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Winter Conditions: Valdres / Hemsedal (Hallingdal) & Lærdal

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Winter Conditions: Valdres / Hemsedal (Hallingdal) & Lærdal


After a slow start to the season sustained colder temperatures are here.

Snow cover is general below normal levels for this time of year, especially in Hemsedal and Valdres. Filefjell has good cover however.

Ice:

Hemsedal: Building, but below average for the time of year. Poor snow cover.

Valdres: Building, better at hight. Climbed Hyllefossen (Fagernes) a few weeks ago, good conditions/ very little snow. Classics like Langåni and Drøsja where not in last weekends. Other smaller routes often buried in snow are however in. "Skjerva i Øye" (Vang) looked complete. An attempt was made recently on this fall, but the party posted deep snow on the initial easy ice and decided to climb elsewhere (1km up the valley on a unknown ice fringe finding good conditions at 1100m). High up in the Filefjell area ice has formed, however there is no guide book for this area.

I´ll try and take some pictures soon Been a bit dark on the way past many icefalls recently.

Depth hoar has been observed throughout the area


Some useful sites

http://varsom.no/Snoskred/ This site supplies avalanche forecasts

www.yr.no is the weather site or another is use www.storm.no

http://skredkart.ngi.no Is a rather swanky site that allows you to highlight slope gradients.








mick taylor 23 Dec 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Hi Jamie and keep 'em coming. Armchair climbers like me still keen to know.
In reply to mick taylor:

Thanks Mick!

Up-date. Just before Christmas the temps climbed again and many classic icefalls fell down. Everything has changed again and cold temps are back. Drove from Bergen today along the E16. Ice forming in many places. Gudvangen being one. Not so much snow at all in Lærdal but ice was forming thought-out. More so lower down than higher up. Over Filefjell which has more snow than other areas ice has built considerable. Down in Vang it started getting dark so i didn't see much, but classics like "Skjerva i Øye" (Vang) was back (on the 23rd it had stripped completely on the shallow sections). Looks like cold temperatures have returned for awhile which is positive for ice building.

Not sure whats up in Hemsedal or further south in Stavedalen, will ask around and get some info.

No pictures! Both times I have tried to take pictures it has been poor light or snowing

-15 at home in the valley, at Fielfjell ski centre -20 this morning. Good skiing conditions if you know where to go

Ice is building but will probable need some days before it becomes good. Saw Langåni; was nearly formed but the two pillars had not touched down yet. Drøsja is forming. needs more time. Other falls in the area look doable. To dark to take pictures when on the way up to Filefjell this morning.

I´ll post conditions pictures (when I get enough light / visibility) on our FB page:

https://www.facebook.com/valdresfjellguider/?ref=hl
 sanguine 30 Dec 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Looking forward to updates on the formations here - we're scanning around for long routes i.e. more than 3 pitches, in the region. Langåni looks like fun for sure - hoping for some updated pics when you're ready. Effort is very much appreciated Jamie.
Update: 04 Jan 2016

With the return of colder temps (today -15 to -20), winter has returned. Snow has fallen. Powder has been skied. Avalanches have been observed.

Langåni is from what I can gather, formed or near formed but needs a bit longer.

Drøsja is not formed: it has a greater volume of water to freeze before coming in.

Other falls in the area are forming / formed. Around filefjell they look climbable.

With the quick drop in temps I would imagine the ice will get brittle. Nice if you like that sort of thing

Lower down in Valdres around the small town of Bagn I have been told conditions are good. I have had no info on Stavedalen but I would imagine it is formed.

No info on Hemsedal as I haven't been over for awhile.

I would say you could get a good weeks climbing done in Valdres at the moment. Walk in would be easy as the snow cover is thiner than normal. You might need to move about a bit to keep within your grade but that would just expose you to some beautiful landscapes.
 sanguine 05 Jan 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Booked in now for the last five days of January, staying in Flåm (best location we could manage without having the wallet emptied). Going to scout around between Gudvangen and Lærdal looking for long-ish routes there (e.g. seltunfossen, ljosnefossen, vikaberget etc.). In the meantime using road webcams and yr.no to check for conditions. In the end I guess we will just need to bring our binoculars and bivvy gear to avail of the best opportunities.
In reply to sanguine:

Sounds good. I have seen (but not climbed) many waterfalls running up the valley from Flåm.

