UKC

I wear Red Chili spirits. However I find they let me down on some of my efforts: heel cup is way baggy and the edging is not great (though they are comfortable). I can use them no real issue up to f6b but on higher grades, with more technical moves (heel hooks etc) and teeny weeny foot holds, they can make a move harder or more sketchy.

What would be a good shoe up from these but without requiring I curl my foot into a talon?

In reply to Flinticus:

If you have wide feet then these: http://www.scarpa.co.uk/climb/vapour-v/ should see you right.

Andy F

In reply to Flinticus:

Hey up fellow flat toer! I have pinks and Love them. I had one of 3 pairs resoled with MI6 rubber for some super stick after reading about 'smedging'.

I badly broke my big toe yrs ago and it doesn't bend. My hybrids are the first time I've felt like I've had the chance to really play with new shoes like the toe crimpers do. That said my straight pinks are still awesome!

In reply to Flinticus:

Simond Vuarde Tech slippers, £50 from decathlon online, cant go wrong . Out of the box they're stiff enough for decent edging but slowly soften into great smearing shoes. One point is the heel isn't great, but if there's one thing that's difficult to get right with shoes it's the heel, everyone needs a different fit! The best fitting heel I've come across so far is on the Scarpa Instinct Velcro but they are toe bending talon shoes... :p

5.10 also do a purple version of the Anasazi Velcro's which uses the older stiffer rubber and is meant to be better for edging. Also there's the ever popular Scarpa Vapour velcros which are a good all-rounder.

Hope this is helpful,
Pete