UKC

If you were only going to climb one route this year, at your current grade or an achievable grade for you, what would it be? Doesn't need to be the hardest.

Mine would probably be
Gambit Climb (S)
Main Wall (HS 4b)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD)

Any of those and I'd be happy. What about you

In reply to zimpara:

Beaj Iskis (HVS 5a)

or

Centurion (HVS 5a)

or

East Face Route (Original Route) (E1 5b)

In reply to zimpara:
All your candidates are magnificent, but given that I definitely want to go climbing more than once, for me it would have to be a project. Then I'd have to guesstimate: what do I have no realistic chance of onsighting or redpointing quickly, but a realistic chance of redpointing by about November?

Wolfgang G£llich's New Dimensions (XI-) (the XI- grade in the ukc database is clearly a joke) or Treibjagd (Kurt Stör Gedenkweg) (7b+)

In reply to zimpara:
Dream/Liberator at Bosigran

Great Wall on Cloggy

1938 route on the North Face of the Eiger

With each one I feel as though I have unfinished business.

Al

In reply to zimpara:

Ah wait, I'm changing my answer.

Regular Northwest Face (5.9)

In reply to

West Side Story V9 at Burbage West, highball enough to be a route, brilliant climbing, and put up by The Boss. I had a look at it last weekend, and it looks like it'll go if I can avoid my natural inclination to scuttle off along the break.


West Side Story (f7B+)

In reply to zimpara:

The Nose (C2) or something on that crag

In reply to zimpara:

Just did it. Cuillin Ridge over the last two days, north to south this time around, with bivvy at foot of the Inaccesible Pinnacle. It doesn't get any better.

In reply to zimpara:

Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c) would be my pick. It's currently too hard for me, but once I've solidified at HVS and led a few E1s it will be on
I've even just bought some monstrously large hexes as part of the preparation!

In reply to zimpara:

The main route on my todo list is the Dibonova Smer on Spik (UIAA IV).

Don't think I'm going to get to do it this year though.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Really want to do The Cull down in Cornwall this year. Will be happy to get that done.

In reply to zimpara:

Good thread, and some really good routes/answers - I'm going in to nostalgia overdrive!

Mine would have to be The Groove (8a+), simply because there is a very real chance I won't do it this year.

In reply to SenzuBean:



Reckon you can hold on long enough to place them?

In reply to BnB:


I've no idea - I just know I used a massive hex (bigger than the purple Wild Country) on Sabre Cut and was very grateful to have it. I reckon I'd find the odd good bridge to get one in from too

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:



Keep going at it. I know someone who has been trying it on and off for years and they got it this year.

In reply to zimpara:

I did Bowfell Buttress yesterday in stunning weather and at the head of the queue. If I don't do another route this year it will have been a wonderful climax. What great situations on a major buttress at such an amenable grade. A joyous romp!!

In reply to zimpara:
Walker Spur

In reply to SenzuBean:
You don't need hexes for Cenotaph. It's mostly normal nuts with may be a couple of friends to supplement.

In reply to zimpara:

Spigolo Jori/Fiames Arete (V+)

In reply to SenzuBean:


but you won't be able to solidify, as it's going to be your only route of the year

In reply to Lenin:

Good one. If multi-day redpoint projects weren't allowed and I could only go climbing for one day, then Perla Nera (E1)

In reply to Misha:

Thanks. I'll still bring a large hex though - so I can have plausible deniability that I didn't get any beta.

In reply to zimpara:

Colouir Cotourier, Aiguille Verte, or one of the adjacent routes.

Unlikely though, as I don´t have time (and partners) enough to get back to speed on easier stuff. Well, maybe next year then...

CB

In reply to zimpara: Flipping heck! That's a tricky question... think it would have to be Ship of Fools (E5 6b) or Darkinbad the Brightdayler (E5 6a)

In reply to zimpara:

Would have to be something long and classic so there would be plenty of climbing to look back on. And at the top of my ability. I'm thinking something like

Prophesy of Drowing, E2 on Pabbay, or
Orion Direct, V on The Ben / Last Post, v on Creag Meagaidh

In reply to oscaig:


Hmmm, those ships may have sailed!

