UKC

Hello there, what should be the best time of year for sport climbing in the UK?
No limitation for the amount of weeks to stay and starting from may?
I travel in a motorhome and try to stay away from the campsites if possible.
Interested in sport climbing 6a to 8a french sport grade.

Please contact me with your advises. Cheers Michel Kleinjan, The Netherlands

In reply to GoodClimbing:

Summer is the best time I would say but you could still get washed out. Any time from the end of May until Sept would be your best bet. Sport climbing get here is okay but not really worth travelling for. Our trad climbing is where it's at....give it a go!

In reply to GoodClimbing:
As ever our weather is very variable but the best time is normally may or mid September, july and august tend to be wet but if they are nice and sunny it can be pretty hot. Also if you intend to climb in the midlands / yorkshire you could find midgies a problem. However the sport climbing in the UK is mostly on limestone and they tend not to like that so much. October to May is the best time of year to avoid midgies in general (but they aren't a problem for most the coastal sport climbing)

Portland has a good micro climate for climbing, as it sticks out in to the sea like an island and is often dry (and sunny!) when other places just inland are not.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

They seem to love it in Yorkshire, you'll see plenty of belayers at both Malham and Kilnsey with the nets on their heads, and Troller's Gill can be as worse still.

To the OP, I'd say come to Yorkshire in the summer, if it hot then Kilnsey is in the shade from midday, and if it's cloudy and cool you can go to Malham. If you include Goredale, you've got some of the best, if not the best sport climbing in the UK.

EDIT: I would add, if you want to climb below 7a/+, those crags won't offer much at all.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Well the just heightens the case for coming in May then, when the weather tends to be drier, the temperatures not too hot, and the midgies haven't really got going properly yet.

In reply to GoodClimbing:

The Dorset coast has plenty of limestone routes, some of it is quite polished but gets better quality the higher in the grade. Be expected to be spat off a couple of 6b's at Dancing Ledge! Plenty above 7a, mostly overhanging which start off with technical moves on tiny holds.

The routes in the Dorset Rockfax book run from Swanage to Portland, with Portland being a Southern Sport Climbing Meccah. Swanage has more of a mix of Trad and Sport (bouldering to be had too).

Swanage can be a sun-trap at all times of year (south facing) if the weather is good but does suffer some seepage if it's been wet. In the summer I've never had any issues other than it can get a bit busy at the weekends.

Plenty of places to park up and camp, but the campsites are fairly cheap, quiet and well equipped. Tom's field in Swanage is basic (showers, electric hookup) but well located to most of the Swanage crags. I've only been to Portland a few times, so can't really comment much on the area. It will be difficult to park up for a duration and not be expected to be moved on or pay for parking as most of the area is privately owned or have car parks that you have to pay for.

Depending on how long you stay, the routes would occupy you for a full season I reckon - more than enough to do in a few weeks.

In reply to CurlyStevo:


There's often a breeze at Kilnsey, which can keep them off, Malham's more sheltered, Troller's was the worst and the only one we had to leave due to midges (went to Kilnsey). And the rain often doesn't cause a problem, if you pick the right routes, I climbed at Kilnsey in a thunderstorm which was pretty amazing.

Not sure about May for conditions generally, I only started climbing there last year, from July. The advantage of July/August is longer warmer days (if you want it warmer), even if you've got more chance of midges.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
August is normally a wetter month than May. Depending on your exact location its not unusual for August to be the wettest month of the year and May the driest (see met office stats http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/regional-climates/ne http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/regional-climates/nw ).

Although I can't speak for the Yorkshire crags, for the southern limestone (Swanage, Ansteys, Portland etc) its normally a better temperature for rock climbing in May and the rock is just as likely to be in good condition. Mid may has longer daylight hours than August also.

If the OP is stuck on August / September I would go for September as the start to mid especially often sees dry weather in the UK and is rarely too hot for climbing if it is nice weather.

In reply to jungle:
In terms of location apart from the climbing Yorkshire wins hands down over Portland. Portland is a grubby place, although camping is discouraged on the island (there are no campsites), I imagine you could find somewhere discrete for a motorhome for a few nights. The surrounding Dorset country side is nice, but Yorkshire is nicer.

The most sensible choice is for the OP to highlight a number of areas he want's to visit and then choose which to head for depending on the weather forecast when he is here.

Apart from Yorkshire and Dorset, this area is supposed to be pretty good also
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1003