UKC

Franco Cookson has made the first ascent of a stunning highball line at Stoupe Brow in North Yorkshire.

Tom Randall commented: "Amazing effort from Franco Cookson. One of the best lines I've tried and some very beefy climbing on it.... I spent a few sessions on it and was absolutely sure of it being around E9 7a..."

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In reply to UKC News:

Good effort Franco, looks ace

In reply to UKC News:
Good effort! Looks like one hell of a climb. No H grade however?

*gets popcorn*

In reply to UKC News: Wow, boulder looks awesome! Great effort!

In reply to UKC News:

That must be one of the best-looking boulders in the country, especially with such a flat landing. Right up there with the Bowderstone and the Calf.

Nice one Franco.

In reply to UKC News:

I don't generally get that excited about bouldering there's no chance of me ever getting on but this looks not only properly hard but bold and up an inspiring line on what would be a crag in the Peak...

In reply to UKC News:

Great looking boulder and line - a fine effort! Any idea where the name comes from?

In reply to UKC News:

Nice one, as usual, Franco.

In reply to UKC News:

Amazing looking line, crackin' effort Franco!

(a few more comments here http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638554 from yesterday)

In reply to Fraser:


It means Amanita (magic mushroom), written in cyrillic

In reply to UKC News:

Amazing effort from Franco.

What also should be noted is that the rock on this boulder isn't always 100% which certainly adds a spice factor to the ascent. It is really good rock, but every now and again there is a time bomb waiting. On the second session I had on it, I was pulling on one of those holds that you'd bet good money on never breaking and - bang! - it had flown over my head! This wouldn't be that big a deal except that it was the penultimate move of the face...

I think you've got to have a certain appetite for risk when doing some of the hard lines up there, because they have the physical nature of grit, but not always the predictability.

In reply to UKC News:
Nice one Franco - keep up the good work

I wonder who the one dislike is from

In reply to CurlyStevo:


I was wondering the same thing.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

are you going to congratulate Franco on his awesome first ascent?

In reply to CurlyStevo:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=638554

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Ha - good awesome

I wonder who the dislike is from.

The line looks great.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Maybe there will be a UKC leak one day where all the dislikes become public information.

In reply to UKC News:

Franco goes to Stoupe Brow...

Awesome looking boulder and awesome looking route!

In reply to john arran:


Cheers. Next question then ...

In reply to john arran:

Well sort of, "magic mushroom" usually refers to Psilocybins, the psychedelic ones of which aren't usually lethal - unlike many Amanitas. I think it'd be a mistake to tuck into a plate of Fly Agaric!



Good stuff Franco. What an amazing bit of rock, I used to go on holiday beside there, we should've got away from the seaside a bit more!

In reply to JDal:


Our reindeer lap 'em up!

In reply to UKC News:

Surely the fact it's a boulder, there's matts and spotters means that it's a highball not a solo. Wouldn't want to fall from that height onto matts three deep all the same!

In reply to JDal:
Fly Agarics are okay. I ate four big ones once.

And that boulder looks superb.

In reply to UKC News: Good effort ..but what's he done on Eagle Crag ?

In reply to UKC News:

Nice one...

Albeit looks to be about the same height as Livin' Large in SA... So a "safe" highball, unlike some stuff in say Bishop.

For comparison, here's mr. Webb on Livin' Large (but he's a big bloke)
http://www.epictv.com/video/bouldering/jimmy-webb-livin-large-terrifying-hi...

In reply to USBRIT:


Got right royally spanked on a filthy Post Mortem (and may God bless all who flail on her!)

I loved their conclusion: 'Battered, muddy but we felt we had accomplished something? ' Yep, can certainly relate to that - as I'm sure you can too.

At least they had the good sense not to pick on PM for 'the most brutal rehab ever...'

Great to see their happy band going from strength to strength. Long may it continue.

Mick

In reply to USBRIT:
Even more pertinent perhaps, what has Franco done at Filey Brigg?

Probably everything, but had to ask.

Well done. We used to cycle up to Stoupe Brow as kids from Scarborough and mess around at the bottom of those boulders and imagine how anyone would ever climb them. Now we know.

TJB

In reply to UKC News:

As others have said, this is a very cool looking boulder (and line). The other one also looks quality.

In reply to john arran:


You do know some stuff, John!

Did you know that the Cyrillic alphabet is named after St Cyril?

In reply to felt:


http://forbiddenknowledgetv.net/magic-mushrooms-and-reindeer-446

You're halfway to the traditional way to taking those mushrooms - just need to drink up some of the reindeer urine. There is some circumstantial evidence that this practice of drinking reindeer urine is actually a very recent trend however, and was copied by the shamans from a visiting British television presenter who they saw became ecstatic after drinking any urine.

In reply to SenzuBean:

Was it Ulrika?

In reply to Andy Say:



I confess to having the assistance of a popular search engine!

In reply to UKC News:

Well done Franco.

Not sure whether to just congratulate you for the route or also resisting the temptation to wind everybody up somehow.

We know you are very capable if you try

In reply to UKC News:

Class!

In reply to UKC News:

great spotting stance from the man in the green trousers

In reply to Donald82:

I'm guessing he actually had hold of one of the mats, to quickly move it into the right place should the worst happen?

Either that or he's a fan of the Haka.

In reply to SenzuBean:



I've heard musings over the possible link between Laps drinking reindeer urine laced with fly agaric and a certain myth about flying reindeer, one with a glowing red, fly agaric-like, nose. Those musing may or may not have been off their faces at the time.

In reply to Donald82:

He should have lent Franco his trousers, would have made for a much better photo

In reply to UKC News:

wow,looks very impressive. perfect looking boulder also

In reply to UKC News:

Great looking line and top skills from Franco.

As an aside what is the origin of such a bloody big boulder - is it a quarrying remnant? Looks too big and soft to be an erratic.

In reply to pasbury:

Old Alum shale quarry which is capped by a thick sandstone. No idea if the quarry trundled them and they never got broken up and removed or if they fell down after the quarry was abandoned. I would presume the latter.

In reply to Dave Warburton:
Both the boulders have several 3 foot deep holes drilled in them, presumably for an explosive charge, so I'd guess the former. Although it seems strange (and fortuitous) that they never finished the job.

As kids we used to sit on top and peer down at the army earnestly pegging up the vertical N face.

In reply to Fishnish:


Ah, interesting. I've never noticed the shot holes...


Now a classic 6C!