In reply to zimpara:

Bernia Ridge

In reply to zimpara:

The Prozac Link

In reply to Robert Durran:

The Yellow Edge
Or
The Cassin Route
Been on the list for 10 years but my climbing partners have too many other interests
Dave

In reply to Cake:


After 35 years climbing in the Peaks, I've still never seen anyone top out, so it'll be kind of insight-ish when it does go. JA described the dyno and finish to me once, but that was a long time ago

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:




If it has to be a roped up climb, then my head would say Dream/Liberator in Great Zawn
The Dream/Liberator (E3 6a)
But my heart would say one of either Elegy, Track of the Cat or Wings of Unreason. Probably Elegy for sheer elegance.

In reply to zimpara:

Septumania at Eldorado, which I'm going out to hopefully do next week.

Regular Route, Fairview Dome, Tuolumne, which I'm going out to do in July - amongst several others all being well.

In reply to Robert Durran:


My choice too. Got a trip planned, so will hopefully manage it.

In reply to zimpara:

Maybe Whitt (VS 4c)

In reply to AlanLittle:



Is that the one that would translate to being about 7b? I did the VIII there and it was nails. Maybe it's not so far wrong

I think either Infinite Gravity (8a+) or any one of a number of E5s I've got my eye on would be the route that in theory I would most want to do, but if I had to pick one E5 it would take me only a day to either succeed or fail, and for infinite gravity I'd only get to climb for about 6 weeks in the autumn. The Cider Soak (8a) would be my next most logical choice - very inspiring, likely to occupy me for a while yet, but there is that risk that it might go too soon to fully occupy a year. Toughie.....

In reply to AJM:

That's the badger. Guidebook grade is VIII+/IX- (=7b) but this guys reckons it's 7b+/c:

http://topoguide.de/topoguide-Magazin/Sektoren_und_Routen_Franken.pdf

Proper old skool bolting on that wall too (see also: Weissenstein, Fight Gravity)

In reply to Goucho:


Enjoy, it's a class route. Don't miss Fair Hands Line while you're in that part of the world.

In reply to zimpara:

In the UK
The Conger (E2 5c) (would no doubt involve some splashdowns - I'm assuming multiple attempts are allowed)
Elsewhere either
Corrugation Corner (5.7)
or Jacob's Ladder (16)

In reply to AlanLittle:

Dale did it when I was there in that case and made it look hard.

I was amazed how shiny Fight Gravity was actually.

Must get a trip together to get back to Hitchhike the Plane some time...

In reply to zimpara:

First one that came to mind is 'Central Buttress' on Scafell. Am totally enthused to get on this.
Then I thought of 'Carillo-Cantabella' at Leyva, Murcia, as for years I haven't managed to get to this crag!
And finally, 'Magic corners' on Puig Campana.
If it had to be one, then providing the weather gods are kind this summer it will be CB

In reply to Dave Garnett:


Thanks Dave.

I've done Motorhead 3 times - it's one of my favourite routes - we're in the area for about a week, so hopefully will get a few routes done.

In reply to zimpara:
Stroof - Swanage. Unfinished business - I will lead it one day.
Orpheus Wall - Birchens Edge. Ditto.
Dream of white horses. Never tried this one.

One a year will be fine.

In reply to zimpara:

Difficult to keep it to one choice so I'll give a single pitch, multi-pitch and Alpine route, all of which are possible for me this year.
Left Wall (E2 5c)
The Needle (E1 5b)
Kuffner Ridge (D 4c)

In reply to BnB:



Hint The crux doesn't involve placing hexes!

In reply to zimpara:

Reminds me of a pub conversation years ago during the depths of winter in Calderdale.

"Where would you like to get to next Summer"?

Various answers: Scotland. the Alps. America, Pembroke etc etc...but one lad gazed in to the distance, took a deep breath and said:

"You know? i'd really like to get up to Widdop this year"

In reply to Goucho:

Jealous!

My ignorant climbing partner all hate friction slabs and jamming cracks, and whenever I find someone to join me for Eldorado it rains.

CB

In reply to BnB:

It took me four goes to do Bowfell Buttress due to partners copping out or the rain sweeping in, and doing the Scrappy VD route across the way in greasy conditions and taking longer than anticipated.Eventually I got to do that brilliant route in good dry conditions.

For myself I would be dead chuffed if I got to do Dream of White Horses as I have been there 3 times already and been let down by partners(again)and by the weather.
Alternatively I would like to go back to Denali(so due to permits it would have to be next year) and climb the Cassin Route.
Any of the three classics at Carn Mor would be good.So either Gob, Fionn Buttress or Dragon(If the latter I would have to say I would see it as an HVS, not an E1 as that is how it is put in Hard Rock)
If in the alps I would be well pleased to do the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey as a recce in order to do the Peuterey Integrale on another occasion.
Any one of these routes would be another tick off my ideal list and it would be fully satisfying.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Hint: I was only teasing. But thanks for the beta

PS Liked the Widdop gag

In reply to zimpara:

Mescalito A3 on El Cap. Reckon I could string that out to two weeks, good value for a single route. Will probably have to wait until next year though. This year Right Wall on the Cromlech would be nice.

