UKC

Hi everyone,

I will be visiting the Isle of Wight to visit family, but ill have a free day on June 2nd that I would like to climb on. I have a couple of questions about the climbing there. I have looked at the guidebooks on this website, but any additional information would be helpful!

1) Since I'll be flying I won't be bringing my trad rack, Is it possible to easily set up top-ropes on a handful of routes to justify a day a climbing? Or is there a climbing guide service that could take me out for a day of climbing?
2) Or is anyone looking for a climbing partner for June 2nd? I've been climbing for 3-4 years, with a hardest redpoint of 5.12c (I think this translates to 7b+), and I am comfortable lead belaying, as well as having multi-pitch experience, but I don't have any experience climbing on chalk outcrops or climbing sea cliffs.

Thanks in advance!
Adam

In reply to aNolte:
Hi,
The Isle of white is best known for its Chalk cliffs - which either a strong stomach for dubious gear or ice axes and crampons are generally required. Skeleton ridge is a very memorable outing along the famous needles and at a grade which doesn't require super hero status.

Close by on the mainland is swanage and further on portland. Both have bolted climbing, with swanage also having some excellent trad fun to boot.

I'd suggest bolts for a day - its easier to find partners and requires less faith in strangers on what can be committing sea cliffs. You could just go to one of the popular crags and ask around. I believe there are people who would guide for a day, but i dont know any personally who are in that area.

There are areas where top ropes can be set up without leading, but you'll have most fun on better routes with leading.

Be aware that some of the trad areas (and a few bolted areas) will be bird banned in June.

Have fun! Enjoy.

Forgot to mention - deep water soloing and bouldering also in the area.

In reply to Kevster:



Although, the ferry is very, very expensive if you consider going to the mainland for a day. Obviously if you are tagging it on the end or before the island trip, that will be fine. I vaguely remember a £150 return ticket with the car two years ago.

Cake

In reply to aNolte:

Forget the isle of Wight (for climbing). Do NOT go trad climbing on Swanage. Best to go a little further west to Portland. I'll probably be too hot for 5.12. Best to drop grades and do lots of 5.10/5.11.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


What rubbish, Portland's crap for trad climbing!

In reply to EddInaBox:

How kindly phrased. I quite agree with you, Portland is crap for trad climbing (and I should know). But, although I could have been clearer in my post (it was late and I was tired), I think you'll struggle to prove I claimed that Portland was a viable trad destination.

[To the OP] Go sport climbing on Portland.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

>Do NOT go trad climbing on Swanage.

Errrr why? Swanage trad is the mutts nuts!

In reply to joe.wahab:


'...but I don't have any experience climbing on chalk outcrops or climbing sea cliffs.' [The OP]

Not a good place to learn (and this topic has been done to death on these forums).

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:


... Or if you aren't a bolt clipping wuss, hook up with someone with a trad rack and go to Swanage*.


*I realise this isn't terribly helpful advice if you're stuck on the Isle of Wight.

In reply to EddInaBox:


Oh dear.

Perhaps I should ask you how many extremes you've soloed onsight; but I'm far too polite to do that.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:




oh go on Mick, be impolite!

In reply to Mick Ward:

Twelvty four and a half if you must know.

And the guidebook was wrong when it said they were all diffs!

In reply to aNolte:

Hi Adam,

Swanage is an excellent place to go trad climbing on sea cliffs, there are options where you can walk down to a non tidal ledge and do very short pitches (whole families go there, Dancing Ledges and you could set up top ropes + some sport), through areas where it is possible to scramble down obvious lines, Subluminal, all trad 20-30m, or full on committing abseil in to sea level foot ledges - not somewhere you would start. Some sport scattered through the Swanage crags too. Best bet is hire a guide for the day and they can take you on some routes to challenge and delight you. I think there is someone just starting to advertise on here.
Enjoy your day, I hope you get the weather to make it a good one.

Phil

In reply to aNolte:

There really isn't any suitable climbing on the Isle of Wight itself. As others have said the ferries to the mainland are hideously expensive considering the length of the crossing - much cheaper without a vehicle though.
I agree with Mick that Portland Sport is probably your best bet, although Swanage has much to offer if you have the right partner and start at the friendlier crags.
Not sure what public transport links are like from the ferry crossings, but the Yarmouth to Lymington link lands you furthest West on the mainland and hence nearer to the Dorset crags. Perhaps seek a partner through this site near the time who can collect you en route for a petrol (gas) contribution, or failing that hire a guide (the MIA qualification is what you should look for).
As you seem set on a specific date it is also worth reiterating the untrustworthy nature of the British weather, no guarantee of it being dry (even in summer), flexibility is often the key to getting stuff done.

In reply to aNolte:

Yarmouth to Lymington appears to be £7.30 each way as a foot passenger, with all the travelling involved to get to a decent crag you are going to need to be keen to make it all come off, good luck!
If you get to Portland there are over 1500 bolted lines from F2s to F8s, loads of great stuff on the West Coast in the F6 and F7 range, with good weather as a first time visitor I'd suggest the Blacknor North area.

In reply to aNolte:

With a car, Cowes to Southampton (no climbing but you have a car so can drive to Swanage/Portland) was £36.50 return and that was no booking in advance. Make sure you sail at odd times ie, really early in the morning and back late at night.