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Hello,
I'm off to the peak with my boyfriend for the first time, usually climb a lot down south.
Please may you recommend the best places to go for sport climbing and bouldering. Sport climbing in the grade range of 6a+ to 7b and bouldering just a wide range of different grades.
Also if anyone has any recommendations of places to stay nearby that would be great!
Thanks
Post edited at 16:38
In reply to Chloe:
First piece of advice, it's the Peak not the Peaks. It's named after an ancient tribe not the fact that it's full of summits.
Second piece of advice http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Peak%20Index.htm
Have fun
Al
First piece of advice, it's the Peak not the Peaks. It's named after an ancient tribe not the fact that it's full of summits.
Second piece of advice http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Peak%20Index.htm
Have fun
Al
6
13
In reply to Chloe:
At least you won't get flamed now although I might for pointing it out to you.
Don't really know of anywhere to stay although I understand there are bunkhouses around Hathersage as well as numerous B&B's.
Al
At least you won't get flamed now although I might for pointing it out to you.
Don't really know of anywhere to stay although I understand there are bunkhouses around Hathersage as well as numerous B&B's.
Al
In reply to GridNorth:
I once saw a very large roadside poster advertising an event in Hathersage which actually said the peaks, made me think if they can do it it must be ok, wish I'd taken a photo
I once saw a very large roadside poster advertising an event in Hathersage which actually said the peaks, made me think if they can do it it must be ok, wish I'd taken a photo
In reply to riff156:
Lots of locals say "Peaks" now, the die-hard traditionalists are definitely fighting a losing battle over this one. Ho hum. I wonder how many people were annoyed when they first started spelling "Stanedge" wrong.
One thing is for sure though, you're still a lot less likely to get your thread derailed by a 'Peaks' vs 'Peak' discussion on here if you get it right!
To the OP:
The Peak is actually pretty big, do you have a vague plan of where you're heading? East? West? What kind of places to stay do you have in mind? Campsites? Hostels? B&B?
Your question is so open it's actually pretty hard to know where to start, you might get more and better replies if you can make it a bit more specific. Have you tried doing a forum search and browsing through a few older threads?
Not a great destination for sport climbing really, certainly not at the lower end of your grade range anyway. Can't really comment on the upper end, weak tubby punter that I am. There's no shortage of quality bouldering though.
Edit to add another pet peeve now the Peak/Peaks can is open and there are worms all over the floor already: The PDNPA have changed their logo to a millstone with a square hole in the middle. Square!
Lots of locals say "Peaks" now, the die-hard traditionalists are definitely fighting a losing battle over this one. Ho hum. I wonder how many people were annoyed when they first started spelling "Stanedge" wrong.
One thing is for sure though, you're still a lot less likely to get your thread derailed by a 'Peaks' vs 'Peak' discussion on here if you get it right!
To the OP:
The Peak is actually pretty big, do you have a vague plan of where you're heading? East? West? What kind of places to stay do you have in mind? Campsites? Hostels? B&B?
Your question is so open it's actually pretty hard to know where to start, you might get more and better replies if you can make it a bit more specific. Have you tried doing a forum search and browsing through a few older threads?
Not a great destination for sport climbing really, certainly not at the lower end of your grade range anyway. Can't really comment on the upper end, weak tubby punter that I am. There's no shortage of quality bouldering though.
Edit to add another pet peeve now the Peak/Peaks can is open and there are worms all over the floor already: The PDNPA have changed their logo to a millstone with a square hole in the middle. Square!
Post edited at 21:15
2
In reply to Chloe:
Hi Chloe - loads of bouldering at burbage north and south and stanage plantation. Base your self at a b&b around hathersage or north lees campsite about 5 mins by car from hathersage but walkable to stanage.
If you want sport climbing try Harper hill near Buxton or cheadale if it's not seeping.
Best routes are trad all you need are some cams and nuts.
