UKC

Hi people,

I'm taking a group of friends to Dorset for the first time who probably climb from 5 to 6b (they mainly climb indoors in London so I am thinking it might translate to lower grades in Dorset...).

I was climbing in Dorset a couple of weeks ago at the Cuttings and Blacknor North and they have quite a few decent climbs at that range, but I'd prefer to go somewhere different this weekend if poss. I've done a bit of research and Winspit in Swanage looks like an option - would people recommend and does anywhere else spring to mind?

Cheers,

Rob

In reply to RobSamuel:

Godnor is ok

In reply to RobSamuel:

Personally I find the swanage quarries in the lower grades being a little lack lustre and polished. Especially if you head to the popular areas. Portland can suffer the same, but there are some good areas, cheyne wears area is good for persons looking for 5 and 6s, the routes are of a reasonable length and approach etc is quite good. Sun in the morning.
Cuttings is mostly over loved, if the wind is good for the West side, then it's also a nicer place imo to be, but sun in the afternoon.
Have fun, be safe.
If youre top-roping, people will be pleased to see you using draws on the anchor instead of threaded, but I guess you may know that already.

In reply to RobSamuel:

If conditions and tides are right then the Xavier's Wall area of Coastguard South is fantastic, there are also some decent shorter lines in the Aerials area that have been developed since the Rockfax guide, topos are in the photos on the UKC crag page.
Battleship Edge & Battleship Back Cliff also have plenty of quality, easier options on the Battleship block and Veranda and some classics starting from 6a on Battleship main, read the crag notes for approach, which has changed since the 2012 Rockfax due to landslips.

In reply to RobSamuel:

I've never done Portland so don't know how it compares. I've wandered around the main quarries in swanage, winspit, hedbury and dancing ledge and would say winspit is your best bet. I've only done one route there but when wandering around there seemed to be a good variety of routes I'd give a go, I.e 5 and below. Whereas hedbury and swanage were very limited in that grade range it seemed

In reply to Kevster:


That was going to be my suggestion, too. And varied rock in a compact area: mudstone, cherty limestone, then clean limestone. Three seasons in one route...

Fallen Slab area, too, maybe, for first timers transitioning from indoor to rock?

In reply to RobSamuel:

You could also try Blacknor South, the Sacred Angel area has a bunch of stuff below 6b and some of the easier climbs right by the walk-in are quite new so not too polished. There is even more easy stuff in the small quarry above that you walk through, although I can't comment on the quality, it is very short though.

In reply to RobSamuel:
Winspit is ideal for the sort of group you are describing; good range of easier routes, lovely flat grass for picnics, sheltered if the wind is blowing, and a cracking pub for the end of the day.

In reply to RobSamuel:
Winspit is quite nice, its scenic for a quarry you see a lot of walkers and families come down there.

Battle ship back cliff is more of a sea cliff experience and on natural rock. Its also a nice spot and good for a small group.

Depends what you want really.

At winspit make sure you do Stone Mason (6a+) and Unseen Ripples of the Pebble (6b)

At Battles Ship Back Cliff the best routes I've done are Buoys will be Buoys (6b+) and The Price of Silence (6a) if you likes slabs this is really rather good too http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13492

Also bear in min the Battle ship back cliff approach changed a couple of years back after a major storm collapsed a large section of cliff.

In reply to RobSamuel:

ok check this also Battle ship back cliff may be bird banned

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=640521&v=1

In reply to CurlyStevo:
The Bird Ban seems to only cover a small area of the Battleship backcliff, although the BMC RAD doesn't have a 2016 update. The restricted routes are all 6b+ and up, so probably not a problem for the OP's group:
"Restrictions apply from 1 March - 30 June. Reason - Nesting Birds
The peregrines that previously nested on Blacknor have moved nest site to Battleship Back Cliff. A restriction is now in place at the crag between “Always have the Edge” and “Zinc Oxide Mountain” including those routes. Blacknor is now un-restricted".

In reply to RobSamuel:

I think the bird ban issue at Battleship was mentioned in another forum recently and a local climber was climbing down at Battleship several times recently and didn't see the Peregrines at all.

In reply to RobSamuel:

Following the thread with intrest I checked out

Cheyne Cliff

But the crag description say it has fallen down. Gas it?

In reply to RobSamuel:

Thank you for all the useful advice.

I'm currently thinking that we will head to Cheyne Wears area in the morning and then potentially Coastguard South or Battleship Main/Edge in the afternoon as it seems as though Portland might be a better bet for the whole weekend, rather than just going to to Swanage for Winspit.

Good to know about the bird restrictions - I had seen that on the Battleship page and was a bit concerned. Also regarding the approach to Cheyne Wears - it would be good if someone could confirm but it seems as though people have been since it was mentioned and it is now OK?

In reply to John Clinch (Ampthill):

Only the Coralised area which always looked a bit dodgy, the rest is fine AFAIK

In reply to RobSamuel:

Cheyne wears, the boulder beach below the neddy fields bouldering area is where the easiest access is, and where I suggest you head for starters for this area. There has been an amount of new routes bolted in the recent past, and basically there is little above 6c. So plenty of 6as etc.
The fallen down area is further north of this, and offers harder routes, and probably has a bird ban too. You'll do well to get to here, let alone climb.

I used to enjoy going to cheyne in the morning and around lunch heading over to blacknor for the afternoon sun. Bigger groups are harder to organise for this. But it is worth the effort and sunshine on a spring day.

If you are all done and sunset is yet to come, then clichéd and touristy though it is, the cove public house on Chesil beach (that's on portland at the bottom of the one way system) is a magical place to finish off the day.

In reply to Kevster:

Ta - sounds like a plan!

In reply to RobSamuel:

Let us know how you all get on with the indoor to outdoor transition. Hope you all enjoy it; Portland is great. You could also visit the Tout Sculpture Park for a bit of culture, including Anthony Gormley's 'Falling Man'. Hmmm... after the climbing, maybe...

Oh, and make sure everyone's familiar with lower-off setup drill. Apologies for egg-sucking tuition; I have had to assist with forgotten kit in the past; fortunately, a short route, and my aim was good...

And if it's a sunny day, sunblock on the back of legs... been caught out at CW before.

In reply to captain paranoia:

No worries - thanks for the advice - I'll check the rope work with everyone preclimbing.

I had my legs roasted in the Costa Blanca recently and ended up tying two pairs of jumpers round the back of them whilst belaying. An interesting look...

In reply to RobSamuel:

As it covers exactly the grade range you are after this may be of interest:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=497
...I always jump at the opportunity to plug one of my ticklists