UKC

So i have been training on my fingerboard recently following 7on 3 off x5 with a 3 minute rest inbetwen sets. To begin with the last set was a proper battle, but recently it has been ok.

So my question is to continue training stimulus, would it be more effective to decrees rest time between sets or to and more weight and continue with the same rest period.

In reply to ffati:
Depends what you are training for if you are a route climber, stick with the durations but add weight. If you are a boulderer, then go with 4 on 12 off with added weight. 4 sets of 7 hangs with a 3:30min rest.

In reply to alx:

Route training is the idea as i need to try and keep fit while away working and in preparation for a Spanish climbing trip.

In reply to ffati:

Sweet, then just add weight.

Do you have more time to train other things than just fingers?

Peoples core tends to go first when climbing for long periods of time outside and this then cause the technique, arms and fingers to then fail. Buy a generic TRX 'sling trainer' and hook it over your board for some extra exercises.

Make sure you get a good solid week of indoor climbing in right before you go so you can get your climbing efficiency back after any non-climbing training.

In reply to ffati:

It's always worth thinking about exactly what factor you're training when fingerboarding. For example repeaters train strength endurance (or power endurance). Strength endurance is a function of your maximum strength, so training strength aswell should allow for greater improvement in your endurance.

In reply to Lead dnf:

Repeaters train whatever you want, the hang time to rest time ratio combined with what % of your 1 rep maximum load is how your tailor your fingerboard routine.

Be mindful that training strength endurance will not improve on your strength and if you don't have the strength then there is nothing for you to endure. In, addition, being stronger will mean that a hard move will use less of your overall strength meaning you can recover quicker

Train strength first and foremost as this takes the longest to acquire, then in later phases switch to strength endurance, followed by endurance. Boulderers can skip the endurance part.

In reply to alx:

I agree yeah, but repeaters generally refer to brief rest times which tend towards strength endurance. Deadhangs refer to 6-10 sec hangs near 1RM with 2 or so mins rest. Just terminology really but makes researching easier.

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/02/fingerboarding-timings.ht...

Try to keep up some degree of strength training year round because as alx says it takes far longer to develop than endurance.

In reply to alx:
So what's the best finger board routine to purely train strength?

In reply to alx:


That's a pretty interesting claim but one that seems at odds with most people's experience. I could see it in certain specific types of climbing, most obviously roof climbing. But for more usual angles that are closer to vertical does that really still hold true? The common perception is that its normally the fingers give out first in most types of climbing. Is this based on a study somewhere?

In reply to stp:

I know my fingers give out first due to my core.. .. but I think that's due to my core being fat and flabby!

In reply to kevin stephens:

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/dead-hang-training-on-small-edge...

Give this a read, it's nice to have training with some studies to back it up. I've been following something similar to this using a beastmaker 2000. Basically 6-10 second deadhangs with max added weight, 2 mins between hangs. Noticed a hell of strength increase.

In reply to stp:

Apologies I should have been a bit more specific and said in context for bouldering, where simply you don't get enough time on the rock for fingers to wither and fail before something else pops like a foot and your off. Do a long session of projecting and you will find its your core that goes first, the body positions, footholds and technique are completely different outside to indoors. I suppose it's different for routes where you have more opportunities for rests.

Regarding training strength on a finger board, try 4-5 seconds on with 12 seconds off but with a very heavy load added. Eva Lopez's maximum added weight, minimum edge width protocol outlined in the link is very good and has worked for me in the past.

The protocol I used was add a large load and hang off a one finger pad deep edge in half crimp for 10 seconds. You need to calibrate the load so that you feel that you would fail at 13 seconds but you get off at 10 seconds.
Do low number of reps, 1-2 per set with a good 3-4min break.

Once you start hitting 50-60kg added weight the harness is really uncomfortable, switch to one handed hangs and build up to adding weight.

I didn't find the minimum edge but very useful accept to reinforce my mind how truly small an edge you can hang off if you will yourself to do so.

I would also advocate getting a small sling and some weights and hanging weights off each finger in a half crimp to figure out what is and is not your weak point. Difference in a fingers length compared to its neighbors can have a massive influence on how you use your hand and how strong the fingers get as you will have a favoured grip position. Once you figured this out, strengthening the weakest link in the chain will have a big difference, bigger than trying to eek out more strength out of strong fingers.

Tom Randal's TrainingBeta podcast is pretty good at helping you get your head around the different energy systems which support forearm performance in the different climbing disciplines and is well worth the listen.

Good luck Happy crimpers,

In reply to ffati:

This is the basic advice I give out...

Strength - 5 on 5's - which is '5 second hang with 5 second rest x 5 times as a set. Take 3+ minutes rest between sets. 5 sets in total. Adjust your weight/hold at the start - so that you start to fail on the last hangs in the last sets. If you make it through all 5 sets without failing you'll need to add more weight. Or if you work out your 1 hang maximum (heaviest weight you can hang on for 1 or 2 secs), these need to be done at about 85% off that. Personally I've had great success with this protocol for improving absolute strength.

Strength/Strength Endurance - Repeaters 7 sec on 3 off x 6 times as a set. Take 3 minutes rest between sets. Anything up to 6 sets. You'll know about it in the latter sets! Talked about everywhere as a good protocol for fingerboarding. Difficult to do when your first starting and you'll probably get 'pumped out'.

Max Hangs - 10 to 12 second hang x 8. Take 3 minutes between hangs, you need to try and be well recovered. Adjust your weight/hold at the start - you should be nearing failure/failing at the end of the hang!

I've been doing 3 fingerboard sessions a week over winter.. 2 of them consisting of 2 number 5 on 5 protocol and 1 of 1 number 5 on 5 and 1 max hangs. This is working out quite well after a 3 month block. I'm soon to switch too 7 / 3 repeaters for a few months but always keeping a max hang session in every week.

In reply to Paul Crusher R:

Good info. So I'm interested in whether you do other work that stresses the fingers/forearms and if so how you mix them with the hang sessions. Do you boulder/climb, campus or do finger tip pull ups or anything else. If so what about rest days. Thanks.