Hi Chloe - loads of bouldering at burbage north and south and stanage plantation. Base your self at a b&b around hathersage or north lees campsite about 5 mins by car from hathersage but walkable to stanage.
If you want sport climbing try Harper hill near Buxton or cheadale if it's not seeping.
Best routes are trad all you need are some cams and nuts.
1
In reply to Offwidth:
No idea. Seems feasible.
No idea. Seems feasible.
In reply to Chloe:
I would be intrested to see if you got more constructive advice if you changed the thread title to peak, considering the number of peak locals who seem to be regulars on here. I used to have three a four trips to the peak every year but that's probably one or two now.
Accommodation - the peak is realativly small , so if you have car it doesn't really matter where you stay as the climbing won't be much of a drive, fair does if you know exactly where you want to climb then stay near there, otherwise somewhere central. IMHO nothing in the peak ticks all the boxes for us . We now almost always camp at pindale farm just outside hope . It's , OK but the main advantage is its walking distance to a few pubs , most of which are unremarkable , the cheddar cheese is good but primarily a food pub . Also there is a cheap and cheerful curry house in hope thAt allows BYO and a shop nearby that sells grog. If the weather is pants pindale have a bunkhouse , again its just ok , but better than camping if the weather is less than jolly. The other popular option to camp is north lees , which is a good camp site , very close to stanedge . The downside , for us, is that it's a long walk to the pub . It's strange that knowbody body hasn't figured out that there is a call for more accommodation options in or near Hathersage . ( btw I'd be very happy to hear of any ) my OH stayed at the yha once and said it was , you guessed it , ok .
Bouldering - more bouldering of all grades than you can shake a stick at . The obvious choices for a first visit and for sheer volume at all grades are Burbage north and south and stanedge plantation . But I think a local should be able to give you a much better answer and hopefully a "must do " itinerary .
Sport - below 7b the sport climbing in the peak is , in my very humble opinion , poor . There is no one venue with a good collection of quality routes at say 5->6 , 6a ->6b , 6b -> 6c . There are the odd good routes here and there but most of the venues are dingy damp holes in the ground that smell of death and decay . Horse shoe quarry is one such,. Much as above I await a local to contradict this and give you a bit of an itinerary .
Final bit of advice , the trad climbing in the peak is some of the best in the world , why not give it a go ? If the answer is that you have no interest , well that's fine .
Hope this gets a bit more useful advice forthcoming .
Edit: apologies to sdavies , I ve just realised your reply is similar mine , just more concise .
I would be intrested to see if you got more constructive advice if you changed the thread title to peak, considering the number of peak locals who seem to be regulars on here. I used to have three a four trips to the peak every year but that's probably one or two now.
Accommodation - the peak is realativly small , so if you have car it doesn't really matter where you stay as the climbing won't be much of a drive, fair does if you know exactly where you want to climb then stay near there, otherwise somewhere central. IMHO nothing in the peak ticks all the boxes for us . We now almost always camp at pindale farm just outside hope . It's , OK but the main advantage is its walking distance to a few pubs , most of which are unremarkable , the cheddar cheese is good but primarily a food pub . Also there is a cheap and cheerful curry house in hope thAt allows BYO and a shop nearby that sells grog. If the weather is pants pindale have a bunkhouse , again its just ok , but better than camping if the weather is less than jolly. The other popular option to camp is north lees , which is a good camp site , very close to stanedge . The downside , for us, is that it's a long walk to the pub . It's strange that knowbody body hasn't figured out that there is a call for more accommodation options in or near Hathersage . ( btw I'd be very happy to hear of any ) my OH stayed at the yha once and said it was , you guessed it , ok .
Bouldering - more bouldering of all grades than you can shake a stick at . The obvious choices for a first visit and for sheer volume at all grades are Burbage north and south and stanedge plantation . But I think a local should be able to give you a much better answer and hopefully a "must do " itinerary .
