UKC

Looking for some very easy (up to S I guess) for a beginner to 2nd. Multi pitch would be good but large belay ledges would be ideal. 2 or 3 shortish pitches with decent views, long walk ins are fine and probably preferable. It would be great if it can be combined with a walk/picnic. Lack of other people and clean rock are the other items on the wish list.

Any ideas out there?

In reply to dunnyg:

Outside Edge Route, Cwm Silyn (sp)

In reply to dunnyg:

Cwm Idwal has lots of easy routes such as 'Hope' on Idwal Slabs which can then be linked with easy routes on the walls above such as 'The Arete' on continuation wall. If you are still feeling good after and have time you can link 'Sub-Cneifion Rib' & 'Cneifion Arete' as well.

The east face of Tryfan also has several great routes at VDiff & HVDiff - Look at 'Gooved Arete' though this is about 8 or so pitches.

There is easy stuff on Little Tryfan - most if not all the routes are very easy and can be done in one big 50 or so meter pitch.

Flying Butress & Spiral Stairs on the Cromlech are also great multipitch easy VDiff's.

If the mountains are wet and miserable then there are several really good VDiffs and severe's at Tremadog which is often dry.

In reply to David Staples:

Cheers, have done most of them and most will be crawling this weekend. Good shouts though. A little tryffan esque crag further from the road would probably be the idea. Outside edge seems to have a few too many pitches. Looks good though.

In reply to dunnyg: There are some good easy routes on Holyhead Mountain but not perhaps multipitch.

In reply to dunnyg:

Should have looked at the size of your log book first! You have probably ticked every route in N Wales

Maybe the Moelwyns, don't think many people think about going there compare to routes in Ogwen and the Pass...

In reply to dunnyg:

langdale, Upper scouts crag.... its a V-diff fest 2-3 pitches.

or go further up the Valley to raven crag. longer routes with a good range of low to mid grades

In reply to dunnyg:

I'd second Moelwyns. Loads of multipitch V Diff/ Severes. Big ledges, short pitches - though most are 3 or 4 pitch. Rough rock. Lots of sunbathing, picnicking, walking options nearby. Lovely views, south facing.

In reply to Mark Haward:

Moelwyns is sounding like a winner... will peruse north wales rock when I get back and see whats to do there. Any decent (cheap and likely to have space....) campsites recommendations round there?

In reply to dunnyg:

There's an easier slab out the back of Lliwedd out by the pipeline. I forget the name of the crag, but shouldn't be hard to find.

Edit: Pretty sure it's this one: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2138

In reply to dunnyg:

Corvus, Lakes? Popular but there are similar options nearby just not as well known. Nice walk. Other short routes on the slabby crag at the base.

Or something on grey crag, buttermere. It's what climbing is all about

In reply to Skyfall:

Corvus might be on the busy side! Grey crag is sublime - might be some stuff i havent done there. Another grey crag would be ideal...

In reply to dunnyg:

Kestrel Wall on eagle crag, grisedale? Not a bad early season route but not a lot of easy stuff iirc other than that.

Or Kennel Wall etc at Gouther, Swimdale. Lots of easy stuff. Maybe too busy, not long enough walk in?

In reply to dunnyg:

The routes on the east face of Tryfan tend to have massive belay ledges. I would stay off grooved arete and the pinnacle ribs as they are polished & busy, but all the others I have climbed are great.

In reply to dunnyg:

As a true dirt-bagger I normally sleep in the car (Saves pitching the tent in the rain) but I have stayed at a few campsites in N Wales. Erics at Tremadog would be a good bet, only about a 30 min drive up the road from his and you get the added benefit of being able to climb at Tremadog as well. I doubt it will be full so just turn up and pitch.

In reply to dunnyg:

I don't think anyone has mentioned Amphitheatre Buttress?

Long walk in but a superb easy multi pitch mountain route with large belay ledges. A classic

In reply to dunnyg:

Various options on Dow crag- I remember going there as a novice leader and loving it, great, atmospheric crag with a lot of history. Far enough from car park to be quiet. Combine with a walk over the Old Man, maybe.

In reply to dunnyg:

Flying buttress, Dinas Cromlech

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Its a bit cold for dow at the moment, but it eould be a good ahout in the warmer months!

Lots of suggestions for long er routes. Not really what im after, yet! Maybe when 2nd has more confidence.

In reply to dunnyg:

I very much recommend Bramble Buttress on Craig Y Gesail, just a bit of a drive away from the main bulk of Tremadog. It's the best low-grade route I've ever done, and I've done it a few times now. The first belay is a little bit awkward and can be uncomfortable if you get stuck in the wrong place but the gear itself is a huge spike so it could not be more solid. The other belay is huge and the top pitch is the best VDiff top out I've ever done (and I've also done Little Chamonix).

One of the best things about Gesail is the fact that everyone else is busy on Bwlch y Moch and they don't bother with finding it and walking in. You'll have the place to yourself, even on a day with queues for the easier routes on the rest of Tremadog. And from the top you get a view right out to the estuary and the Llyn peninsula on a clear day.

In reply to dunnyg:

Got to be Outside Edge,superb climb,walk in and views. A true mountain experience with usually the crag to yourself Outside Edge Route (VD)[climb(2935,"Outside Edge Route")?

In reply to freelunchprovider:

You have the crag by yourself, sure...but others are active down below nicking stuff from your motor. Beware!