UKC

A few weeks ago I posted here asking for advice about writing, as I had an article that I was trying and failing to beat into shape.

Thanks to everyone who gave advice. I managed to apply enough of it to get the thing finished at last, even though it's not quite what I originally had in mind.

So for anyone who is interested, here is an account of a bumbly having a not particularly successful climbing holiday: http://www.avon-mc.org.uk/2015/10/grim-north/

In reply to davidbeynon:

Nice write-up - pity about the weather!

When the guidebook was published we went up for a launch party and Thorbørn said it might be "a bit early" (the start of June). Only when we got there did we realise how cold and snowy it was, though things perked up later in the month.

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

At the start we only had the old guide, as Lofoten hadn't really been part of the plan. The first thing we did after the Svolvaer debacle was head into town and buy the Rockfax

In reply to davidbeynon:

Liked it Dave, cheers!

In reply to davidbeynon:

Ah, early season in Norway. Can't beat it. Even with global warming it's still a total coin toss.
Great write up.

In reply to davidbeynon:

enjoyed it some great photos too.

In reply to alasdair19:

I was lucky enough to spend two weeks in lofoten in June this year with only 2 days of rain. While there we were repeatedly told that there was great climbing elsewhere but I couldn't remember where, thanks for this, it answers that question!

In reply to jonnie3430:
The guidebook you want for that area is "Stetind and Narvik: Dancing on the Devil's Dancefloor"

www.amazon.co.uk/Stetind-Narvik-Dancing-Devils-Dancefloor/dp/B009OBXTYU

From Lofoten the boat to Skutvik takes maybe a couple of hours, plus an hour or so driving with one short ferry crossing to get into the hills.

It's a 3-4 hour drive around so there's not much to it in terms of time but if the sea is calm I would take the boat every time.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Interesting article and an amazing place to visit. We were up that way in June too (and climbed Pianokrakken in the rain).
We made 2 attempts on Bare Blåbaer - 1st time it was hyperthermic and the second time were beaten by the crowds (I have a photo of 6 people, all trying to climb the 1st 2 pitches at the same time!!).
We also visited Stetind (23rd June), but were thwarted by the snow too. I think it would have been possible to do the South Pillar (direct from the ground rather than traversing in), but getting off the top would have been more difficult without lugging extra gear up the route.

Did you buy the Stetind Guide over there? We looked around bookshops in Narvik but never found it.

In reply to Dave Rumney:
I'm surprised we didn't run into one another. I was there from the 13th to the 28th.

I got my copy a couple of years ago in the UK. Not 100% sure but I think it was from Outside in Hathersage.

In reply to davidbeynon:

We drove from the UK in a VW campervan and were in Lofoten from 6th - 22nd June so i'm surprised we didn't bump into each other either.

I've seen copies since in the UK - In fact I should buy it whilst it's still available.

In reply to jonnie3430 - I think you got lucky with the weather - it rained every day on us for 12 days (but then it cleared up and was fantastic).

In reply to Dave Rumney:

Question for anyone who was there about the same time.

Did you see any evidence of that fast food van in Svolvaer ever being open?

It moved across the square a couple of times but there were never any signs of life.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Excellent write up. Really enjoyed it.

In reply to davidbeynon: Never noticed it and also unfortunately didn't see any of the nice cakes you found either!!

In reply to Dave Rumney:

The cakes were from the cafe on the other side of the market square from the tourist information in Svolvaer. The mystery fast food van was around there as well.