Sport - below 7b the sport climbing in the peak is , in my very humble opinion , poor . There is no one venue with a good collection of quality routes at say 5->6 , 6a ->6b , 6b -> 6c . There are the odd good routes here and there but most of the venues are dingy damp holes in the ground that smell of death and decay . Horse shoe quarry is one such,. Much as above I await a local to contradict this and give you a bit of an itinerary .
Final bit of advice , the trad climbing in the peak is some of the best in the world , why not give it a go ? If the answer is that you have no interest , well that's fine .
Hope this gets a bit more useful advice forthcoming .
Edit: apologies to sdavies , I ve just realised your reply is similar mine , just more concise .
Post edited at 10:59
2
In reply to mike123:
The must do lists are in the dedicated bouldering guides and the BMC definitives... all excellent and well worth the cover price. Bad weather accommodation options are not really needed... best not to travel for climbing if the weather looks bad. The definitive link to Gary's sport climbing website was in the first reply. As for the pedant posts it would be nice to see more gentle humour... like that nicely visible on this thread... (its funny how many boring pedant posts often make similar errors and lack reasonable depth of knowledge).
The must do lists are in the dedicated bouldering guides and the BMC definitives... all excellent and well worth the cover price. Bad weather accommodation options are not really needed... best not to travel for climbing if the weather looks bad. The definitive link to Gary's sport climbing website was in the first reply. As for the pedant posts it would be nice to see more gentle humour... like that nicely visible on this thread... (its funny how many boring pedant posts often make similar errors and lack reasonable depth of knowledge).
2
In reply to mike123:
Go to Horseshoe on sunny spring or summer day and it isn't actually unpleasant at all. Look for orchids growing in the Limestone, spot kestrels and I think I saw a peregrine there once too etc etc. The climbing is British quarry limestone which isn't brilliant, but for a 5+-6b sort of punter like myself there are lots to go at. I prefer being up on the Gritstone edges myself on a nice day but if Chloe wants to sport climb, then that's perhaps the most obvious place to start at those grades. Garry Gibson has developed loads more routes in now closed quarries close to Horseshoe too, all since the Rockfax guide I have, so Chloe, check out his website and sneakily print a load of topos and maps off at work when no one is looking and you'll have lots more options!
Can't help with accommodation recommendations as I live local so don't worry about that. I did camp at North Lees many many years ago and its a lovely spot but I guess better suited for people wanting to trad climb at Stanage than anything else, although it would only be 10 or 15 minutes drive around to Stoney and Horseshoe from there.
> Sport - below 7b the sport climbing in the peak is , in my very humble opinion , poor . There is no one venue with a good collection of quality routes at say 5->6 , 6a ->6b , 6b -> 6c . There are the odd good routes here and there but most of the venues are dingy damp holes in the ground that smell of death and decay . Horse shoe quarry is one such,.
Go to Horseshoe on sunny spring or summer day and it isn't actually unpleasant at all. Look for orchids growing in the Limestone, spot kestrels and I think I saw a peregrine there once too etc etc. The climbing is British quarry limestone which isn't brilliant, but for a 5+-6b sort of punter like myself there are lots to go at. I prefer being up on the Gritstone edges myself on a nice day but if Chloe wants to sport climb, then that's perhaps the most obvious place to start at those grades. Garry Gibson has developed loads more routes in now closed quarries close to Horseshoe too, all since the Rockfax guide I have, so Chloe, check out his website and sneakily print a load of topos and maps off at work when no one is looking and you'll have lots more options!
Can't help with accommodation recommendations as I live local so don't worry about that. I did camp at North Lees many many years ago and its a lovely spot but I guess better suited for people wanting to trad climb at Stanage than anything else, although it would only be 10 or 15 minutes drive around to Stoney and Horseshoe from there.
3
In reply to Chloe:
The bulk of sport climbing is at the south end near matlock really.
Horseshoe is the obvious one and the furthest north. Harper hill is similar but gets quite windy and cold.
