UKC

we have all been there , when are arms say "No" and our mind says "we have to"!

vimeo.com/147818699

In reply to gd303uk:

Language Timothy

In reply to gd303uk:

Tip to all, don't grab the draw in this scenario unless you want your hand ripped in half. Second tip, don't Google for images of the aftermath of this type of climbing accident.

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

Third tip, if you think you're too pumped to clip. try climbing up so it's by your waist and trying again. This way if you fumble and fall off, at least you'll be higher off the ground when you stop

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:


Daren't google it.

So, is holding the draw or fingers through the krab , not recommended?

In reply to Jimbo C:



Not sure it works like this.

When I am lead soloing, because the solo device makes it hard to clip high, I have a long sling preclipped to the rope to get a temporary high clip if needed.
Too much faff for normal climbing and who am I to speak about the subject, broke an ankle on the second last time out by myself

In reply to Rick Graham:

In your setup, then no, my scenario is wrong because you are effectively extending the clip rather than putting the rope all the way up to the clip and then back to yourself.

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

I've seen the aftermath of that for real. It was grim.

In reply to Tom Last:

I've had that injury and it is grim , 19 stitches alter uuugghh

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

I made a mistake.

In reply to nbonnett:

So, Nige, I guess that was from getting your hand/fingers trapped in a partially opened krab gate ?

I think I have seen the pic, not looking again

Grim, as you say.

In reply to gd303uk:

What a lot of wimpering though!

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Big Jessie!

In reply to gd303uk:

"What is that moaning sound?"
"No not what you think!"

*turn down sound before starting climbing vids*

In reply to gd303uk:

Well at least it wasn't a full clipper whipper, I.e with the rope pulled up into his teeth. They are exciting! Or even worse - saying bollox to a clip because you're too pumped to clip in and carrying on hoping for some respite before the one after and not getting it....shiiiit!!

In reply to gd303uk:

Gave me a headache all that shaky footage.

That fella needs to man up a bit.

In reply to jezb1: I wonder if the verbal theatrics were for the camera and maybe all the rest of it?

In reply to gd303uk:

That headcam footage made me feel seasick.

Top tip if you find yourself in that position, clip an additional quickdraw onto the one already in situ, it makes clipping easier

In reply to gd303uk:

Jaysus wept, he was whimpering like he was fiddling RPs in above a death fall. Sport climbers eh.

In reply to gd303uk:

go pro must make all holds look enormous. It looked barely 4c, three huge jugs, weight over your foot on the second one, clip. 3 moves, 5 seconds, done.

I have done my fair share of farting around getting pumped and doing stupid things obviously

In reply to Steve Perry:


Did that once! Horrible hold next to penultimate bolt, and with an enormous tempting jug by the anchors I opted to keep climbing. Was so pumped at the anchor I kept fumbling the rope and had to accept my stupid fate. Lots of air but a nice cushy fall with all that rope out!

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

yup, been there, ended up 4 metres above my last bolt and 8 metres above a ledge, trying not to do maths...

In reply to john irving:

Looks like a classic bunch of mistakes I would make. Logical head says if he couldn't clip he should have just said take and made sure he took the ride properly (maybe after as much downclimbing as possible).

He was lucky he didn't end up inverted, since the rope was pretty much behind his foot.

If he didn't have that stupid go-pro weighing him down and messing with his COG he probably would have got the route.

In reply to Rick Graham:


The term you're looking for is that most horrific of words: "degloving". I don't recommend a Google image search.

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:



https://www.mountainproject.com/images/73/36/109857336_medium_5a0a30.jpg

is that this one??

In reply to planetmarshall:


Not sure what people are on about with grabbing the draw - its standard practice when working sport routes!

Grabbing it mid-fall might be a problem but I didn't see the guy in the video do that....

Maybe people are confused with putting a finger through the eye on a bent angle fixe style hanger which does run the risk of de-gloving if your foot pops.

In reply to petellis:
you're in for a treat if you google it,

sorry, be warned graphic
http://www.chockstone.org/forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=5&MessageI...


but yes sport draws have been made easier to grab but if you grab the Krab pumped out of your mind or just unlucky , there can be blood .

In reply to petellis:

From what I've read if you fall and grab the draw, and you end up grabbing the biner, the nose can puncture the skin and rip through skin and tendons. With such blunt carabiners these days it seems hard to achieve, but falling forces are big.

Grabbing the webbing is fairly acceptable if you know the risks, but if your hand slides down it in desperation and onto the biner...

In reply to gd303uk:

strange how it's hard to resist the urge to look