UKC

1. Is there any decent climbing in the 4 to 6a+ rang in Chulilla
2. If so is it in the sun
3. If so is it near to crags with decent low and mid 7s?

I can see from the logbook page for it here there are plenty of routes just not sure if they are old sandbags on rotten gear, or loose cracks and chimmneys etc. Basically, have any low grade sport climbers, on here, been to Chulilla in the depths of winter and enjoyed it?

In reply to Tyler:

Hi, this isn't a very good answer but it might get you started. We visited Chulilla about 15+ years ago. Back then, great place, lots of superb looking rock - but hardly developed! We ended up going to some slabs called Fantasia. I think the stuff was about F5+ to F6b+. If I remember correctly, the grades were all over the place. The climbing was lovely but you had to go through overlaps. So every Brit, irrespective of ability, was giving it, "Watch me!", while all manner of Spanish dudes where going woosh, splat! We passed by in a cold spell, so I'm guessing it was in the sun! Don't know where it was in relation to further development. Because of the overlaps, not really what most people want from easy clipping in Spain.

Sorry, as I say, not a very good answer. But, if it gets you started... Chulilla sounds great, these days, for harder stuff.

Mick

In reply to Tyler:

Esteem to remember there are some slabbier and fairly sunny outcrops that have easy stuff on them but they tend to be the ones outside the main gorge itself so fairly separate from the harder sectors in the gorge (ie a short drive).

In reply to Tyler:

I'm heading out there on Wednesday for the first time and was kindly directed by someone on here to www.climbmaps.com

Register there, navigate to the Chulilla pages and you'll find a much better overview of the area with hi-res photo topos. It really is an excellent facility when read in conjunction with the UKC database.

In reply to Tyler:

Many of the easier routes in the main gorge are "old school", ie not only less generously graded in the first place but now also very polished. Also the warmup at sectors like oasis are rather sandbaggy compared to the harder routes and already getting polished. I haven’t been to the outlying sectors and they may poss be better but you might want to check there's enough to keep you busy.

For the grades you want to climb you could alternatively consider Montenejos - many more routes in your grade range and a lovely setting .

In reply to Tyler:

And this is where you say....

In reply to Fraser:


Thank you very much for all the responses! Unfortunately I'm still undecided but I'll definitely be checking out that resource you mentioned, just not had he chance yet.

In reply to Tyler:

Went there in Nov 2012 and have to say it was not great. Weather was cold and wet, which of course did not add to the attractions. Both the village and the refuge were pretty much closed.

The rock seems to polish quickly so even quite recently established routes can be affected. We did some stuff on, I think, Cheralles and Pennetta, which were OK but not great and a multi pitch in the gorge opposite the refuge. Sorry I can't give names as I don't have the guide. We quickly headed north to Lleida area, which I much preferred (more choice, less polish). Chulilla is certainly one of the worst places I've climbed in Spain but, as I say, the weather was vile which may have coloured our judgement. I'll not be going back.

In reply to Wiley Coyote & the OP:
Update from Chulilla: without a doubt, this is the best place I've ever climbed. Weather just now is perfect and the rock immaculate, with a few polished exceptions on the low 6's. Superb, high quality routes many of which are bang on 40m. A friend onsighted a 55m 7c earlier today which was fantastic to watch. Quite busy at Oasis today, but no surprise given its the weekend and the weather was ideal. There's still a lot of equipping going on - we even saw a couple of guys out bolting a new line on an otherwise blank sector. It was a rest day for me today but I'm looking forward to getting back to some of the best crags I've visited.

In reply to Tyler:

Come Join me and Pete for Xmas!

In reply to Fraser:

Sounds like that old Camp Granada song: 'Hey wait a minute, it's stopped raining......'

Everywhere looks better once the sun comes out. Enjoy your trip!

In reply to Tyler:

I'll be there from the 5th Jan for 5 days if Fi needs a punter to climb with...

In reply to Wiley Coyote:

Hah, you could be right with that. A holiday's a holiday after all and this this sun is great after the recent rubbish weather back home.

In reply to Fraser:

How child-friendly is it on the sectors you went to? Do you know if there's much in the 6s and 7s range that doesn't need scrambling to get to and has flattish bases?
Thanks

In reply to john arran:

I'm also around Chulilla at the moment - so far we've been to sector Competición, which has a bunch of high 6s/7s and a reasonably flat base, but had a steep & somewhat loose approach.

We also went to sector Peñeta, which has loads of stuff in the 6s, and a good flat base for most of it. A large boulder and some trees provide shade if needed (it was on Friday!). The approach was good - handrail ropes on any part that got slightly steep (though they were quite unnecessary).

In reply to joel182:

Thanks for that. May be keen for a trip in a few months time.

In reply to john arran:

I've only be too Oasis and sectors either side of that and to be honest, it's a bit of a bush whack to get up there from the dam end. It's probably only 15mins from the parking but with small kids it might be a bit slow going. Feels like you're walking through a sugar plantain single file in places. One American couple had a tiny toddler in its own wee padded 'pen' at the base of their routes but that's not always practical give the narrowness of the path at some pinch points. Bigger kids wouldn't be a problem.

Superb climbing though, even if it was too cold for me to try anything hard today. I had to bail to the other side of the gorge, sit in the sun and take photos with a long lens.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Might yet see you there but the earliest we'd fly out would be the 1st so unlikely to cross over for more than a day or two

In reply to Mark Westerman:

That'd be cool Mark, you've also inadvertently answered my original question. The fact you are returning for a second visit suggests there are plenty of low grade, easy angled, well bolted routes

In reply to Fraser:

Thanks Fraser. Doesn't sound too promising but I'll keep it on the list for further investigation.