This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
OK, what does the collective experience of UKC think is the best girdle in Britain?
It has to be a proper girdle (so classic traverse lines such as DOWH, Gob, Astral Stroll, Bullroar etc etc, don't count)
For my choice, I'm going to avoid some of the more obvious candidates and go for Appian Way on Castell Y Gwent.
Superb climbing below a big roof in a stunning position, nicely sustained and following ground which is easier and less serious than it looks, but still offering plenty to keep you on your toes.
And as an added bonus, you don't have to worry about the crag being too busy and the problems that brings when doing a girdle?
It has to be a proper girdle (so classic traverse lines such as DOWH, Gob, Astral Stroll, Bullroar etc etc, don't count)
For my choice, I'm going to avoid some of the more obvious candidates and go for Appian Way on Castell Y Gwent.
Superb climbing below a big roof in a stunning position, nicely sustained and following ground which is easier and less serious than it looks, but still offering plenty to keep you on your toes.
And as an added bonus, you don't have to worry about the crag being too busy and the problems that brings when doing a girdle?
2
In reply to Goucho:
I enjoyed the Girdle of Buckstone Howe, a short walk in which to be fair does not bother me, but straight into a High Mountain crag, slightly challenging rock, with different skills required such as down climbing and it does finish on the top. Anyway I enjoyed it. The Buckstone Girdle (VS 5a)
I enjoyed the Girdle of Buckstone Howe, a short walk in which to be fair does not bother me, but straight into a High Mountain crag, slightly challenging rock, with different skills required such as down climbing and it does finish on the top. Anyway I enjoyed it. The Buckstone Girdle (VS 5a)
In reply to Goucho:
For something esoteric, out of the way and rarely climbed, I would suggest The Daisy Chain, given E2 5c but not really that hard, just spellbinding positions above the gaping void!
Check out at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=151370
For something esoteric, out of the way and rarely climbed, I would suggest The Daisy Chain, given E2 5c but not really that hard, just spellbinding positions above the gaping void!
Check out at http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=151370
Post edited at 19:36
In reply to Goucho:
The ones I enjoyed during my "girdle phase" were (in no particular order) the more obvious candidates
Chee tor
Carreg hylldrem (spelling?)
Stoney (alcasan & pendulum)
Craig Arthur (about 10 pitches of hand traversing!)
All done when climbing walls were mainly traversing so good training for girdles
The ones I enjoyed during my "girdle phase" were (in no particular order) the more obvious candidates
Chee tor
Carreg hylldrem (spelling?)
Stoney (alcasan & pendulum)
Craig Arthur (about 10 pitches of hand traversing!)
All done when climbing walls were mainly traversing so good training for girdles
Post edited at 19:46
1
In reply to Sean Kelly:
I've done Oriele and Snowdrop on that crag, and thought them both very fine routes, so can imagine a girdle line would be a good excursion.
> For something esoteric, out of the way and rarely climbed, I would suggest The Daisy Chain, given E2 5c but not really that hard, just spellbinding positions above the gaping void!
> Check out at The Daisy Chain (E2 5c)
I've done Oriele and Snowdrop on that crag, and thought them both very fine routes, so can imagine a girdle line would be a good excursion.
In reply to Goucho:
Traverse of the Gods Font 8b+ ***
Craig y Longridge
The absolute daddy of traverses, uncompromising, steep, pumpier than you'd think possible.
Start at the left of the crag and go right. A long way.
I'm going up in about 3 weeks to get specked on it. Again
Traverse of the Gods Font 8b+ ***
Craig y Longridge
The absolute daddy of traverses, uncompromising, steep, pumpier than you'd think possible.
Start at the left of the crag and go right. A long way.
I'm going up in about 3 weeks to get specked on it. Again
1
In reply to SiWood:
I've never really got into traditional limestone girdles like Chee Tor, Pendulum etc. Always found the moves a bit repetitious - though Cream Team Special as a rope of 4 in drizzle was fun.
> The ones I enjoyed during my "girdle phase" were (in no particular order) the more obvious candidates
> Chee tor
> Carreg hylldrem (spelling?)
> Stoney (alcasan & pendulum)
> Craig Arthur (about 10 pitches of hand traversing!)
