In reply to ogreville:
I don't want to sound like a know-it-all here as I'm not but I have also seen what I would of deemed very bad route choice considering the conditions. Did they get avalanched? No they didn't.
I suppose it's like driving, Some people are happy to drive down the motorway at 90mph and others stick to the speed limit if you know what I mean.
I too try to minimise the risks and a wimp. I remember getting pretty freaked out whilst climbing Taxus on a Sat as we where the only team on it. Why? What did people know that I didn't ect...
I suppose it's a balance, everybody has to find what percentage of risk they are happy with to enjoy their climbing experience.
" Easier said than done. I'm at that limbo - anyone I know is either a comfortable winter hillwalker or a full-on ice and mixed warrior. The former aren't in to roping up for winter stuff and pushing it, and the latter don't want to take my sorry ass out and hold my hand all day. "
Are you looking for like-minded people to climb with in the mid grades?
If so, look here on UKC and post on the partners and lifts forum.
good luck.
cheers
Gaz