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I can't be bothered scratching around on terrible hooks/smears with no good gear. Please suggest routes that are V/VI and have good hooks and gear (ideally steep).
R
R
3
1
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Good idea! If you know of any e3's that are jug fests all the way up can you let me know?
Good idea! If you know of any e3's that are jug fests all the way up can you let me know?
15
6
3
In reply to jonnie3430:
Ocean Boulevard and Boulder Ruckle...
> Good idea! If you know of any e3's that are jug fests all the way up can you let me know?
Ocean Boulevard and Boulder Ruckle...
9
In reply to jonnie3430:
Mothers pride (gets E4 though), Voyage of Faith, I'm sure there are others.
Generally they will be steep.
R
Mothers pride (gets E4 though), Voyage of Faith, I'm sure there are others.
Generally they will be steep.
R
In reply to Roberttaylor:
It's the only V, 6 I've done but I can vouch for the sinker hooks and good gear on the crux pitch of Shadow Buttress B, Bell's Route, Lochnagar
It's the only V, 6 I've done but I can vouch for the sinker hooks and good gear on the crux pitch of Shadow Buttress B, Bell's Route, Lochnagar
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Savage Slit springs to mind as an obvious suggestion. Bomber hooks and gear the whole way from memory.
Savage Slit springs to mind as an obvious suggestion. Bomber hooks and gear the whole way from memory.
In reply to Webster:
Indeed, as does Piggots route on Ben Eighe.
At least they both felt about the same when I climbed them a few years back.
> ...Cutlass....
Indeed, as does Piggots route on Ben Eighe.
At least they both felt about the same when I climbed them a few years back.
5
In reply to Mr. Lee:
Did it on Saturday, enjoyed the experience, hence looking for more of the same!
R
Did it on Saturday, enjoyed the experience, hence looking for more of the same!
R
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Auricle if you fancy another route in Lochain. Safe as houses, crux pitch is bridging on pretty good hooks. It gets voted 'hard' VI in the logbooks but I didn't think it was. Top pitch maintains interest.
Auricle if you fancy another route in Lochain. Safe as houses, crux pitch is bridging on pretty good hooks. It gets voted 'hard' VI in the logbooks but I didn't think it was. Top pitch maintains interest.
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Most of the classic V/VIs on Stob Coire nan Lochan - Crest, Para Andy, Evening Citizen, Scabbard etc. and Bidean Church Door fit the bill, as do fusalage wall routes on Ben Eighe, and number 3 gully buttress (gargoyle wall etc) on Ben until ices up.
Most of the classic V/VIs on Stob Coire nan Lochan - Crest, Para Andy, Evening Citizen, Scabbard etc. and Bidean Church Door fit the bill, as do fusalage wall routes on Ben Eighe, and number 3 gully buttress (gargoyle wall etc) on Ben until ices up.
3
In reply to Roberttaylor:
North Wall Groove at the Cobbler, but needs turf to be well frozen for the upper crux to feel positive.
North Wall Groove at the Cobbler, but needs turf to be well frozen for the upper crux to feel positive.
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Go for obvious crack lines and corners on Cambrian Quartzite, and away you go...
Go for obvious crack lines and corners on Cambrian Quartzite, and away you go...
1
In reply to jonnie3430:
Get yersel to Elgol. There's even an E4 that fits your description. Just realised that it's already been mentioned ha!.
I seem to remember Chimney Route at SCNL having pretty good hooks?? (t was a while ago)
> Good idea! If you know of any e3's that are jug fests all the way up can you let me know?
Get yersel to Elgol. There's even an E4 that fits your description. Just realised that it's already been mentioned ha!.
I seem to remember Chimney Route at SCNL having pretty good hooks?? (t was a while ago)
Post edited at 14:50
In reply to CMcBain:
interest as in dodgy hooks and poor gear........... Big Lee (above) who was thankfully leading might confirm whether my memory serves me correctly (or that I'm just crap........)?
> Auricle if you fancy another route in Lochain. Safe as houses, crux pitch is bridging on pretty good hooks. It gets voted 'hard' VI in the logbooks but I didn't think it was. Top pitch maintains interest.
interest as in dodgy hooks and poor gear........... Big Lee (above) who was thankfully leading might confirm whether my memory serves me correctly (or that I'm just crap........)?
Post edited at 15:05
2
In reply to Kirill:
It was well frozen when I did it but felt both bold and insecure!
> North Wall Groove at the Cobbler, but needs turf to be well frozen for the upper crux to feel positive.
It was well frozen when I did it but felt both bold and insecure!
Post edited at 15:03
In reply to Robert Durran:
Third pitch was pretty sparse on gear I remember. Wouldn't class it as 'good gear'.
Edit: With ref to Auricle
Third pitch was pretty sparse on gear I remember. Wouldn't class it as 'good gear'.
Edit: With ref to Auricle
Post edited at 15:29
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Think you'll like Crest Route then also. All pretty positive from memory, bar one move on the final pitch. Think I laced it pretty well.
Think you'll like Crest Route then also. All pretty positive from memory, bar one move on the final pitch. Think I laced it pretty well.
