In reply to Urgles:
I interpret this to mean technical difficulty in Font grades, which I guess could account for sustainedness but not scariness. In the books, I think the Font grades are pretty bonkers if compared to Font grades in, you know, Font.
> The Chant HVS
Bit of a trick move, not hard. Maybe 4?
> 20 ft Crack S
2? or 3 due to polish?
> Wednesday Climb HVS
4+
> Mutiny Crack HS
3
> Evening Wall E1
4+
> Black Slab VS
2? But really irrelevant!
> The Sentinel E2
Again, really irrelevant, wouldn't know without soloing it, and even then...
> The Irrepressible Urge E1
4+
> Long Tall Sally E1
No idea again, nothing like bouldering
> Rose Flake VS
> Right Fin HVS
4
> And what trad grade did All Quiet on the Eastern Front used to get, E1 6a ?
Yup, and the right grade too I think.