> All done when climbing walls were mainly traversing so good training for girdles
I've never really got into traditional limestone girdles like Chee Tor, Pendulum etc. Always found the moves a bit repetitious - though Cream Team Special as a rope of 4 in drizzle was fun.
In reply to Goucho:
for a mountain crag this: Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall (E1 5b)
for a sea cliff, this with the abseil down mammoth: The Girdle Traverse (HVS 5b)
and for an outcrop, this: Burning Giraffe (HVS 5a)
all thoroughly good adventures and deserving of more popularity
for a mountain crag this: Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall (E1 5b)
for a sea cliff, this with the abseil down mammoth: The Girdle Traverse (HVS 5b)
and for an outcrop, this: Burning Giraffe (HVS 5a)
all thoroughly good adventures and deserving of more popularity
In reply to Goucho:
The girdle traverse on Gogarth
The Lord of the Rings on Scafell East Buttress
The Cuillin Ridge Traverse
The girdle traverse on Gogarth
The Lord of the Rings on Scafell East Buttress
The Cuillin Ridge Traverse
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:
Doesn't it get a route grade of F8b+, not a boulder grade?
> Traverse of the Gods Font 8b+
Doesn't it get a route grade of F8b+, not a boulder grade?
1
In reply to Goucho:
War and Peace, Craig Doris, I suspect should be a contender, not that I've done it.
jcm
War and Peace, Craig Doris, I suspect should be a contender, not that I've done it.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Isn't Craig Doris vertical Weetabix?
> War and Peace, Craig Doris, I suspect should be a contender, not that I've done it.
> jcm
Isn't Craig Doris vertical Weetabix?
1
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
Sorry, typed without thinking F8b+ !
> Doesn't it get a route grade of F8b+, not a boulder grade?
Sorry, typed without thinking F8b+ !
5
In reply to Goucho:
Not sure quite how they rate overall but two I've enjoyed are the Swanage Traverse of the Gods and Explosure Exposion
Not sure quite how they rate overall but two I've enjoyed are the Swanage Traverse of the Gods and Explosure Exposion
In reply to Goucho:
I've enjoyed a few sea cliff traverses from one bay to another. Not in the guide book though. Just set off and see how far you get, using gear for aid for short sections from time to time.
I've enjoyed a few sea cliff traverses from one bay to another. Not in the guide book though. Just set off and see how far you get, using gear for aid for short sections from time to time.
1
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Went to do that one day with Ian Parnell. Stashed food and water at various points to try for a continuous, one-day attempt.
About 2 pitches in it pissed down and we never made it back. Shame as it looks terrifically terrible.
> War and Peace, Craig Doris, I suspect should be a contender, not that I've done it.
Went to do that one day with Ian Parnell. Stashed food and water at various points to try for a continuous, one-day attempt.
About 2 pitches in it pissed down and we never made it back. Shame as it looks terrifically terrible.
1
In reply to Goucho:
Didn't David Coley traverse the whole coast of Dorset or something? Perhaps he'll be along in a minute.
Didn't David Coley traverse the whole coast of Dorset or something? Perhaps he'll be along in a minute.
In reply to Goucho:
Black and White Traverse, Dovestones Lower Left, might not be high in the grades but I remember it as my first multi-pitch route while I was revising for O levels and I'm pleased to see it still gets a couple of stars.
Black and White Traverse, Dovestones Lower Left, might not be high in the grades but I remember it as my first multi-pitch route while I was revising for O levels and I'm pleased to see it still gets a couple of stars.
Hard to beat the awesome traverses under the huge roofs of Underneath the Arches at Pembroke.
In reply to Goucho:
West Buttress Girdle on Cloggy? 1,000 feet of HVS climbing on one of the best crags in Britain. Lots of manky bits but that just adds to its charm.
West Buttress Girdle on Cloggy? 1,000 feet of HVS climbing on one of the best crags in Britain. Lots of manky bits but that just adds to its charm.
In reply to Goucho:
Yes I take your point about repetitive nature of the climbing. Good holds in a wide break below overelap, less for the feet. Same is true for some of the other limestone girdles I did in the girdle phase (Zodiac - before it fell down, Pigs on the wing, Onedin line, Heart of Darkness).
