UKC

Whenever I try to heel-hook, I get a really painful cramp in my calf and have to lay off. I have no idea what causes it as I'm pretty flexible, keep myself well-hydrated, and eat plenty of salt.

Googling around hasn't really uncovered anything useful, other than a thread on here from 7 years ago, and a suggestion that I should exercise my heel-hooking muscles.

Does anyone else get the same thing? How do you deal with it? And what exercises would be good for heel-hooking muscles?

In reply to Clinger:

I sometimes feel cramp coming on when I try to turn a high heel hook into a rockover. I don't tend to worry too much as it's such a specific movement but it takes higher and harder hooks to cause it now than it used to, so I think it's just a case of developing the strength and flexibility to push it harder! I find these moves are usually encountered bouldering, so maybe spend more time in the bouldering wall and try to use heel hooks as much as possible, even when there's another option for the same move.

In reply to Clinger:

I always get that on Testpiece at Brownstones. I'm afraid I don't have anything for you in the way of cures though. The advice from Chris sounds like a step in the right direction though. I notice you're a similar age to myself and I don't think that this kind of thing gets any easier as you get older. I rarely do high heel hooks which I think is definitely a factor, reckon my body simply isn't used to it and complains accordingly. I also get bicep cramp when going up hill, right at the end of a tyrolean traverse, again something that I rarely do.

In reply to Clinger:

Yes, I do. I think it's God's way of telling me that I'm the wrong shape for the problem in question. Bouldering only, as far as I can recall.

I go and try a different problem - as a solution, that stops the cramp.

In reply to nniff:

Thanks all - At least it's nice to know it's not just me.

nniff - I do pretty much the same as you in terms of just moving to a different route, but I'm finding as I try to move onto harder climbs (which is around 6c for me) that heel-hooks become a more and more required technique so would love to fix it.

I think my best bet is to try using them on easier routes where I wouldn't normally to see if that builds resilience in the muscles concerned.