UKC

NEWS: Pembroke New Routing Spree: Disco Buttress

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 UKC News 28 Oct 2015
The top of Disco Buttress, 3 kbDave Talbot and Henry Castle have made the first ascent of seven new routes in Pembroke. 'Disco Buttress' at Mother Carey's Kitchen is destined to be a popular crag as the routes are of a high quality, non tidal and give some easier options for those climbing in the area, ranging from Severe to E3.

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Ackbar 28 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:
was wondering how many new routes are there left to do in the UK.

number of new routes = length of rock faces in metres / 5 (assuming a new route every 5 metres*) - no. of exisiting routes.

Can anyone fill in the blanks??

*will differ from rock type and should also include a factor for variants and traverses
 Rich W Parker 28 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Nice work Henry!
 The Pylon King 28 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Surely route 3 hasn't actually had a proper first ascent yet?
 The Pylon King 28 Oct 2015
In reply to Ackbar:

Loads of potential if you know where to look.

Having the whole of the Pembroke coast photographed is an advantage
 Webster 28 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:

im guessing the mega line you wre defeated by is the direct start to route 2 up that corner crack?
baron 28 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:
Nice looking routes, isn't one of them the descent route for Mother Carey's?


Pmc
 Bulls Crack 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Ackbar:

> was wondering how many new routes are there left to do in the UK.

> number of new routes = length of rock faces in metres / 5 (assuming a new route every 5 metres*) - no. of exisiting routes.

> Can anyone fill in the blanks??

Not really (!) but places like Pembroke will, like mountain areas, have plenty of potential for shorter routes

 Mick Ward 29 Oct 2015
In reply to baron:

> Nice looking routes, isn't one of them the descent route for Mother Carey's?

As damned with faint praise goes, this is right up there with the best!

At least the OPs' efforts haven't fallen in the sea, like a few of mine.

Mick

 Fiend 29 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Looks nice, anyone for the first ascent of Disco Biscuit?
baron 29 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:
In reply to Mick Ward - I was asking a 'serious' question but now you've mentioned it maybe I should have posted in the 'best climbing put downs ' thread

Pmc
 BALD EAGLE 29 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Good work you pair of dancing disco diva's... Cheers Dave
Removed User 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Fiend:

If it's good enough for Big Ron on Strawberries... Bring back the yo-yo!
 Macca_7 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Urgles:

Not even remotely close if that footage is the only ascent to date?

Honest question surely that doesn't qualify as a first ascent?
 Bulls Crack 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Macca_7:

A first ascent but not a first free ascent...old skool!
 FactorXXX 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Macca_7:

Honest question surely that doesn't qualify as a first ascent?

I don't think even Gibson would claim that as a first ascent!
 Michael Gordon 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Urgles:

> Surely route 3 hasn't actually had a proper first ascent yet?

Good looking route though. The perils of filming yourself!
 Cog 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Macca_7:

> Not even remotely close if that footage is the only ascent to date?

> Honest question surely that doesn't qualify as a first ascent?

No it doesn't.
 jon 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Nice looking routes, isn't one of them the descent route for Mother Carey's?

> > As damned with faint praise goes, this is right up there with the best!

Well, and this, Mick:

> I don't think even Gibson would claim that as a first ascent!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Oct 2015
In reply to FactorXXX:

> Honest question surely that doesn't qualify as a first ascent?

> I don't think even Gibson would claim that as a first ascent!

Depends if anyone was watching surely?

Chris

 Tom Last 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> Depends if anyone was watching surely?

> Chris

>

Reminds me of the story of a young hot shot (Can't remember who) top roping a route and when his friends walked around the corner into view he greeted them with, to paraphrase: "Oh no, you're ruined my on-sight!"
Post edited at 21:05
 Mick Ward 29 Oct 2015
In reply to jon:

He's a good lad really. These days, you'll not find anyone more self-deprecating.

Mick
 Mick Ward 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Tom Last:

This also was said in self-deprecating jest.

Mick
 Tom Last 29 Oct 2015
In reply to Mick Ward:

Naturally, all good fun
 neuromancer 30 Oct 2015
In reply to UKC News:

A big fan of the sixteen point runner nest on that e3
 alan moore 30 Oct 2015
In reply to baron:

I'm sure you're right about this being a way down though!
I did a scrambling descent at the point shown on the map at about V Diff/ severe standard. It provided useful low tide access to the main Rock Idol area......
baron 30 Oct 2015
In reply to alan moore:
It's shown as a descent route on page 284 of my 1985 guidebook - that's why I asked the question.

Pmc
 The Pylon King 30 Oct 2015
In reply to alan moore:

maybe its where the E3 goes?
 alan moore 30 Oct 2015
In reply to Urgles:
I'm pretty sure I could fall down an E3, but down climbing sounds a bit ard.
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