UKC

Another 'recommended me' ticklist post

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 Mr-Cowdrey 22 Feb 2016
I know, i know, it's probably been done to death and yes I've searched the Forums.

However, I'm planning a UK rock trip for later this year, probably a week (8 Days), maybe longer, starting in the Lakes and working my way down country to Cornwall.

I'm looking for multipitch routes from HVS to about E3, predominantly mountain routes and sea cliffs, but places like Wintours Leap aren't out of the question And possibly with a link up theme (but it's not the be all and end all).

Link ups wise (just to give an idea), I've looked at linking Octo (E1 5b) and Pinnacle Arete (E3 5c) on Cloggy, as well as Nexus (HVS/E1 5b) on Dinas Mot and The Grooves (E1 5b) on Diffwys Ddu/Cryn Las

I've thought about doing the classics in the grade range ie buying Hard Rock, but thought I'd ask the knowledgeable folk of UKC to recommend their favourites and hidden jems that are worth travelling for.

Thanks in advance

1
 Gael Force 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

High Crag Buttermere and Esk Buttress.
 Kemics 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:

It's on the way to Cornwall in Devon. A stop by at berryhead

Moonraker - supposedly one of the best hvs's in the country
Dreadnought - e3

both wild multipitch routes on sea cliffs...although i've done neither..i plan to this summer!
OP Mr-Cowdrey 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Kemics:

Completely forgot about Berryhead! Those 2 routes have been on my list for a while too, cheers for the reminder
 Martin Bennett 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Mr-Cowdrey:



Regarding your poss Cloggy link-up Pinnacle Arete is not E3 5c but E2 5b. I wonder if you were thinking of the classic combo of Pinnacle Arete and The Hand Traverse (which IS E3 5c). If you did mean Pinnacle Arete one of a number of suitable approach routes might be Serth also E2 5c 5b and a very good climb. Then you could do The Hand Traverse as well, which was our idea but we had a look and bottled it!

Or just do one of the big West Buttress routes (W Butt Eliminate? Bow Right Hand? White Slab?) then you might not feel the need of a link up!

The best link-up I've done in Wales was Suicide Groove & Javelin Blade, (at Idwal), Grey Arete (Glyder Fawr), and Hebenwi (Clogwyn Du). In The Lakes maybe Laugh Not, (White Ghyll), Arcturus & Golden Slipper (Pavey Ark) and Poacher (Gimmer).

But the possibilities, like the answers to your question, are endless!
OP Mr-Cowdrey 22 Feb 2016
In reply to Martin Bennett:

Yeah it was the Hand Traverse I was thinking of but good suggestion for the E2, just incase I bottle the E3

I'm very tempted with White Slab, I was going to do it last time I was at Cloggy but settled on Longlands Climb instead as I didn't feel up for a big route like that on a crag I'd never been to before.

I'll have a look at your link ups suggestions, cheers.

Soo many answers, I know! I just like the idea of link ups and big days spent in the mountains.

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