UKC

How are the conditions currently looking for the weekend? Coming up on Fri and hoping to get into twisting and sc gullies,

In reply to paulh.0776:

Hi Paul,

Things are looking good in the Coe, but have a look at Eastern Slant on Far East Buttress, better than Twisting Gully I think. Far more interest, just doesn't quite freeze as readily, but should be good this weekend. SC I'm not sure about, it takes a while to come in, and yesterday's thaw may have affected it, and left a cruddy layer of ice on the main pitch.

In reply to KA:

Thanks for the tip Ken, I'll be up with our club this w/e, so will put it to the committee in the Clachaig on Fri nt..... Could.be up for a trip over tower ridge in a month or so if you're free, I'll be in touch nearer the time.

In reply to paulh.0776:

Anyone got any new news???

In reply to paul:

Significant slough avalanches coming down Twisting on Wednesday, even if it's safe I think you'll be swimming.

In reply to paulh.0776:

Climbed Raeburn's Route yesterday. Approaches and exits were soft and required consideration - a skills group from the local college found a graupel layer underneath wet slab in the snowpack. The normal start to our route appeared to have cruddy ice - the team ahead of us was having difficulty with this. We chose to gain the route from NC Gully and found it well banked out but with gear difficult to find. Other teams were on Dorsal (very snowy-looking) and possibly Chimney Route. It got quite mild in the afternoon and a lot of steeper mixed routes were going out of condition.

Photo here: https://www.facebook.com/glencoeclimbing.co.uk/photos/a.246475548889538.107...

In reply to paulh.0776:

I was in there today with a colleague and we decided the approaches were dangerous, lots of snow has moved around last (Thurs) night. JB's tracks were blown in with medium to firm wind slab and easy shears were happening round our feet. We abseiled into Pinnacle Buttress and got some nice sport. Far Eastern Buttress was largely black.