Right now it -20, over the next few days it will sink some more before rising back up next week.

 sanguine 07 Jan 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

That sounds then like the ice-forming conditions should be ideal
 ollyroberts 07 Jan 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Thanks for all the updates on conditions Jamie. Have you heard on the grapevine any rumours about conditions in Rjukan at the moment? Cheers.

 HeMa 07 Jan 2016
In reply to ollyroberts:

> Thanks for all the updates on conditions Jamie. Have you heard on the grapevine any rumours about conditions in Rjukan at the moment? Cheers.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/118510158161538/?fref=ts
 ollyroberts 07 Jan 2016
In reply to HeMa:

Thank you!!

-26 in Beitostølen (860m) today and -20 down in the valley. Ice building. Routes in for the hardy or those that have good circulation The weather station at Filefjell had a low of -31 at one point. Temps should begin to get warmer after the weekend. Coastal areas have also seen temps down to -10 and more. Snow cover is still thin especially in lower elevations.

Langåni in Vang looked complete, but I have had no reports on conditions of the ice.

Hemsedal. I have not received any reports. This does not mean things are negative, just no info.

Due to the start of the season being so up and down activity has been quite sporadic and slow.

In Filefjell there has been some good offpiste skiing if your willing to hike and search in unexpected areas.



 HeMa 08 Jan 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:
> Hemsedal. I have not received any reports. This does not mean things are negative, just no info.

Not a report per se, but AFAIK this is around New Years or so of Hydnefossen: http://vsco.co/joelormala/media/568e3a12b20376120ecd9b76

Looks to be in condition.
In reply to HeMa:

Thanks HeMa

Langåni in Vang in Valdes is complete as well as the other icefalls in the area.

I would imagine as it has been super cold this last week that everything that normally forms has. Reports filtering in off climbing been done throughout the area.

It has been cold. Today at Filefjell -18 and on the way home -21 in the valley. Next week it going to get colder for a spell. It has been relatively windless in places. The trees in some parts of the forest are bent over with snow. This makes for interesting travel in the forest, especially if you forget to put your hood up

Careful terrain travel is advised as facets and depth hoar have been noted in many locations. With conditions set to remain cold and stable the snow pack will not stabilise anytime soon. Good skiing can be found but careful route choice is needed.

for avalanche reports:

www.varsom.no
Post edited at 20:31

Word on the street says conditions good, especially down in the Sogn area. The cold weather is freezing falls down at coastal levels.

Still super cold in the mountains, although big variations in temperature from place to place have been observed.

On the way back from Filefjell all known and many unknown ice climbs were formed.

 sanguine 19 Jan 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

"Unknown" you say Some possible FAs for the region soon then? Sounds like the region has really come intoo form after a disappointing start. Any recommendations for the so-called 'known' climbs in the area? Can you write up some names perhaps and I can search then out?

Thanks again for the updates Jamie
In reply to sanguine:

Always difficult to know what has and what has not been done in Norway. Some areas have kudos some areas don't; not easy to understand why. In Vang community there is this huge cliff, stretching several km. I nearly crash the car every time I drive past it (which is nearly every day at the moment). Huge lines, untouched (?) Have only heard rumours that once it was climbed by some pioneers before they went to the Himalayas a long time ago. On the other side of the valley I have seen ice lines high up, steep, way out of my league. Have they been climbed? As a climber I find it hard to believe lines in view of a major road would not been seen by other climbers?

Possibilities for FA. Yes, and if you are willing to walk a bit.... unknown amount. Have they been done before...?

Then the Jotunheim.... not seen from the road in winter.....


Langåni in Vang in Valdes was climbed yesterday. Reports in, cold, dry homogenous ice. The climbing party found it in good condition.

 GarethSL 23 Jan 2016
In reply to sanguine:

The rule of thumb for an FA in Norway is that its probably an FRA or more locally put; 'I'm going to climb something and then spray to the world about being the first, which I'm probably not, but I don't care.'

