UKC

where do you start NE Buttress on the Ben

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 nicjbuk 11 Apr 2016
Assuming slingsby chimney is out of condition, where do you find the approach to the first platform to get started on the NE Buttress? Is it readily obvious or do you just pick a bit of a line to traverse up the ridge working from left to right?
Any info greatly appreciated.
Cheers
 Sophie G. 11 Apr 2016
In reply to nicjbuk:

Walk up leftwards as if you were heading for the Cresta Face, get above the initial rock barrier, then traverse rightwards on steep snow. It's fairly clear where to go on this shot--start at x = 20%, y = 25%

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ixcq5kgXDl0/UUc_ZMrqU5I/AAAAAAAADao/FTszVQlkvHA/s...

(...at least, that's what we did, and it worked)
 DundeeDave 11 Apr 2016
In reply to Sophie G.:

Nice Picture
OP nicjbuk 11 Apr 2016
In reply to Sophie G.:

Cheers, will hopefully give it a go Thursday
 Sophie G. 11 Apr 2016
In reply to DundeeDave:
Thanks. Not mine, unfortunately! Jamie Hagerman's.
Post edited at 12:23
 Euge 12 Apr 2016
In reply to nicjbuk:

Head up Coire Leis (sp?) until about 900m elevation (handy if you have an altimeter), then start traversing.

Hope this helps.
Euge
 Sean Kelly 12 Apr 2016
In reply to nicjbuk:

Throw away the guidebook. Walk up to the Ben North Face and pick a line that looks both good and doable. Much the same way as the pioneers did all those years ago with only one straight axe, only nailed boots on their feet and hemp tied around the waist. I do bemoan the amount of gear that people take on the hills today. Some sacs can hardly be lifted off the ground. Their should be an amount of uncertainty in any given venture, or should that be adventure?
3
In reply to Sean Kelly:

> Throw away the guidebook. Walk up to the Ben North Face and pick a line that looks both good and doable. Much the same way as the pioneers did all those years ago with only one straight axe, only nailed boots on their feet and hemp tied around the waist. I do bemoan the amount of gear that people take on the hills today. Some sacs can hardly be lifted off the ground. Their should be an amount of uncertainty in any given venture, or should that be adventure?

You do it your way, let others do it theirs. I'm sure you've done many routes with the use of a guidebook and no routes with hemp rope around your waist.
1
 Sophie G. 13 Apr 2016
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Or possibly: "throw away the guidebook, and try and find somewhere where hardly anyone has ever been before, or if they have they didn't bother recording it."

Works for me

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