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Tallibalan in Grey Corries.
Another vote for chimney route in SCNL (and intruder, crest route etc).
I also thought NWG on the cobbler was bold and insecure, def remember there being a distinct lack of positive hooks on the crux - and not huge amounts of turf...
Tallibalan in Grey Corries.
Another vote for chimney route in SCNL (and intruder, crest route etc).
I also thought NWG on the cobbler was bold and insecure, def remember there being a distinct lack of positive hooks on the crux - and not huge amounts of turf...
In reply to Kirill:
That's nothing like what the OP wants. For a Cobbler route Recess Route is closer to the brief.
> North Wall Groove at the Cobbler, but needs turf to be well frozen for the upper crux to feel positive.
That's nothing like what the OP wants. For a Cobbler route Recess Route is closer to the brief.
In reply to DaveHK:
Ok I seem to be in the minority here regarding the NWG. I must have been having a good day, and now my memory is playing tricks on me.
Ok I seem to be in the minority here regarding the NWG. I must have been having a good day, and now my memory is playing tricks on me.
In reply to CMcBain:
Did you lead? nice to see the art of sand bagging is still alive and well, it is well protected at the crux, quite a powerfull move off a tenuous hook, leads away from the gear, it is overhanging at this point, so quite strenuous, great route.
Another contender is Stirling bridge, steep and positive, with bomber gear, then a slightly more tenuous move at a bulge nr top.
Did you lead? nice to see the art of sand bagging is still alive and well, it is well protected at the crux, quite a powerfull move off a tenuous hook, leads away from the gear, it is overhanging at this point, so quite strenuous, great route.
Another contender is Stirling bridge, steep and positive, with bomber gear, then a slightly more tenuous move at a bulge nr top.
Post edited at 16:48
2
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:
Yes, remember the crux of Auricle being either a very long move or a few moves on poor hooks. Pitch 3 also pretty good.
Yes, remember the crux of Auricle being either a very long move or a few moves on poor hooks. Pitch 3 also pretty good.
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Double Chaser & Tainted Elixir, Coire Chat, Cruachan.
Right Angled Gully Direct, North Rib Route, Cobbler.
Directosaur, Lost Valley Buttress.
Stuart
Double Chaser & Tainted Elixir, Coire Chat, Cruachan.
Right Angled Gully Direct, North Rib Route, Cobbler.
Directosaur, Lost Valley Buttress.
Stuart
1
In reply to Stuart the postie:
when your in lochan overseer direct is soft and safe. Both pitch have short tech 6 bits with gear at nose height.
deep throat is a terrific pitch last year it was almost a clip up but eventually someone will. rip out some of it
when your in lochan overseer direct is soft and safe. Both pitch have short tech 6 bits with gear at nose height.
deep throat is a terrific pitch last year it was almost a clip up but eventually someone will. rip out some of it
In reply to MrRiley:
From what I remember the poetic Patey description for the crux went something like, 'flit across a blank wall to reach a wobbly handrail'. Although like you say the gear is mostly all good and when frozen in the handrail ain't wobbly so you can sling it confidently, before turning the small roof onto from what I can remember being good hooks like you say. The 'blank wall' is really nice quite balancy climbing though. Excellent route.
> It's the only V, 6 I've done but I can vouch for the sinker hooks and good gear on the crux pitch of Shadow Buttress B, Bell's Route, Lochnagar
From what I remember the poetic Patey description for the crux went something like, 'flit across a blank wall to reach a wobbly handrail'. Although like you say the gear is mostly all good and when frozen in the handrail ain't wobbly so you can sling it confidently, before turning the small roof onto from what I can remember being good hooks like you say. The 'blank wall' is really nice quite balancy climbing though. Excellent route.
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:
Lead the crux corner pitch, don't mean to sandbag, perhaps I was having a good day when I did it! Don't remember any of the hooks being that bad, a couple small but very positive ones whilst bridging out. Gear seemed good, although the proximity of the ledge for the first few meters was a bit disconcerting.
A softer option could be 'The Lamp' in Sneachda. Steep with sinker hooks on every move and as much big gear as you can carry. Although make sure its frozen, I'm sure one day that the route will all fall down on a wet summers day.
Lead the crux corner pitch, don't mean to sandbag, perhaps I was having a good day when I did it! Don't remember any of the hooks being that bad, a couple small but very positive ones whilst bridging out. Gear seemed good, although the proximity of the ledge for the first few meters was a bit disconcerting.
A softer option could be 'The Lamp' in Sneachda. Steep with sinker hooks on every move and as much big gear as you can carry. Although make sure its frozen, I'm sure one day that the route will all fall down on a wet summers day.
In reply to CMcBain:
Hmmm, I thought V,5 for The Lamp so wouldn't regard it as that safe...
Hoarmaster is a good one. A lot of good gear and hooks, though some steep torquing also.
Hmmm, I thought V,5 for The Lamp so wouldn't regard it as that safe...
Hoarmaster is a good one. A lot of good gear and hooks, though some steep torquing also.