Which will probably raise an eyebrow with the locals at best...

Still do it tho
Some picture (finally). Unfortunately the light wasn't so good today. They are from Vang in Valdres.

https://www.facebook.com/valdresfjellguider/?ref=hl


 PTG 27 Jan 2016
In reply to GarethSL:
Writing the "iceguide" to Gudbrandsdalen area I talked with quite a few "old" iceclimbers about FAs. They didn't understood the need to report everything, but most of the lines and falls that I explored were said to been climbed. So in respect, only two out of 60 falls with maybe 200 lines got names of the FAs. No new FA will be registered in the guide, except obscure mixed lines that earlier was not climbable without bolting. But information about unregistered falls/lines are of course welcome. In other areas this might be different.

PS: The ice conditions are good .
Post edited at 11:37
 GarethSL 27 Jan 2016
In reply to PTG:

Sorry to Jamie for throwing his thread on a tangent again, I know you dont like it

For your guide, how did you go about naming routes that had no name, no geographic name (eg name of a stream) and no way of finding the first ascentionists? I'm struggling with an 'in prep' guide for the trondheim area, that is laced with routes that have a generic geographical name and a number, or left/right version after them, which is very dull and makes for uninteresting reading.

Conditions in 'the valley' are excellent
 PTG 28 Jan 2016
In reply to GarethSL:

No science, but followed some "rules":
All places named in following manner: Area - Nearest geo feature (hill, stream etc) - "nickname".

Nickname established (over time and used by climbers/in newspapers/by locals etc): reuse, like "OL-traversen", "Pillarguri" "Jukulkula" etc.
If not established : try to propose and get consensus within the climbing community (ie those who cares - in fact very few). So we ended up with some based on nearby names, some with background from local history, some describing characteristic features and some from fairy tales, like "Bukkene Bruse" which come in three sizes, the same as the streams that are in the same area.
Some would like it and some would dislike it anyway. So far I've registered that quite a few do use the "nicknames" when they report or tell about the climbs. So if you want to name several lines in an area, maybe a name contest will do ?
 DanielJ 31 Jan 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

We climbed Seltunfossen, Laerdal, yesterday in very wet conditions. Due to late start we where second party on the route so had to climb steeper and wetter mid/left side. Fun climbing consistent around WI4/5, 200m, couple of hundred meters of approach climbing. Didnt fancy abalakovs in slush so walked of climbers left, 1hr then 4 abseils from trees.

Storm/Hurricane Tor twarthed our plans for Langåni. It looked excellent from the road. Never been to this area but will for sure come back.
 sanguine 01 Feb 2016
In reply to DanielJ:

Hi DanielJ,

We climbed Seltunfossen on Thursday last (28th January) and the conditions were not super then either. We were alone however, and managed some pretty decent sections. We exited before the last pitch however, and it was a bit of a slog home. A good looking route to be sure, though would not want to have tried it on the Saturday! We drove to Filefjell that morning instead rather than risk getting stuck in Laerdal for the weekend.

The same sentiments as yourself - first time to the area and will no doubt come back, but the warm temperatures in the valley and the rising melt line can jinx the climbing.

I recommend Filefjell too - found a great fall there (will get the name another time) - good solid sustained WI4/5 throughout. Have to come back and finish it.
 davewragg 01 Feb 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Conditions in Grøndalen, Hemsedal were good at the weekend, though there is a lot of deep snow on the approaches in some places. We climbed Teigafossen on Sunday. The first two pitches have not formed much ice this year but are possible. The Warthog and ice hook both saw action. Vøllakola looked in fantastic nick. Nystølfossen ice fangs not touching down yet. Everything on the other side of the valley (Tuvfossen side) looked fat. Get there before the sun melts everything!

Thanks for the posts. Great info!

