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Recommend me a climbing challenge for Bumblies please

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My friend and I aren't working at the moment and probably won't be for a while. We haven't climbed much recently but when we did, we could generally fight our way up a HVS. We'd like to set ourselves a climbing challenge to work through, probably going away for a few days at a time, in the UK. We both live in the Midlands and have transport.

One suggestion was to climb all of Classic Rock within a year. I'm loathe to add to the polish and traffic on honeypot routes, and it's all a bit "ticklist". Any suggestions? The more imaginative, esoteric, arbitrary or silly the better.
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

One climb on every gritstone crag or quarry in the country? They aren't all in the Peak district, Yorkshire or Lancashire either...

T.
 climber34neil 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

How about climbing all the free standing pinnacles that are in land then moving on to sea stacks after eg rivlin needle, Froggatt pinnacle etc?
 tehmarks 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

How about seeking out all of the 'caving expedition' type routes that are about? I'm sure there's a Peak guidebook with a list of those on the grit, but I can't remember which guidebook it is.
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

A climb on every different rock type found in the UK? Chalk might be fun...

...afterwards.

T.
 Mark Collins 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

What about the first climb mentioned in every section of "OTHER WORTHWHILE CLIMBS" within Classic Rock, hopefully they'll be less polished at least. For example, first route is Promised Land on Foinaven. I'm psyched already, pity I have to work, ah well maybe one day...
In reply to tehmarks:

> How about seeking out all of the 'caving expedition' type routes that are about? I'm sure there's a Peak guidebook with a list of those on the grit, but I can't remember which guidebook it is.

Thanks. Unfortunately we're not racing snakes. I struggled to get my shoulders through Cave Climb at Chatsworth. And my gut.
 Greasy Prusiks 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

How about one climb for every year of your age?
 summo 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Variety; Try to climb on a different crag, rock type, location every time you head off. Repeat nothing you've ever done before. You'll meet less polish, less people, rarely queue and discover hundreds of un-starred gems..
 seankenny 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

> My friend and I aren't working at the moment and probably won't be for a while. We haven't climbed much recently but when we did, we could generally fight our way up a HVS. We'd like to set ourselves a climbing challenge to work through,

Why don't you try pushing to E1? That would be a challenge and usually one that's kinda fun.
1
 tehmarks 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:
I may have been responsible on a few occasions for deliberately getting people stuck; once on Telescope Tunnel at Birchen, and most recently yesterday in the chimney at the top of Gardener's Pleasure at Rivelin. I apparently have a wicked sense of humour.

(In other words, my suggestions are often not to be trusted)
Post edited at 19:54
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

An alphabet of climbs, one beginning with each letter?

T.
 WildCamper 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Climb a vertical mile?
 mark20 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:
Not long term challenges but for things to do in a day, I've done
All the routes up to VDiff in the Burbage Valley in a day
All the routes up to VDiff along Froggatt & Curbar in a day (quite easy)

Stanage would be good but took my mate a couple of days

I also remember reading on here that some one (Dan Arkle maybe) climbed on 10 different rock types in a day. That was around North Wales, but I have worked out that you can do it in the Peak / Leicestershire too
 Mick Ward 20 Mar 2016
In reply to seankenny:

> Why don't you try pushing to E1?

As I scrolled down, that's exactly what I was thinking. Your first Extreme is, well, something special...

Mick
 d_b 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Are there any types of climbing you never got around to?

e.g. I had never done anything on a sea cliff until I moved to Bristol, and it was a real revelation. I know some people who are perfectly good technical climbers who have never done a mountain multi pitch etc.
 wilkie14c 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

This should get you some mileage over 2 or 3 days. I've actually done them all but not updated log book in yonks
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=266
 TobyA 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

If you can climb HVS, how about the Stanage VS Challenge in a day? http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=437 I only did a few HVSs last year, so am a VS punter really, and tried it last summer http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/the-stanage-vs-challenge-tw... We got rained off after 24 routes (actually 25 but one was a wrong one climbed by mistake). I found it hard work but reckon I could do all in a day, I might need a strong mate (fortunately who I had last time) to lead any tricky ones towards the end though!
 Kevster 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Chalk.
aid climbing.
dry tooling.

If you survive that lot, then maybe retire to the pub with a fist full of stories. Especially if you manage it all on the grit in a day. Video footage evidence please.
 d_b 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Kevster:

Aren't the second two implied by the first?
 Andes 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Your birthday climbs. Find a route that has a first ascent on the day you were born and go climb it. I got the Girdle Traverse of Coire Sputan Dearg.....
 Kevster 20 Mar 2016
In reply to davidbeynon:

The chalk I've done, though only 4 pitches, I wouldn't want to weight the gear!
 d_b 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Kevster:

Good point.
 Nez 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

the almscliff pre 1912 challenge is worth doing. takes you to parts of the crag you would normally avoid.
 Bulls Crack 20 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Or maybe just routes you like the look of in great places? Usually does it for me!
 deacondeacon 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

How about climbing an auto-belay route at every wall in the country.
1
 Big Ger 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

A climb in every county in England, (which has a crag!)
In reply to everyone:

Great suggestions thanks everyone.

