UKC

Decided to freeze our extremities at Burbage South today. It was cold out of the sun but we had two excellent and contrasting experiences on these two climbs (amongst others).

How glad am I not to have volunteered to lead the apparently easier HS, Tower Climb. My partner was a shambling wreck by half way up and it put paid to his ability to do anything other than dribble for the rest of the day. It took me at least half an hour to second the bloody thing (the blood was all ours). What a horror show. We agreed afterwards the climb was ungradeable other than as Traditional. But if that means I have to do it every year you can forget it.

And how lucky for me to get the lead on Byne's Crack. Rarely has the unassuming grade of VS 4b delivered more. There are spectacular moves on perfect jams, a wonderful layback flake, a glorious halfway eyrie with a no hands rest, amazing exposure and perfect protection throughout on a route whose imposing prospect delivers a mighty feeling of satisfaction. Definitely in my top 5 VSs.

In reply to BnB:

Have a go at the HVS next to Byne's - did it early this summer. Its really nice and not too hard for grit HVS I didn't think, although I did break a rib or ribs doing it!

In reply to TobyA:

I did peer up at the HVS which looked pretty mild for the grade but I assume the crux was higher up and therefore hard to judge from below. I only had one route left in me after the Traditional horror so I let prudence be my partner ;

How did you hurt the rib?

In reply to BnB:

Wondered why on earth you did it then remembered Rockfax gave it a star so I guess it's that... cruel but funny Burb South is an odd place... despite being a bit dark and dank at times it's got lots of delightful climbs around VS (Byne's being equal best) but also lots of nasty ones.

In reply to Offwidth:

Which is the other choice VS?

In reply to BnB:

"around VS" ... it's the HVS next door

In reply to Offwidth:

i was worried you might say Roof Route. We both backed off that one on lead and even found it unnerving to second.

In reply to BnB:

Roof Route and David are good routes in that sort of grade. (David gets HVS but it's a softy)

In reply to BnB:

I like Roof Route but it does need the right technique... just practice what you can get away with on foot locks on wide crack boilder problems... climbed the top bit 'no-handed' once (just feet and elbows). Gable Route next door is also nice.

In reply to deacondeacon:

Roof route I thought was a piece of piss: just keep foot-jamming. David, well don't hang about, but a tactical head pays dividends. Just a small layback, and some sensible thruching. My bete noir at BS is Dowel Crack. Must buy some sparring gloves for the top, or get arm extensions. One of my favourite crags though. And I will do Goliath if my body stops packing up! And Byne's is good. Is the hvs next to it Brook's?

In reply to BnB:

Roof route feels hard to fall off once your buried sufficiently in it. But upwards movement is challenging! Put my gear on a sling for the HVS. A krab with a cam on it, on the bandolier, caught between my ribs and the rock, and the ribs gave in first. Was trying to be clever, using the bandolier too...

In reply to TobyA:

Our problem with roof route was we tried to face climb it like the slab-loving softies we are. Definitely not VS with that approach. And a tad scary without the security of the foot locks.

In reply to TobyA:

Thats why if you are sensible you stay mainly on the outside above the locked foot... its bloody hard to lift the foot or move anything otherwise.

In reply to BnB:

Its also a really nice technical slab arete top-rope for the second that way.... way above VS terrain though.

In reply to Offwidth:


That's how we did it in the end. As you say, way above VS!!