In reply to zimpara:

This doesn't really stick to your OP but after a massive debilitating injury last year when I had to have carers, I dreamt up a list of what I aimed for if I could walk and climb again.
Given that 10 months ago I couldn't climb out of the shower without a carer, and I never seconded harder than a VS while fit, my plan for this year, post recovery, is to second Valkyrie.
It might not seem very ambitious, but that's at the top of my list

In reply to Goucho:

I think the best route i've done in Tuolumne was Crescent Arch. Regular Route had a fantastic second pitch but it rather outshone the rest of the route.

In reply to zimpara:

Folks on UKC are very greedy as the poster specifically asks for just one route this year. Now that is desperately difficult choice to make. But I will have to go with.....................Left Wall!

In reply to zimpara:

If I were to climb one route this year, I'd be ecstatic.

A Boxing Day mishap at Burbage makes it very unlikely.

In reply to Mostro:

Have to agree with this. ..
crescent arch is amazing. ..along with matthes crest and third pillar of Dana. . Reguar route is nice but over rated.. last pitch of Dana is amazing. ..worth the walk in.

In reply to zimpara:

Already done it - Flying Buttress Direct E1 5b at Stanage Pop last Monday, absolutely incredible!

In reply to zimpara:

Sydpillaren on Stetind Norway in midnight sun.

In reply to SturlaS:

It'll be in the shade!

One of my dream routes is to climb the stunning North Pillar.............. in the midnight sun.

In reply to zimpara:

Depends.

Adventure with competent friends:
Prophecy of Drowning E2
Prophecy of Drowning (E2 5c)

Sizeable project to get me inspired and fit again:
Dominatrix 7c
Dominatrix (7c)

Most likely I'll do neither, my focus is very much on flying this year but I'm looking forward to going for a potter in the mountains with my partner and friends, rediscover what I used to love about climbing, just getting to visit some cool places with people I like.
jk

In reply to Robert Durran:

I know but the top and the descent to Halls fortopp will be very nice.

In reply to jkarran:

Do you mean flying as in piloting a plane? I've had a few lessons but abandoned it due to cost and my age but it took a surprisingly short amount of time until I was able to do everything myself in a Cesna 172. This was aided by investing in flight simulation software and products which also saved a huge amount of money. If I was younger flying might well have replaced climbing but I left it too late in life.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

Gliding. Powered flight is too expensive plus I prefer the quiet and the element of sport/chance that comes with soaring.

Worth a look if you're still interested, the medical requirements are currently minimal (basically a drivers licence though that may be age limited and some clubs still impose a slightly higher standard) and it's not much more expensive than driving to the dales to climb.
jk

In reply to jkarran:

Never really appealed to me. The prospect of being up there at the mercy of the elements would terrify me. Might give it a go on the flight sim though as the choice of aircraft is unlimited.

Al

In reply to zimpara:

A tediously practical and hopelessly obscure suggestion - The Traverse (f6C+) at Harmer's Wood - enough fingery technicality to keep me going for many a pleasant evening. Don't really climb that much and mostly a fell runner these days, but this is a great local bouldering crag to keep my hand in. A couple of chewy moves to do and it'd be a big link. Preposterous sandbag at 6C and never actually seen it done.

In reply to Lobsbelow:

Good luck, hope your recovery will work as hoped!

CB

In reply to SenzuBean:



Throw them away, they'll be too big.

In reply to ianstevens:


I've been given that same beta twice already in this thread

I haven't actually gone yet to see the size of the crack - so was always just estimating based on Sabre Cut. What would've happened (and probably still will) is I would've had monster hex in my rucksack, walked up to the route - seen that it wouldn't fit a monster hex, and left them at the bottom of the crag.

In reply to zimpara:

Central Groove (HS 4b), and luckily for me I got it on my second trad outing of the year last Saturday! I've been wanting to do it for years and could not quite believe I was there when I reached those famous pancake holds at the top of pitch one. I want to go back and do it again now!

In reply to zimpara:

Top of my list for this year has to be Vestpillaren Direct (n6).