During last weekend temps rose to just over zero for awhile before dropping again (during the storm). It has snowed quite heavily in Valdres today. Scanning around routes have been climbed all over the place It would seem last weekend was very busy.
Post edited at 19:42
 DanielJ 01 Feb 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

A couple of friends climbed Langåni yesterday. They thought it was a really good route in a nice setting with a spicy finish. (Apparently pretty challenging ice on the last pitch but nothing crazy)
In reply to DanielJ:

Langåni is one of those mythical-forgotten routes. It should be up there with the greats, and probable is, but is seldom talked about. Which is strange as its in full view of the E16 (One of the main roads between Oslo and Bergen). Its advertised as V in difficulty but I see those that have climbed it often post V/VI or even VI as the grade. Due to its location, facing the sun, it has a relatively short season.

It almost certainly gets climbed more than I think it does. The people that climb it just dont talk about it. Good for them.

 HeMa 02 Feb 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

> Langåni... Its advertised as V in difficulty but I see those that have climbed it often post V/VI or even VI as the grade. Due to its location, facing the sun, it has a relatively short season.

Scottish grade, alpine commitment grade or WI? As I think it is indeed considered WI 5 (in good conditions).

In reply to HeMa:

WI grade. Several people have told me some of the classics in the area are seldom WI 5 and always certainly WI 5 / 6. You could say the same for many icefalls however.
 sanguine 04 Feb 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Apropos, I have a colleague who thought that they had recently climbed Langåni, yet their trip photos did not jive with ours (we had climbed a portion of it the day before). We are wondering which route he climbed now - no information on isklatring.no of any use. He placed it on the map here:

https://www.google.com/maps/place/61%C2%B009'56.1%22N+8%C2%B029'1...

Anyone any idea what the route here is called? I can provide a photo of the route if needed.
In reply to sanguine:
Was it this one they climbed? https://www.facebook.com/valdresfjellguider/photos/pcb.958540927559467/9585...

There are two icefalls in the area you indicate. The one indicated on your link looks like the steep pillar and the other river to the west has a easier looking icefall. Neither of them are logged on isklatring.no. I would be interested in the history of both these routes, grades etc. I can't believe these route so visible from the E16 would go un-noticed.

The steep pillar route does not always form each year.
Post edited at 09:09
 sanguine 04 Feb 2016
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

It looks like it from the last section. He graded it as WI5, with a sustained final section (50 m with slight overhang). Highly recommended by him and an easy approach. Total length of 140 m. I believe he has since commented on the linked facebook picture in your recent post so the discussion can continue directly with him there if you wish
Conditions:

On a drive to Bergen: https://www.facebook.com/valdresfjellguider/photos/pcb.970352656378294/9703...

Routes formed all the way from Valdres to Voss (This includes Lærdal, Flåm, Gudvangen). Basically routes that can be seen from the E16 road.

Lærdal had very little snow, but loads of ice. Higher up, Filefjell has had quite a bit of snow. Ice on the sunny side just starting to turn very slightly milky, but still looks good. Some easy looking ice in Valdres is covered with soft snow.

Its been super cold again -23 today when driving to Filefjell. Warmer higher up.
Was over in Hemsedal yesterday:

Some photo: https://www.facebook.com/valdresfjellguider/photos/pcb.972481266165433/9724...

Generally things looked good. Grøtnuten was looking a bit milky from sun bleaching. Haugsfossen especially Indre (This route is above Hemsedal village) looked fat. I dont think I have ever seen Indre haugsfossen look so wide. There is also a Outer haugsfossen this is formed this year. Not seen that fully formed for awhile.

Temperatures have risen to a more acceptable level again

Conditions offpiste are variable. There is a lot of local variation.

In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

The last few days it has snowed, quite a lot. Been running a winter climbing course in Hemsedal for the last three days. Many routes on the sunny side are past there best. Snow on the slack sections is rotting the ice. Climbed on Haugsfossen today. Lots of rotten ice, careful route choice is needed. Still possible to find good protection.

North side looks good.

Snow offpiste is seemingly bottomless in places. A hard slab laying over facets crystals is something watch out for. Getting to the base of sone routes will involve some swimming at the moment.

Generally for this time of the year conditions continue to look good if you choose your routes. South facing routes getting eaten by the sun / may be out. Northside continue to be looking good.

Todays offering

After having the snowshoes in the car the entire winter a moment of madness saw me put them back in the house.

