In reply to Owen W-G:
US 5.9 would appear to be in the HVS/ E1 region, which looks right for this route.
But what Bear does in this video (which I've just watched as lunchtime entertainment) is certainly not any sort of valid ascent, as far as one can make out. So many questions...
1) Why does he do it in trainers?
2) Why doesn't he wear a helmet?
3) Why does he deliberately smash rocks on the approach?
4) Why, if there's a top rope (and there is), doesn't the footage own up to this properly?
5) WTF is he doing placing friends when he's on a top rope?
6) Who, if anyone, is supposed to be seconding him?
7) If no one, why is he trailing a lead rope? Would it be too cynical of me to suggest that the bright yellow lead rope is supposed to distract our attention further from the stealth-black top rope?
I also have a question for the idiots who made this video:
8) Why on earth are you giving non-climbers (probably your main audience, I somehow think) such a completely, not to say dangerously, misleading picture of what climbing actually involves?
For as I can't be the first to have pointed out, there are obvious safety nightmares arising from this clip. And no one can say that there's no danger of ill-informed punters trying to do what Bear does. He's the Chief Scout. People will copy him, and when they do, they have every chance of getting hurt. It's just plain irresponsible for him to clown around like this.
Post edited at 13:18