UKC

Taking a 60 meter lead line and may have to abseil a long route. So full length abseils would be a massive advantage. What thickness cord is suitable to pull the lead line down with? I guess lighter the better but there must be a point where it gets too thin before it stretches too much?

In reply to Kemics:

I don't think stretch is the issue. It's holding and pulling thin cord, especially if the rope gets stuck a bit.

In reply to GrahamD:

You could tie a knot in the cord and clip it to a crab to pull it?

In reply to Kemics:
don't really get the pull rope thing, sounds like a faff

also

60m 5mm = 1.2kg + 60m 10mm 3.6kg = 4.8kg
60m 7.7mm mammut twilight = 2.3kg X 2 =4.6kg

guess if you need something burly for big wall then maybe

In reply to Kemics:

Unless youre rapping down lower offs, i wouldn't bother.
7mm is good enough. And i wouldn't use less because you can't crank on anything less

In reply to Kemics:

4mm

In reply to John Kelly:

Yeah it's for Yosemite. Normally we'll use the haul line and lead line. But we might do some smaller routes that don't require hauling so will only have the one rope. Don't really have space to bring a 3rd lead line :/

So anything between 4 and 7? I might go go for longer because it's a good source of cord for bailing

In reply to Kemics:

I've had a play with paracord and found it was way too stretchy (and was only pulling on 30m). Another option that might be worth considering (if you really want to keep the weight down) is getting some dyneema cord from a chandlery - I got a few metres to tie various things in and it pretty much does not stretch at all.

In reply to SenzuBean:

In an ideal world but apparently it's like £5 a meter! I think 60 meter of 5mm cord is going to be the option

In reply to Kemics:


<looks at prices> - ah yeah good choice

In reply to Kemics:

... and 5mm gives you plenty of cord if you need to make up some prusiks or use some as tat for bails offs.

In reply to Kemics:


If you go down the 5mm route practice what clamps or knots work if you need to pull it down really hard.

PS You will not believe the amount of stretch in a 5mm cord at high tension. It will then be very prone to slashing or sheath damage.

In reply to treforsouthwell:


Not great for multiple pitches though. It'll slow things up a lot

In reply to Rick Graham:


Never tried it, but presumably a bit of 2mm accessory cord would make a decent prusik for gripping 5mm cord? Breaking strain around 90kg - which should be more than plenty for the task.

In reply to Kemics:

I've used 5mm (static), but is was a right pain in any wind. 6mm is much better. You will need a stuff sack for it as you pay it out as you descend - it will blow away if you just chuck it. Or lower the first person (with the end of the 6mm tied to them).

In reply to GrahamD:


Correct. Knot little use when the tag line stretches so much. Need two clamps or prussiks.

In reply to BarrySW19:


90 kg a bit weak for two climbers pulling/bouncing on a highly tensioned cord as hard as they can.

In reply to David Coley:


We went from 6mm to 7mm for this reason. Might as well go for lightest half rope nowadays (7.3 ? 6.9 ? )

In reply to Rick Graham:

Maybe a really light weight alpine rope isn't a terrible idea?

In reply to Kemics:

How about using sheathless polypropylene rope, say 5/6mm? Very cheap from internet, much lighter than climbing and static ropes of same diameter, virtually no stretch, and strong.

In reply to Kemics:
Andy Kirkpatrick has a blog about this I think. He should know...

I've considered pull cord for Alpine stuff but for now have decided against it and got a 7.3mm rope instead. Reasons being:

- Pull cord set up is a faff.
- Probably higher risk of getting the rope stuck if you're pulling down a crab which is hitched to a rope vs just an overhand.
- 7.3mm is thin but that's still a fully rated half rope, so you still have a proper rope if something happens to the main rope.
- Not much weight difference vs 7mm tat. Obviously if you go for 5mm or 6mm the weight saving would be more significant.

Also saved weight by getting 50m not 60m. Alpine summer abs are normally under 50m. No idea about Yosemite.

Note this was used with a half rope and an overhand was fine. I don't know if it would still work with a fat single or if you'd need a double overhand or fisherman's to prevent rope slip due to the difference in diameter.

In reply to Misha:

For alpine yes, but not really that useful for Yosemite style straight steep lines. I know a lot of people are using the Edelrid Rap cord (in essence a 50 or 60m 6mm static dyneema rope).


9mm to 6mm with to EDKs back to back usually works and hasn't rolled noticeably. Other option is EDK and then and overhand with the thinner rope around the thicker one.