 Puppythedog 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

A how many metres of climbing can you do at Winters leap challenge. One day, with routes like Neibleheim [sic and sorry John] and right hand route etc well with grade you'd have options and you wanted to push you could try Erda or the one next to it at E1.
 Michael Gordon 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

The Classic Rock plan sounds as good as any to be honest. Gets you all over the country, you can go wherever depending on weather (prioritise mountain and NW areas when dry) and these routes are in there (the book) for a reason. But I do like the birthday climbs idea.
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Would it be doable to climb easier routes of first ascensionists like Brown, Whillans, Patey etc? Or is my grade too low at HVS?
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Just answered my own question about first ascensionists by playing with the Rockfax database.
 jkarran 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

All the Almscliff VS's http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1239 . No more or less arbitrary than any other ticklist but it does take in some great and varied routes with remarkably few duds/sandbags and it's doable in a morning or over a weekend if you prefer a more relaxed pace.
jk
 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

In 1992 I climbed Eagle's Nest Ridge on the 100th anniversary of it's first ascent, and wondered if I might make a habit of century climbs. However, I missed the anniversaries of Botterill's and CB, which would have been worthwhile, and it never went any further. Trouble with this plan, of course, is weather. I remember sweeping snow off some of the holds on ENR.
In reply to Rog Wilko:

Thanks. Interesting idea. Is there an easy way to find first ascent dates without owning a guide to every area of the UK?
 scott titt 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

How about Ivan's100 best VS routes http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=52 there are another 100 if you do all those!
 Jim Walton 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

The Alphabet Routes routes on Gimmer is nice - if you are climbing well then its quite nice to get them all done in a day.

The 1989 VS Challenge of Stanage is a good work out, either in a day or a weekend. I did a write up of it on UKC, here is a link t the write up on my blog. http://www.jimwaltonmia.com/#!The-1989-Stanage-VS-Challenge/s7ijl/56c204e50...

 SGD 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:
How about climbing a VS in every County in England and Wales (where there is a VS climb) in a season?
Post edited at 11:28
 The Ivanator 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

All a bit "ticklist", but at least they are not classic rock and they will take you to all corners of our isles:
Easygoing option (best HS routes):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=381
Bit more challenging ...plus you'll be running the gauntlet with Overhanging Bastion (HVS 5a)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=52
The discover bolts option:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1381
 SenzuBean 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

A "crack taster day"(don't say that out aloud in the presence of non-climbers!) - climb a finger crack, hand crack, fist crack, offwidth, squeeze chimney, bridge chimney. Could extend by adding thin fingers, fat fingers/thin hands, fat hands/thin fist.

Climb as many no-handhold routes (palming for balance okay) as you can in a day. Obviously an area with many slab routes would be required for best effect.

Another good challenge is the gritstone gallop - climb one route at each major grit crag in the Peak, walking between each crag, finishing where you start. Your grade for the day is the lowest grade climb of the day. i.e. if you did 18 Severes and 1 VDiff, you did the challenge at VDiff standard. I think the shortest walking route that takes in all the crags is about 26 miles.

 Michael Gordon 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

> Would it be doable to climb easier routes of first ascensionists like Brown, Whillans, Patey etc? Or is my grade too low at HVS?

Have another look at Classic Rock. Squareface and Cioch Nose (for example) are Patey and go at v-diff. Old Man of Stoer goes at VS.

Centurion is in Hard Rock but still goes at HVS.
 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Another idea - hasn't been mentioned yet, unless I missed it - is to do all the routes in Tim Noble's Great VS Climbs in the Lake District. In case you don't know the book, he lumped the routes into chapters, which could (!) be each done in a day. There are some pretty tough days there, I'd say, so if you took on and achieved that challenge it would be pretty satisfying, I reckon. I believe there's a ticklist for the routes on UKC. I seem to remember the Langdale chapter being particularly daunting - I might just be able to do it in 4 consecutive days at my current age!
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Thanks. Another interesting one. I've not seen that book. I found the list here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=133

Edit: I found a copy of the book for £2.99, so worth a punt.
Post edited at 14:41
 nniff 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Do a series of routes of a type, with the type being determined by the route name, i.e. anything with 'Corner', Groove', Flake, 'Wall' , Eliminate, 'Crack' or 'Arete' etc in it. there's quite a few to go at - pick a category and off you go....
 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

> Thanks. Interesting idea. Is there an easy way to find first ascent dates without owning a guide to every area of the UK?

Probably not - but every guide in UK is probably owned by someone who haunts this site, so you could ask for recommendations.
 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:



> Edit: I found a copy of the book for £2.99, so worth a punt.

It's a bargain - buy it. It's a very good read and inspires. If you like something written in good English with literary references - Tim was an English teacher I believe - you'll enjoy.
 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

> Thanks. Another interesting one. I've not seen that book. I found the list here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=133

Incidentally, I notice no-one subscribed has completed the list. Not wishing to boast, but I've done 78.6% of them to date - who can beat that?

