UKC

Off widths on dartmoor

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 keepguessing 05 Nov 2015

Would like to see if we could get a substantial list of off width climbing on dartmoor(if there's enough), bouldering or lead both are fine.
Post edited at 01:38
 Paul Baxter 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

The only one I can remember is Aramis at Hay Tor - but it looks like you've already done it.
 Tom Last 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:
Off-widthing on Dartmoor isn't that great, surprisingly, Cornwall is much better.

However there are a few, all about VS.

Hound Tor - Cantilever Direct, HS 4b
Leather Tor - King Jam, about VS (confusingly this is described incorrectly in the SD&D guide as being at the opposite end of the tor and being E1 6a. It was claimed again recently as this http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=208419 at HVS 5b, but really it's more like VS 5a)
Irish Man's Wall - Surform, HVS 5b

All of those 3 are very short.

At Dewerstone, if I recall correctly, there is from memory some awkward wideness on the 1st pitch of Climbers' Club Direct, HVS 5a, but you wouldn't really call it an offwidth.

Can't really think of much else to be honest, although I'm sure there is more.
Post edited at 08:44
 Tom Last 05 Nov 2015
In reply to Paul Baxter:

Aramis is a hand crack though, although a great route.
 ianstevens 05 Nov 2015
In reply to Tom Last:

> Off-widthing in the UK isn't that great, surprisingly, America is much better.

Fixed that for you.
1
 Tom Last 05 Nov 2015
In reply to ianstevens:

Well naturally, but if you live in the west country, Cornwall is a bit more accessible than say Vedauwoo and still better than Dartmoor.
 james.slater 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

Im sure Samuel Wainwright will be along shortly, bet he knows a few. The ginger king of offwidths
 Tom Last 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

I forget The Funnel, severe at Saddle Tor.

Despite the grade, it's probably the hardest of the lot!
 flaneur 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

Tom is too polite to mention this himself so I'll do it for him.
Get yerself to Luxulyan: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25013.0
 Toerag 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

Haytor - North Face Chimney? I remember doing an armbar on it. It wasn't too bad.
 Tom Last 05 Nov 2015
In reply to flaneur:

Thanks Flaneur, very kind.

There are indeed some great offwidths there, but perhaps a bit off patch for the OP.

 Cheese Monkey 05 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

Armada at Dewerstone? Possibly more of a chimney cant remember. Top pitch of Climbers Club Direct? Very sloppy fist for me at least if I remember rightly.
OP keepguessing 06 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:
Climbers club direct's first pitch and aramis are hand cracks for sure near the top pitch of climbers club (original or direct) can be jammed if you find the right places in the crack (probably easier with good off width technique, bum crack and hound tor has a few moves of off width climbing near the top if you just use the crack(green and slippery, the funnel at saddle tor is a easy chimney though can be climbed with chicken wings though according to my partner there are some decent holds in the crack.
Also since we are on the topic of crack climbing any body know where i can get some pretty clean finger cracks on dartmoor? I'm not asking for indian creek but i would like something fairly clean. Any body know anything that's relatively clean?
Post edited at 05:05
 Tom Last 06 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

For finger cracks, or at least routes/problems with a few finger crack moves, Anaerobic Crack at Hound Tor, Easdon Crack at Easdon Tor, maybe Limestone Cowboys? (not done it), probably a load of stuff over Bovey Woods. Can't think of much off the top of my head, but my bet is that there's more than there is offwidths.
 FactorXXX 06 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

Off widths on dartmoor

Best place for him and I hope for his own safety that he's in solitary...
 Tom Last 06 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

And what do you think you're playing at calling The Funnel easy! The Moor has ears you know - it's the hardest route on Dartmoor by a country mile!

 Bob Peters 09 Nov 2015
In reply to soloing 9a with out you looking:

Widecombe Wall at Chinkwell. Feisty little number.
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