UKC

Hi everyone

I'm trying to come up with a good system for working a multi pitch sport route, where no other belayer is present.

If there are any methods you know of then it would be great to hear about them. Particularly four routes which are overhanging!!

Thanks

H.

In reply to Hans:

Wren Silent Partner or Wren Soloist?

In reply to Hans:

Clipstick and a shunt?

In reply to nicmac:

Had to go on google and everything for that. Looks like an interesting bit of kit to get; never heard of 'Wren' before.

Cheers

H

In reply to Hans:


On slightly overhanging routes/pitches, a shunt will tend to slide. On severely overhanging stuff, it will be a major faff. Nothing wrong with a Silent Partner (Wren) but you will find it very hard to manage on overhangs.

Please get a (human) belayer.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

And they're surprisingly expensive.

In reply to Hans:
Gri-gri backed up with knots or is the economy way to do it. Silent partners are £250 if you can get one, and you still need knots. If you set up a top rope then Petzl Micro Traxion is the way to go. Just did a 10 pitch route the Penon on a gri-gri and knots. See Andy K's Me Myself and I if you want to know how to do it.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Thanks for the advice. Getting a belayer at the moment seems to be more of a challenge than climbing itself...

I'll concentrate on the less steeper stuff and maybe get something done. Pity the wren is so expensive. Not an option.

Cheers

H.

In reply to philhilo:

Thanks loads for the Andy K reference - I think this is exactly what I'm looking for. I knew he had written some really niche stuff but I was not aware he had written on this subject.

Great stuff

H.

In reply to Hans:

I'm sorry to say a silent partner is no good for working routes. It is the kind of thing that will save your life, but is a right pain if you fall a lot and almost impossible to use on routes at your limit.

(Note, I'm assuming that by working a route you mean falling off a lot on something hard, not just doing laps.)

Probably the only way to work a multi pitch is from the top down. i.e. rap the top pitch, practice it on self belayed top rope, rap the next pitch and repeat. This requires 2 ropes. 2 ropes = 120m and there aren't many multi pitch sports routes in the UK longer than this, so you might be able to rig it from top to bottom with a re-belay at a bolt at 60m. (Or many you aren't thinking just UK?)

A lot of people use a grigri with a backup knot to work routes on top rope as it is easy to go up and down so you can practice the crux many times, then use a pair of mini traxions to do the whole pitch clean (on top rope) once they have it dialled.

An alternative is to join a climbing club or two - this should generate all the partners you need.

In reply to David Coley:

Yes, I mean working something fairly difficult.

Thanks for advice about working from the top. It had crossed my mind to do this; problem is I have a 50m single rope. Could ab down and work it using two gri gris, using the nearest bolt at the rope ends as an anchor point. Might get messy though.

Best to get 2 60's as you say. I'm going to start by practicing in a climbing wall first before heading out.

Climbing in UK and Europe. Have never used mini traxions before. I'm very focused on training at the moment, so finding a partner willing to hold ropes while I do a set training routine is difficult. Most people, as I totally understand, just want to do a few routes and swap over. Each to their own.

Cheers again

H

In reply to Hans:

Don't dismiss joining a club. The members will have lots of old ropes suitable for top roping so you rig any route top to bottom and if lead someone up some hard things they will be happy to hold your ropes

In reply to Hans:

You don't think people in clubs train? You might be surprised to find its not all beards and VDiffs. Give them a try there might well be some folks climbing at your level and training. Our club for instance climb up to winter VIII, 7b, E5 and big walling. I am sure if you joined us someone could follow you up stuff even if it meant hanging around a bit!

In reply to Hans:
Get with the sport crowd at Malham etc and you will find plenty of people who train and climb hard.