In reply to alasdair19:
Both good suggestions. As ever, if icy the protection won't always be quite what you'd like it to be. Done both under such conditions!
> when your in lochan overseer direct is soft and safe. Both pitch have short tech 6 bits with gear at nose height.
> deep throat is a terrific pitch last year it was almost a clip up but eventually someone will. rip out some of it
Both good suggestions. As ever, if icy the protection won't always be quite what you'd like it to be. Done both under such conditions!
In reply to alasdair19:
Just to illustrate that conditions are key...
I took the biggest whipper of my career so far off the Overseer Direct. A combo of overconfidence, deep rime and verglas lead to what I now realise was a fall close to factor 2 and about 30m in length.
> when your in lochan overseer direct is soft and safe. Both pitch have short tech 6 bits with gear at nose height.
Just to illustrate that conditions are key...
I took the biggest whipper of my career so far off the Overseer Direct. A combo of overconfidence, deep rime and verglas lead to what I now realise was a fall close to factor 2 and about 30m in length.
1
In reply to vscott:
I'd second Scabbard Chimney on SCNL, though P1 will feel rather bold and sketchy (though not steep) in thin conditions. Pitches 2 and 3 are a gear 'n' hook fest though. Three really interesting, contrasting pitches in a stunning setting. What more could you want?
I'd second Scabbard Chimney on SCNL, though P1 will feel rather bold and sketchy (though not steep) in thin conditions. Pitches 2 and 3 are a gear 'n' hook fest though. Three really interesting, contrasting pitches in a stunning setting. What more could you want?
In reply to adamarchie:
I thought the hooks and gear on pitch three were somewhat sketchy! Pitch one seemed fine though.
> I'd second Scabbard Chimney on SCNL, though P1 will feel rather bold and sketchy (though not steep) in thin conditions. Pitches 2 and 3 are a gear 'n' hook fest though. Three really interesting, contrasting pitches in a stunning setting. What more could you want?
I thought the hooks and gear on pitch three were somewhat sketchy! Pitch one seemed fine though.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Goes to show what a difference the conditions make. The route was quite thin when we climbed it and P3 had hooks and gear all the way.
Goes to show what a difference the conditions make. The route was quite thin when we climbed it and P3 had hooks and gear all the way.
In reply to adamarchie:
Yes I'd say the first bit is a bit bold but then the climbing's not as difficult (felt V,4 ish). With 60m ropes though it's do-able all the way through the crux in 1 pitch (leaving a IV pitch above).
Yes I'd say the first bit is a bit bold but then the climbing's not as difficult (felt V,4 ish). With 60m ropes though it's do-able all the way through the crux in 1 pitch (leaving a IV pitch above).
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Stirling Bridge VI, 7 at Aonoch Mor.
Bomber gear - check
Good hooks - check
Steep - check
Stirling Bridge VI, 7 at Aonoch Mor.
Bomber gear - check
Good hooks - check
Steep - check
Post edited at 14:25
In reply to Lone Rider:
Ha, yes! As the guidebook says, it doesn't tend to hold much ice, but on the occasion it does it becomes considerably easier!
> Always thought it was an ice route myself!
Ha, yes! As the guidebook says, it doesn't tend to hold much ice, but on the occasion it does it becomes considerably easier!
In reply to Robert Durran:
Yes we had all the cracks filled with cruddy unhelpful ice, although every time my mate who was leading said "I'm not sure about this..." he found another piton under the crud!
> I thought the hooks and gear on pitch three were somewhat sketchy! Pitch one seemed fine though.
Yes we had all the cracks filled with cruddy unhelpful ice, although every time my mate who was leading said "I'm not sure about this..." he found another piton under the crud!
In reply to edinburgh_man:
Failed on that back when it was V,7. Really blooted with snow and ice and finding the gear was hard work - the cracks are there but not really bomber if the conditions are against you!
Failed on that back when it was V,7. Really blooted with snow and ice and finding the gear was hard work - the cracks are there but not really bomber if the conditions are against you!
In reply to Roberttaylor:
Belhaven on Fiacall buttress, coire an t'sneachda. So much gear I ran out of extenders.
Deep Throat in Lochain. Wild positions but safe.
Menage a Trois, Ben an Dothaidh. Very hooky. May involve a bit of a runout at the top, but on easier ground.
Belhaven on Fiacall buttress, coire an t'sneachda. So much gear I ran out of extenders.
Deep Throat in Lochain. Wild positions but safe.
Menage a Trois, Ben an Dothaidh. Very hooky. May involve a bit of a runout at the top, but on easier ground.
In reply to davewragg:
Though it also, I think, has a reputation (and in my experience) for often being in pretty bold condition.
> Belhaven on Fiacall buttress, coire an t'sneachda. So much gear I ran out of extenders.
Though it also, I think, has a reputation (and in my experience) for often being in pretty bold condition.
In reply to Robert Durran:
Could be. It's not so steep, so probably builds ice in some conditions. Just snowed up rock when I did it (apparently there was turf at one time...).
Could be. It's not so steep, so probably builds ice in some conditions. Just snowed up rock when I did it (apparently there was turf at one time...).
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