UKC

Are there any sport routes at Stanage Edge ?

And, what part of Stanage has the easiest trad climbing ?

Cheers
C

In reply to Csimp1:

There are no sports routes and there are easy routes all along. Get a guidebook and it will give you all the info you need.

In reply to TobyA:

thanks

In reply to Csimp1:

You could always drill some bolts yourself and create a sport route : )

In reply to jsmcfarland:

Don't say that on the internet! There are lots of people out there who don't understand irony.

In reply to Rog Wilko:


Or even ironmongery.

In reply to Lord of Starkness:
Or ironing? Why bother when your climbing t shirt will only get creased and sweaty.

In reply to climberchristy:


I don't think the locals will take too kindly to people hogging the routes while they're doing the ironing.infact I'll bet within half an hour they're would be a post on here about how outraged they all are,and another one arguing about the ethics of using starch on the collars.the boulderers aren't bothered though because they don't wear shirts anyway.

In reply to Csimp1:
The easiest area is probably the popular end of Stanage.

There's only a small section of bolted routes at Stanage at the moment with grades from 6a+ to 7b. Unfortunately the developers are a bit paranoid about the possibility of hostile reactions by some of the more hardcore trad climbers and so the exact location is currently a carefully guarded secret. Plans to retrobolt a few selected climbs at High Neb have been muted but so far these have been met with mixed reactions.

In reply to stp:

The real issue with bolting at Stanage is this nonsense of traditionalist insisting on bolts being placed by hand and the "no power drills" rule. Come on guys this, is the twenty first century. High Neb bolting would have been completed years ago if it didn't take 6 hours to place one bolt. I can't see how anyone can say the character of a route would change with power drilled holes. At the end of the day a bolt is a bolt, no matter how it got there.

I'm sure if the 1930's developers of Stannage, who originally chipped all the routes into existence, from the blank natural rock God had left them to work with, had had access to power tools, then they would have used them to good effect. Still, you've got to marvel at some of the sculptured cracks, slopers and edges that were produced with just a hammer, chisel and three grades of sandpaper.

In reply to stp:
I heard they were covering the bolts with brown coloured gaffer tape at the end of each session so that they wouldn't be as obvious from the ground.

In reply to climberchristy:

Combine the two with extreme ironing!

In reply to stp:

I hope they bolt quietus,that roof section is scary as f**k

In reply to Wsdconst: what? there's gear all over it

In reply to Wsdconst:

What? There's loads of gear on quietus roof and a safe fall out zone.

In reply to Csimp1:

Chrismas quiz: there is one bolt on stanage (that's one bolt, not one bolted line) - who can tell me where it is?

In reply to JJL:

Well I could tell you but where's the fun in that?

Chris

PS there are two other bolt holes (no hangers) on Stanage - extra points for their location.

In reply to Chris Craggs:




I remember when there were 2 pegs in Black Hawk Bastion, but a bit vague about the bolt/bolt holes, but I'll have a guess?

The wall of Cave Eliminate?

In reply to Goucho: There's a route there called 'one last bolt' or something but don't think it's there

In reply to JJL:


I got halfway up Right Unconquerable once and then bolted for it ha-ha-ha-ha happy new year.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Hence "Chrismas" in my post!










Actually just a typo.

In reply to JJL:



It's err.. on Bolt Buttress. An old fencing bolt from memory.

In reply to Goucho:



A bit further to the right,


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:




I remember finding one such hole whilst soloing - can't remember the route though !

In reply to Chris the Tall:

I have just checked, they are mentioned in the RockFax description actually:

Right Wall Route (HVD)


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:



I'm sure I recall prodding a finger into an old bolt hole on Cave Eliminate?

But it was back in the late 70's, so I could be confused!

In reply to climberchristy:


Safe ? Yeah ,until your gear pulls out.

In reply to Wsdconst:

There's always room for more,especially shiny new bolts that don't pull out.

In reply to DerwentDiluted:


It's the tin end of the hedge.

In reply to DerwentDiluted:


Congratulations on the WORST pun* of 2015!

And that clears up a mystery - in my extreme dimness I thought "fencing" in DerwentDiluted's post referred to the sport of fencing [foiled again].

*Signed, Abseil, self-appointed pun expert

In reply to Wsdconst:

Why would your gear just "pull out" unless you've not placed it properly? And if you don't trust your ability to place gear on a route like quietus where the placements are all obvious and good then you shouldn' t be any where near it. If however you can place gear well then it is exactly what I said: " a safe fall out zone" because its far safer to fall off a roof (i.e. into empty space) than off a vertical wall or slab where you'll hit rock on the way down.

In reply to climberchristy:

He's either trolling or he doesn't really "get" trad - I'm not sure which.

In reply to Jamie B:

Possibly both?

In reply to climberchristy:


Ok,thanks for the info.

In reply to climberchristy:


Possibly all three ?

In reply to Jamie B:


It's not if you get trad that matters,it's if trad gets you that counts.