Near horseshoe there's some routes at stoney garage buttress but they are quite crumbly and the harder routes will change each time you try them, they're that loose! Stoney West is quite sheltered by the trees and a good bet for shelter on a hot day, might be quite cool in spring but the rock is good although the bulk of routes again are in the 6's
Across the road from stoney there's some dirty stuff in Goddards quarry that isn't worth the walk.
The main crags for harder sport are rubicon near water-cum-jolly which also has alot of bouldering on razor sharp crimps if that's your thing (some more hidden bouldering around here at the harder grades but it's delicate access wise due to being in an SSSI)
Also raven tor, very steep, but stays dry in the rain (hard) and loads in chee dale. This last one is the main event really, loads of buttresses spread along an old railway track that's now a tourist path. There's a lovely walk to some of the harder climbs over big stepping stones down a lovely stream.
If I could climb 7b I'd just go a bit further north to Malham, it's a bit more inspiring than anything you'll find in the Peak.
The bulk of sport climbing is at the south end near matlock really.
Horseshoe is the obvious one and the furthest north. Harper hill is similar but gets quite windy and cold.
Near horseshoe there's some routes at stoney garage buttress but they are quite crumbly and the harder routes will change each time you try them, they're that loose! Stoney West is quite sheltered by the trees and a good bet for shelter on a hot day, might be quite cool in spring but the rock is good although the bulk of routes again are in the 6's
Across the road from stoney there's some dirty stuff in Goddards quarry that isn't worth the walk.
The main crags for harder sport are rubicon near water-cum-jolly which also has alot of bouldering on razor sharp crimps if that's your thing (some more hidden bouldering around here at the harder grades but it's delicate access wise due to being in an SSSI)
Also raven tor, very steep, but stays dry in the rain (hard) and loads in chee dale. This last one is the main event really, loads of buttresses spread along an old railway track that's now a tourist path. There's a lovely walk to some of the harder climbs over big stepping stones down a lovely stream.
If I could climb 7b I'd just go a bit further north to Malham, it's a bit more inspiring than anything you'll find in the Peak.
2
2
In reply to mike123:
That's why we like to call The Peaks - big it up a bit
> Accommodation - the peak is relatively small ,
That's why we like to call The Peaks - big it up a bit
5
1
In reply to dr_botnik:
Forgot about smalldale quarry, sits right in your grade range with some quality 6 and 7's, there's also a f5 which is nails for the grade! The walk in feels a bit like trespassing and it's quite muddy walking to the easier routes
Don't even bother with intake quarry.
Forgot about smalldale quarry, sits right in your grade range with some quality 6 and 7's, there's also a f5 which is nails for the grade! The walk in feels a bit like trespassing and it's quite muddy walking to the easier routes
Don't even bother with intake quarry.
In reply to Chloe:
For sport a lot depends on what is dry at the moment.
Places likely to be dry most of the time are Garage Butress, Stoney Middleton. There's a nice 7b there plus lots of easier routes. Secondly and not far from there is Horseshoe Quarry. The Main Face is the best bit and has routes from 6a to 7a. Finally Harpur Hill has two really good 7bs plus lots of routes in the 6s. All these places dry really quickly after rain.
Later in the year when it drys out Masson Lees is a good bet. There are easier sport routes there are a bit short but are quite popular. There are two very good 7bs and lots of good 7as and 7a+s.
For sport a lot depends on what is dry at the moment.
Places likely to be dry most of the time are Garage Butress, Stoney Middleton. There's a nice 7b there plus lots of easier routes. Secondly and not far from there is Horseshoe Quarry. The Main Face is the best bit and has routes from 6a to 7a. Finally Harpur Hill has two really good 7bs plus lots of routes in the 6s. All these places dry really quickly after rain.
Later in the year when it drys out Masson Lees is a good bet. There are easier sport routes there are a bit short but are quite popular. There are two very good 7bs and lots of good 7as and 7a+s.