Other contenders for good quality outings - Traverse of the gods (Swanage) and NW girdle Almscliffe
Yes I take your point about repetitive nature of the climbing. Good holds in a wide break below overelap, less for the feet. Same is true for some of the other limestone girdles I did in the girdle phase (Zodiac - before it fell down, Pigs on the wing, Onedin line, Heart of Darkness).
Other contenders for good quality outings - Traverse of the gods (Swanage) and NW girdle Almscliffe
In reply to Goucho:
East Wall Girdle is good because it's a classic traverse line AND a proper girdle.
Burning Giraffe has already had a mention, but also in the Wye Valley Che Guevara at Shorncliffe. Awopbomboolabop at the Yat a good if not classic. There's even one that traverses the Longstone and finishes where it started!
East Wall Girdle is good because it's a classic traverse line AND a proper girdle.
Burning Giraffe has already had a mention, but also in the Wye Valley Che Guevara at Shorncliffe. Awopbomboolabop at the Yat a good if not classic. There's even one that traverses the Longstone and finishes where it started!
In reply to Goucho:
Are there any traverses that do a complete circuit of a rock feature, so you end up back where you started - something like going round a sea stack? It obviously takes a certain type of rock feature, and I can't imagine many suitable venues that aren't sea stacks.
Are there any traverses that do a complete circuit of a rock feature, so you end up back where you started - something like going round a sea stack? It obviously takes a certain type of rock feature, and I can't imagine many suitable venues that aren't sea stacks.
In reply to tony:
Well Alan Moore just mentioned one above on the Longstone, for an undisputed classic though you cannot beat Bog Wall Traverse (none 5c) at Avon, truly the best of British Climbing
Well Alan Moore just mentioned one above on the Longstone, for an undisputed classic though you cannot beat Bog Wall Traverse (none 5c) at Avon, truly the best of British Climbing
1
1
In reply to Goucho:
maybe these should come under the heading of best "loosest" traverse!
High Level Traverse (VS 4c)
Chameleon (XS 6a)
maybe these should come under the heading of best "loosest" traverse!
High Level Traverse (VS 4c)
Chameleon (XS 6a)
In reply to Goucho:
Probably not the best in Britain, but the Angel's Girdle at Wintour's Leap is one of the best VS routes at the crag.
Probably not the best in Britain, but the Angel's Girdle at Wintour's Leap is one of the best VS routes at the crag.
2
In reply to Goucho:
For a fun day start on Pendulum (really only VS) and as soon as you get off this run up the path and do Alcasan ( easy at the book grade) Makes for a great day on the crag, with some wonderful positions and some not too hard moves. Stoney is still the best crag in the UK (apart from the bits polished to death by the boulderers in the minus 10 area!)
I may be biased!
For a fun day start on Pendulum (really only VS) and as soon as you get off this run up the path and do Alcasan ( easy at the book grade) Makes for a great day on the crag, with some wonderful positions and some not too hard moves. Stoney is still the best crag in the UK (apart from the bits polished to death by the boulderers in the minus 10 area!)
I may be biased!
1
In reply to Goucho:
Should have added any traverse of the popular end of Stanage on a bank holiday. How much fun can one have?
Should have added any traverse of the popular end of Stanage on a bank holiday. How much fun can one have?
2
In reply to Goucho:
Definately not the best but maybe one of the craziest and wildest that I've seen is Reasons to Be Fearful (IV) at Hastings. 1250m and 33 pitches of traversing.
I went to look at the route a few years ago with the general plan to possibly goad a partner into climbing it with me another occasion. I got the shakes just looking at it (the clue was in the name). The cliffs were a frightening shambles of clay and crumbly sandstone, which made the cliffs at Dover look positively safe. 'If the clay is wet it is like paste and if it is dry it just falls apart' stated the CC guide. I concluded I would probably die if I ever attempted the route.
Definately not the best but maybe one of the craziest and wildest that I've seen is Reasons to Be Fearful (IV) at Hastings. 1250m and 33 pitches of traversing.
