 2015
In reply to dashed:

Nice work! Keep it up

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