1
In reply to deepsoup:
Having gone into Shephards' Wheel next to the river Porter, and learnt about water power turning the grinding wheels for the little mesters, I'm wondering how the wheels would have turned without square holes in the them?
> Edit to add another pet peeve now the Peak/Peaks can is open and there are worms all over the floor already: The PDNPA have changed their logo to a millstone with a square hole in the middle. Square!
Having gone into Shephards' Wheel next to the river Porter, and learnt about water power turning the grinding wheels for the little mesters, I'm wondering how the wheels would have turned without square holes in the them?
Post edited at 00:37
In reply to Timmd:
A screw thread on the axle and a clamp, by the look of it:
http://www.postcardcafe.wordpress.com/2015/09/29/shepherd-wheel-workshop/
I'm sure there were mill stones with square holes in the Peak, but the ones we all associate with it have round holes. eg: http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=millstones
I doubt historical accuracy has anything to do with the PDNPA logo though, I bet it's just that some image consultant type thought a stone with a round hole looked too much like a doughnut.
Out of interest, do any of the stones that mark the Peak Park boundary have a square hole?
I don't think I've ever noticed one, all the ones I can picture have either a round hole or no hole at all. (Definitely a round hole on Ringinglow Rd for example.)
> I'm wondering how the wheels would have turned without square holes in the them?
A screw thread on the axle and a clamp, by the look of it:
http://www.postcardcafe.wordpress.com/2015/09/29/shepherd-wheel-workshop/
I'm sure there were mill stones with square holes in the Peak, but the ones we all associate with it have round holes. eg: http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=millstones
I doubt historical accuracy has anything to do with the PDNPA logo though, I bet it's just that some image consultant type thought a stone with a round hole looked too much like a doughnut.
Out of interest, do any of the stones that mark the Peak Park boundary have a square hole?
I don't think I've ever noticed one, all the ones I can picture have either a round hole or no hole at all. (Definitely a round hole on Ringinglow Rd for example.)
Post edited at 07:14
In reply to deepsoup:
You dont see as many but they do exist:
http://www.engr.psu.edu/mtah/photos/photos_millstones.htm
You dont see as many but they do exist:
http://www.engr.psu.edu/mtah/photos/photos_millstones.htm
In reply to Timmd:
I think I m correct in saying that at least some of the 'millstones' used to mark the park boundary on the eastern side of the Peak are actually slices from pillars of a masonic temple in Sheffield,
Chris
I think I m correct in saying that at least some of the 'millstones' used to mark the park boundary on the eastern side of the Peak are actually slices from pillars of a masonic temple in Sheffield,
Chris
In reply to Offwidth:
Exist yes, but represent the Peak District in some way? Nah. (The best examples pictured in the page you linked to are in Worcestershire and Shropshire.)
Possibly not all, but the vast majority of Peak stones have round holes.
I just stumbled across some interesting stuff about Peak District stones (or, ahem, 'Peaks') here: http://www.peakscan.freeuk.com/geology.htm
Exist yes, but represent the Peak District in some way? Nah. (The best examples pictured in the page you linked to are in Worcestershire and Shropshire.)
Possibly not all, but the vast majority of Peak stones have round holes.
I just stumbled across some interesting stuff about Peak District stones (or, ahem, 'Peaks') here: http://www.peakscan.freeuk.com/geology.htm
In reply to Chris Craggs:
That's interesting. It would certainly explain the lack of a hole. And, come to think of it, the shape of many of them does seem a bit 'wrong' - a touch too fat.
It would have to have been a rather grand building that was demolished I imagine, any idea where it was?
That's interesting. It would certainly explain the lack of a hole. And, come to think of it, the shape of many of them does seem a bit 'wrong' - a touch too fat.
It would have to have been a rather grand building that was demolished I imagine, any idea where it was?
In reply to deepsoup:
It was told to me by Dave Gregory (who knows his local history) many years ago. Sadly I can't recall if he told me where the original building was.