I went to look at the route a few years ago with the general plan to possibly goad a partner into climbing it with me another occasion. I got the shakes just looking at it (the clue was in the name). The cliffs were a frightening shambles of clay and crumbly sandstone, which made the cliffs at Dover look positively safe. 'If the clay is wet it is like paste and if it is dry it just falls apart' stated the CC guide. I concluded I would probably die if I ever attempted the route.
In reply to Goucho:
Lord Of The Rings on Scafell East? I've not done it, been on my tick list for a while but there are very conflicting reports on quality
Lord Of The Rings on Scafell East? I've not done it, been on my tick list for a while but there are very conflicting reports on quality
In reply to airborne:
Speaking of Cilan, has anybody done the girdle of the main crag at the level of the Great Overhang yet?
Speaking of Cilan, has anybody done the girdle of the main crag at the level of the Great Overhang yet?
In reply to Goucho:
There's a huge traverse of the Mull of Galloway cliffs. Don't have details to hand but I think from having a look down there many years ago it could also be extended.
There's a huge traverse of the Mull of Galloway cliffs. Don't have details to hand but I think from having a look down there many years ago it could also be extended.
In reply to airborne:
I've done a fair chunk of this until we got lost in the rain, but what we did was pretty good.
> Lord Of The Rings on Scafell East? I've not done it, been on my tick list for a while but there are very conflicting reports on quality
I've done a fair chunk of this until we got lost in the rain, but what we did was pretty good.
In reply to Al Evans:
Presumably followed by root canal surgery with no anasthetic just to round the day off in style?
> Speaking of Cilan, has anybody done the girdle of the main crag at the level of the Great Overhang yet?
Presumably followed by root canal surgery with no anasthetic just to round the day off in style?
1
In reply to Mr. Lee:
Any esoteric sea cliff with a route that has the first ascentionists as either Mick Fowler or Phil Thornhill, is for individuals who are either tired of living, or carry their testicles around in a dump truck
> Definately not the best but maybe one of the craziest and wildest that I've seen is Reasons to Be Fearful (IV) at Hastings. 1250m and 33 pitches of traversing.
> I went to look at the route a few years ago with the general plan to possibly goad a partner into climbing it with me another occasion. I got the shakes just looking at it (the clue was in the name). The cliffs were a frightening shambles of clay and crumbly sandstone, which made the cliffs at Dover look positively safe. 'If the clay is wet it is like paste and if it is dry it just falls apart' stated the CC guide. I concluded I would probably die if I ever attempted the route.
Any esoteric sea cliff with a route that has the first ascentionists as either Mick Fowler or Phil Thornhill, is for individuals who are either tired of living, or carry their testicles around in a dump truck
Post edited at 21:16
In reply to jcw:
That could be in the same league as the girdle of Hobson Moor Quarry?
> The girdle of no 6 buttress Rocky Valley Ilkley, an esoteric gem!
That could be in the same league as the girdle of Hobson Moor Quarry?
In reply to GrahamD:
I agree, exposure explosion at Ogmore, and also A Bigger Splash at Ogmore - pumpy first pitch, scary second!
I agree, exposure explosion at Ogmore, and also A Bigger Splash at Ogmore - pumpy first pitch, scary second!
In reply to Aaron Lines:
Exposure Explosion is my favourite as well. Thought it more exciting than DOWH. Traversing through the cave was particularly exciting due to it being wet.
Exposure Explosion is my favourite as well. Thought it more exciting than DOWH. Traversing through the cave was particularly exciting due to it being wet.
1
In reply to Mr. Lee:
I remember it well! I don't suppose that cave ever dries out completely. EE has to be up there in any list of girdles, the route feels so much bigger than the 84m it is listed as.
I remember it well! I don't suppose that cave ever dries out completely. EE has to be up there in any list of girdles, the route feels so much bigger than the 84m it is listed as.
In reply to Goucho:
Shocked to see no mention yet of the North West Girdle at Almscliff which is probably the best that Grit has to offer.
A glorious four pitches of spectacular climbing, intimidating positions, lofty belays, and rich history. Very much overlooked, yet definitely the best route I've done at Almscliff bar none. The North West wall at the Cliff is probably the best "buttress" for moderate graded routes in the county and the girdle allows you to savour it and visit all the best positions in one unbeatable outing.
Shocked to see no mention yet of the North West Girdle at Almscliff which is probably the best that Grit has to offer.