 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> In 1992 I climbed Eagle's Nest Ridge on the 100th anniversary of it's first ascent,

Of course, that was meant to be Eagles Nest Ridge Direct, which I believe (probably wrongly and this may provoke) is the earliest route in the country which has a VS (albeit Mild VS) grade in current guidebooks. One of the fascinating things about the first ascent was that the four who did it agreed to keep quiet about it because they didn't want others to try it and get killed! Not much of that attitude around today.
 3leggeddog 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I looked into doing a centenary challenge a couple of years ago inspired by the 100 year anniversary of CB and Troutdale pinnacle. However due to political events 100 years ago, these are quite thin on the ground for the next few years!

100 stars in a day/week/month/season/year is an achievable challenge for most.
Removed User 21 Mar 2016
In reply to tehmarks:

More info on this? Got the book name?
 Offwidth 21 Mar 2016
In reply to mark20:

You are also fit and have climbed bloody hard... such a ticklist would be seriously tough for someone who 'can fight up HVS'. There can be real conditions issues for obscure routes (a dirty and damp VD may as well be a clean Stanage HVS in terms of effort) and group issues on popular areas.

For example, I just about managed 100 routes solo in a day on Stanage that I knew and I won't be far from the OP in terms of ability (and I sneaked in quite a few short severes rather than some nasty plantation routes that were nominally easier).

Did you really do all routes at those grades on Froggatt, Curbar or just all the ones with numbers in the BMC guide?
1
 Rog Wilko 21 Mar 2016
In reply to 3leggeddog:
> I looked into doing a centenary challenge a couple of years ago inspired by the 100 year anniversary of CB and Troutdale pinnacle. However due to political events 100 years ago, these are quite thin on the ground for the next few years!

Yes, I hadn't thought of that!
Post edited at 16:22
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

I'll be a bit boring but a bit pragmatic

Write a list of destinations for a weekend based on the lists above. Then come up with a tick list of routes at that destinations. Aim for 10 to 20 weekend challenges listed. Then work your way through these

For example how about a Gogarth weekend. This must include Dream of White horses and a stared VS at Castell Helen

So its not so much a physical challenge as set of plans to inspire you. You could ask on here for other suggestions.

You can choose which plan to use based on fitness and weather.
 mark20 21 Mar 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

We climbed all the numbered routes and anything described in the text, up to and including VDiff. Actually you are probably right in that there are some filthy chimney horror shows (Burbage Quarries spring to mind), but Froggatt-Curbar was fine. There are plenty of surprising gems along the way too.
 Ann S 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Set yourself a real challenge and climb routes which are specifically traverses or girdle routes or routes which have a significant traverse pitch. The challenge will be to see if your climbing partnership survives to the end of the list.

White Ghyll traverse and Haste Not in the Lakes, Heart of Darkness in Pembroke, East wall girdle in Idwal will all go in your grade range and folk on here can all chip in other recommendations. Whatever you do, have a great time.
 3leggeddog 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

Buy a Scottish climbing calendar, then climb a route on the featured crag in that month.
 tehmarks 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

That's exactly what I was thinking of.
 alasdair19 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Ann S:
east wall girdle is an excellent suggestion. since you'll be climbing a lot you can build up to the crazy girdle of Dinas cromlech...

the stanage vs challenge is a particularly interesting list as at vs in 1989 classic is conflated with bizarre and memorable. footless traversing is a favourite and over represented feature.

try and think of a good local challenge as it's easy for things to degenerate into driving epics.
Post edited at 08:18
 Offwidth 22 Mar 2016
In reply to alasdair19:

The Stanage '89 VS challenge is way too hard for what the OP requested. You need to be solid at low extreme for the sandbags and pretty climbing fit even for a 2 day attempt.
1
 Iain Thow 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

This is excellent fun, but definitely gets harder. I do "climb my age in a day " every year, up to 57 so far.
 Iain Thow 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:

As a really long term project (a lifetime!) try and do at least one climb for every day of the calendar year (including Feb 29th, of course). I've been stuck at 365 for the last 3 years as I always seem to be out of the country or otherwise unable to climb on July 24th. Completely silly game, of course, but aren't they all? Have fun whatever your challenge, and when you've done it think of another one.
In reply to all:

Thanks everyone for a really helpful response. I was almost disappointed that it didn't turn into an argument.

Working through the Tim Noble book is probably our favourite at the moment.
 Asher Collins 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Iain Thow:

I just had my first go at this last weekend to celebrate my birthday. 20 pitches in a day from v diff to e1, a really great day out! It feels worryingly addictive, I'm already looking forward to next year.

Well done on getting to 57! I'll be very pleased if I can manage that.
 Iain Thow 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Asher Collins:

Definitely is addictive, and lots of fun guaranteed! Enjoy it.
 The Ivanator 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Turdus torquatus:
A list themed round your user name? A few to get you started:
Turd in the Hole (HS 4b)
Fossil Turd (HVS 5b)
The Gilded Turd (HVS 4c)
Turd Compressor (HVS 5a)
Of course extending your interpretation could give you:
Shit Happens, Actually (6a)
Cuff's Crap (VS 4c)
...and many others.
 Asher Collins 22 Mar 2016
In reply to Iain Thow:

Definitely. Thanks, you too.

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