On a vaguely related tack Shepherd's Wheel (an old grinding/sharpening mill) was open to visitors yesterday - very interesting:
http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/162774750
http://www.pbase.com/image/162774748/original
Chris
> That's interesting. It would certainly explain the lack of a hole. And, come to think of it, the shape of many of them does seem a bit 'wrong' - a touch too fat.
> It would have to have been a rather grand building that was demolished I imagine, any idea where it was?
It was told to me by Dave Gregory (who knows his local history) many years ago. Sadly I can't recall if he told me where the original building was.
On a vaguely related tack Shepherd's Wheel (an old grinding/sharpening mill) was open to visitors yesterday - very interesting:
http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/162774750
http://www.pbase.com/image/162774748/original
Chris
In reply to Chloe:
For sport climbing Horsehoe quarry and check out the Peak Limestone guide book. However, if you're going to the peak I'd focus on trad and bouldering.
Stagnage for trad and Burbage for bouldering, I'd say. As the Peak Bouldering guide says "climbers that are board of Burbage are board of climbing". Highly recommend you get the Peak District Bouldering guide to make the most of your trip.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1906148279?psc=1&redirect=true&r...
Enjoy your trip!
For sport climbing Horsehoe quarry and check out the Peak Limestone guide book. However, if you're going to the peak I'd focus on trad and bouldering.
Stagnage for trad and Burbage for bouldering, I'd say. As the Peak Bouldering guide says "climbers that are board of Burbage are board of climbing". Highly recommend you get the Peak District Bouldering guide to make the most of your trip.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1906148279?psc=1&redirect=true&r...
Enjoy your trip!
1
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Nice pics.
I wouldn't have fancied sitting astride one of those stones, never quite knowing if it might burst.
Nice pics.
I wouldn't have fancied sitting astride one of those stones, never quite knowing if it might burst.
In reply to deepsoup:
The guy there pointed out that was probably the source of 'nose to the grindstone'
Chris
The guy there pointed out that was probably the source of 'nose to the grindstone'
Chris
In reply to boxmonkey_tv:
Stagnage... a lovely new word with positively Freudian sounding undertones from male rutting through to practices frozen in time.
Stagnage... a lovely new word with positively Freudian sounding undertones from male rutting through to practices frozen in time.
In reply to mike123:
I tried to edit the post again to change the title but I couldn't work out how to. I edited it once, then the 'edit' button was no longer there, don't know if you can only edit once?
Thanks for the advice
I tried to edit the post again to change the title but I couldn't work out how to. I edited it once, then the 'edit' button was no longer there, don't know if you can only edit once?
Thanks for the advice
In reply to deepsoup:
That's really interesting, thanks for the links, that could explain why some stones have a little groove on either side of the hole, so that something keys into the stone before the plates are tightened up on either side of it.
There's always something new to learn...
That's really interesting, thanks for the links, that could explain why some stones have a little groove on either side of the hole, so that something keys into the stone before the plates are tightened up on either side of it.
There's always something new to learn...
In reply to deepsoup:
What struck me when looking into it at school was how it was a step forward in health and safety to have the natural stones and the synthetic stones in different rooms so that not all the workers suffered from breathing in the dust from the synthetic stones, it took quite a lot of pressure from the grinders for that to become standard practice in the work places.
> Nice pics.
> I wouldn't have fancied sitting astride one of those stones, never quite knowing if it might burst.
What struck me when looking into it at school was how it was a step forward in health and safety to have the natural stones and the synthetic stones in different rooms so that not all the workers suffered from breathing in the dust from the synthetic stones, it took quite a lot of pressure from the grinders for that to become standard practice in the work places.
Post edited at 20:08
In reply to Chloe:
Autocorrect on my phone kept changing Burbage as well, didn't notice it had changed Stanage too!
Autocorrect on my phone kept changing Burbage as well, didn't notice it had changed Stanage too!
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