Our first effort was to swim into what is called "A hidden pearl in Valdres". This comprises a vertical pillar in a gorge. The highlight of the swim in was nearly stumbling into a fox. After what I thought was super human effort, we set the ropes up to abseil to find first the pillar was in bad shape and secondly our rope to short. We retreated. Second phase, we headed up the valley to a place I have wanted to visit for ages. We parked and immediately began swimming. At one point we crawled. At times each had to find there own peace within as crawling up hill in bottomless snow became, slumping downhill. soaked with sweet, its -10 you know as soon as you stop its going get cold. Stubbornness takes over, neither one wants to be the first to show a sign that this is pointless. Someone stops, another takes over, reluctantly and continues to swim as best they can. We reach the route, it looks good, really good, possible never climbed before. Excitedly we gear up. I get 10m up, alarms are ringing, warning signs are rushing through my head. Its not that steep, I can stand on my feet. The axes hits the ice, its this noise and feeling. It isn't right. In norwegian you often hear the phrase "tilbake melding" a return message, and the return message isn't positive. I push on, another ice screw. the alarm is becoming nauseating. I Place an axe, there something not quite right about it, none of them have been right, I weight it, it holds, I move my feet up. The axe rips, suddenly. The other axe and feet take the shock, I compose but not fully in composure. I quickly subdue the ego, get an ice screw in and respect the main rule, the leader never falls on ice. On the ground feeling wimpy I hand over the sharp end, he makes nice comments about having a bad day etc and heads off, shortly afterwards he's back on the ground. Something not quite right with the axes he says. I have another go, another axes suddenly, unexpectedly fails. Seemingly good, but clearly not. I make a thread and descend. We'll be back stronger we say, and start the swim back to the car. Next time with skis.

There is no shame in turning when things aren't right

Conditions on the southside, or falls in the sun: Rotten. On the North still formed, but due to cold temperatures at night and warm during the day care will be needed to choose a good fall.

Skiing off-piste looks good.

Walking off-piste without skis or snow shoes: Not recommended unless your into training
Post edited at 16:23


Long route climbed last Sunday in Gudvangen. From the pictures looks long really long. One of the guys reported to me the ice was melting fast so he thinks its all over in Gudvangen for this year.

Really warm yesterday. Was out running day 1 of a avalanche course. 3 types of avalanche problem: 1) Wet loose surface stuffs, 2) facets 3) Depth hoar

Warm yesterday: it was the first time this winter I have been able to sit and have lunch as longs I wanted and wasn't been motivated by the cold to get moving again
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Driving to work today: Vang ice..... Its over. The classics in the sun have fallen down or melted away. The north side: they look like polystyrene.

It should get colder again. Things high in the shade will survive, but they need to be high and in the shade.

Bring on the touring in the high mountains!


After a prolonged stable period storms rolled in over the last few days, bringing wet weather. Amazingly as it may seem ice on the shaded sides of the valleys has survived, but looks, especially low own rotten. Higher up it looks better. Unsure of the quality.

Focus has turned to ski touring. In places brutal conditions offpiste abound, but if you look and search good ski conditions can be found. Ideally we need warmer days and cold nights wth the odd dash of snow just to keep things really nice. If the days warm up slightly good spring skiing conditions will return.
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:
While winter conditions still prevail in the higher mountains, its basically Spring and focus has shifted to randonee / touring in the mountains and rock climbing on the sunny aspects of the valley. The fjord down from the house is still frozen, but essentially the ice is gone. Cold night time temperatures might hold some shaded icefalls in conditions. They would need to be very shaded and high.

Skogshorn look wintery the other day, however one sunny day will strip it.

The season started late, was excellent in the middle from Feb to March and has left us early. Winter is not over, even though the grass is starting to show in the garden. I won't be shifting the winter tires just yet as from my experience winter will come back. If only briefly.

Icefalls formed from the mountains down to the fjords, with each area having its own window of opportunity. Each winter that passes shows me how much is undone and waiting to be explored at all level.

Ski- touring is in full swing now and will continue in the high mountains well into May.

Thanks of the interest and see you next winter!
Post edited at 11:48

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