UKC

Only at a wall can you been making a 4+ look hard, and some self promoting arse young member of staff will start gobbing off, what you need to do is put your left foot where your left hand is...

Well yes motherb*tch I can see that.

Any one got a good come back response?

In reply to zimpara:
**ck off
that usually works

In reply to zimpara:

For me this is what makes bouldering fun. It becomes social and everyones working together on a problem, you make friends and get better as a climber.

On roped routes it's just unacceptable and you should respond by ruining the ending to every TV series they ever watch.

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Roped up.
Don't mind on boldering as it's a good crack generally

In reply to zimpara:

Try 'That makes it too easy, routes here are so over-graded I need to set my own challenges!'

In reply to zimpara:

"Josh is fat" usually gets the job done.

In reply to zimpara:

"If I wanted help, I'd use a ladder."

In reply to zimpara:

Try a bit harder so you are not struggling on a 4+??

In reply to maybe_si:

Nice

In reply to zimpara:

"Funny, that's almost exactly what your girlfriend said."

In reply to zimpara:


Do a bat hang off the jugs on the 4+ and while hanging upside down from your feet cup your ears with your hands and say 'Sorry, didn't catch that, where does my left foot go next?'

This is only a good come back if you can do bat hangs. Otherwise it won't help at all.

In reply to zimpara:

I wish somebody would tell me what to do on my current boulder project. I've never even seen anybody else on it (I appreciate that this in itself may be a bad sign).

In reply to zimpara:

Some climbers sharing the same belay (but on a climb next to ours) started to talk me up the pitch move by move once. I said, come on, you know it's part of the fun to work it out yourself, please give me a chance. They were like, ok, sorry. Then of course 3 moves later I was stuck and asked 'is it ok for me to ask for help now?' but they just laughed at me by then.

In reply to zimpara:

Make sure you are low down when you encounter problems, invite the pest over to actually point to the sequence/holds then clumsily stomp on their fingers - bingo! No more unwanted beta from that source.

In reply to zimpara:

It must a bit miserable working at the wall. I assume that is why they set out to humiliate me. My greatest joy was just scrapping through the belay test. Then being asked how old my harness. I lied and said 12 years (I think it was 18 years old). They said I couldn't use it and lent me one of theirs. I wanted to get my phone out and show them a picture of me on a proper route and scream i use to really do this stuff. But I just slunk off and even bought a new harness.

Turns out that the old harness will be stronger as it was 25mm webbing

I also enjoyed the lecture they gave my son on belaying where he was told to step forward to give rapid slack for a clip. Yer that works when your tied to to a 45kg bag of sand

But they make nice coffee, set good routes and sometimes even smile at me now so all is forgiven

In reply to zimpara:
I usually state politely that I enjoy working out the beta myself, has always worked for me. Probably harder to get this across politely whilst shouting down from a route.

I sometimes slip up on this myself when I'm excited with the quirky beta I've come up with and want to share it but always try to remember how annoyed I'd be if someone ruined my chances of coming up with my own beta. If I think someone is struggling and getting frustrated, I'll usually say that I've got some good beta for it and for them to give me a shout if they want it.

You always seem to get that one guy who follows around you at the wall when you're trying out a new circuit waiting to shout his beta at you, I try to avoid eye contact with them (this will be the same guy following the hot woman around the wall to do the same)!

In reply to zimpara:

I make them look stupid by following their beta but falling off on the very next move. I do this when people don't give me beta as well, but they don't know that.

In reply to AlanLittle:


"Make vertical progress using hands and feet!"













Thank you SimonCRMC
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=637845&v=1#x8272189

In reply to zimpara:

An interesting recent article about just this: Even Good Beta Spray is Bad Beta Spray

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2016/3/2/even-good-beta-spray-is-b...

In reply to John Clinch (Ampthill):
Old harnesses can be dangerous. The webbing losses huge amounts of strength if any section has had extensive full width UV exposure or surface damage from being rubbed across rough rock. The former problem is well known by anyone who has snapped a bunch of old sun-bleached sling ab tat with their hands (please use cord)

A telling demonstation was done at our BMC peak area. A new sling was cut half through across its width and another new one rubbed heavily on a rough rock for a few seconds (until it looked like the minor furryness you get on a well used rack). Both were tested to destruction. Guess which broke first?

I've met a few climbers in their 70s whom if they ever took a lead fall on their manky old harness could be in serious trouble.

In reply to Offwidth:

This article is well worth a read. Notice that the old harnesses were on average stronger

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/busted

What your post says is that if a harness shows signs of wear it will be weaker. My harness didn't show any signs of wear, it was simply old. My knew harness has thinner webbing so will be weaker.

I would love to see the cut verses rub demo some time

PS i do get the whole wall it rigid rules thing really. In a society that is ever more litigious we are lucky that walls exist at all

In reply to John Clinch (Ampthill):

From the article:

"In the CE test, components failed on several harnesses that did not show previous visible damage. Even though a harness component may look acceptable, it may be the weakest link in the rig."

"However, the older a harness, the greater the potential for degradation of structural components such as buckles, threading and webbing."

"As expected, the more days a harness had been used, the lower the average breaking strength of both belay loop and leg loop tie-in point."

"Harnesses that are used more outdoors tend to have lower belay- and leg-loop strength than indoor harnesses, likely due to the abrasive nature of the outdoor climbing environment, exposure to UV and dirt."

In other words, it doesn't matter if thick webbing is stronger than thinner webbing, or if it doesn't show signs of wear -- a harness you've been using regularly for 18 years, especially if a lot of that's been outdoors, is potentially going to be very seriously weakened.

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:


Not for everyone though - I like to work it out for myself or occasionally with a mate.