A glorious four pitches of spectacular climbing, intimidating positions, lofty belays, and rich history. Very much overlooked, yet definitely the best route I've done at Almscliff bar none. The North West wall at the Cliff is probably the best "buttress" for moderate graded routes in the county and the girdle allows you to savour it and visit all the best positions in one unbeatable outing.
In reply to Goucho:
Gallop Step on Clogwyn Y Bustach, easy for HVS and unique in that you start & finish on the ground !
Gallop Step on Clogwyn Y Bustach, easy for HVS and unique in that you start & finish on the ground !
In reply to Goucho:
surely the girdle of the finest corrie?
surely the girdle of the finest corrie?
In reply to Goucho:
The Pinnacle Girdle (E3 5c) has always been on my "must do" list, ever since reading Chapter 13 of The Black Cliff, but since the last UKC logbook tick is 1984 it seems not to be on many other peoples lists!
The Pinnacle Girdle (E3 5c) has always been on my "must do" list, ever since reading Chapter 13 of The Black Cliff, but since the last UKC logbook tick is 1984 it seems not to be on many other peoples lists!
In reply to Ray Sharples:
It's time for an update and new photos for the Black Cliff, hopefully at a much better standard!
It's time for an update and new photos for the Black Cliff, hopefully at a much better standard!
In reply to Sean Kelly:
True but the writing is still evocative "That night nature celebrated our success with a violent electrical storm and I saw a blue fireball from Ynys but nobody believed me ... Three unforgettable days" -- Jack Soper on the first ascent of the Pinnacle Girdle. I am sure we have all had our unforgettable days on Cloggy ...
True but the writing is still evocative "That night nature celebrated our success with a violent electrical storm and I saw a blue fireball from Ynys but nobody believed me ... Three unforgettable days" -- Jack Soper on the first ascent of the Pinnacle Girdle. I am sure we have all had our unforgettable days on Cloggy ...
In reply to Goucho:
The Missionary-Maze link-up on the Red Walls at Gogarth is hard to beat for all round adventure.
The Missionary-Maze link-up on the Red Walls at Gogarth is hard to beat for all round adventure.
In reply to Tom F Harding:
Yeah there are two: Rainbow Bridge (7a) and Magical Mystery Tour (HVS if you swim past the V12 boulder problem).
Great routes to do with a bunch of friends, ropeless above the glistening sea on a warm sunny day. Did both there on my mate's Stag do. Superb.
> The big deep water solo traverse at berry head maybe?
Yeah there are two: Rainbow Bridge (7a) and Magical Mystery Tour (HVS if you swim past the V12 boulder problem).
Great routes to do with a bunch of friends, ropeless above the glistening sea on a warm sunny day. Did both there on my mate's Stag do. Superb.
In reply to Goucho:
Girdle routes have always been something of a mystery to me! Please tell me why you like them?
Girdle routes have always been something of a mystery to me! Please tell me why you like them?
In reply to Goucho:
Which reminds me the low level girdle of New Mills Torrs, ok but with one ridiculously hard move.
> That could be in the same league as the girdle of Hobson Moor Quarry?
Which reminds me the low level girdle of New Mills Torrs, ok but with one ridiculously hard move.
In reply to Al Evans:
Ah, now I understand Goucho's cross reference, I've looked it up. To me in 1963 it seemed E4 6a. I'll leave Hobson's choice to you youngsters!!
Ah, now I understand Goucho's cross reference, I've looked it up. To me in 1963 it seemed E4 6a. I'll leave Hobson's choice to you youngsters!!
Post edited at 21:47
In reply to Goucho:
I've got to agree with will Hunt about the North West Girdle of Almscliff being probably the finest traverse on Grit. However, on the slightly more esoteric front the Main Wall Girdle at Hetchell has long been a personal favorite of mine. The first ascensionist must have been truly inspired to have created such a masterpiece at such a young age!
I've got to agree with will Hunt about the North West Girdle of Almscliff being probably the finest traverse on Grit. However, on the slightly more esoteric front the Main Wall Girdle at Hetchell has long been a personal favorite of mine. The first ascensionist must have been truly inspired to have created such a masterpiece at such a young age!
Post edited at 13:02
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...