UKC

I'm seeking advice on well protected severes / hard severes at Stanage.
My lead head isn't good but I'm breaking into these grades as a lead, any suggestions?
I'm not too good at jamming either, but if it's well protected, I'll give it a go (as long as there's no hard unprotected start / rough landings at the start).
Thanks in advance.

In reply to Lobsbelow:

Black Hawk Hell Crack

Black Hawk Hell Crack (S 4a)

I think it's the best Severe in the Peak for cementing your leading. There is gear every inch of the way. And the climbing is challenging but reassuring (ie a ledge every 4ft) all the way up.

In reply to BnB:
Unless my memory deceives me it is a route that allows you to make good use of threads, which is always satisfying.

In reply to Lobsbelow:
Christmas Crack - Christmas Crack (HS 4a) - didn't think it was sustained at all (despite what guidebook says) and loads of gear. Lovely route!

In reply to James Coulson:

Oh crikey
I made a right mess of that last year with only one working leg. (Injury).
Maybe I should try it again now my left leg doesn't need picking up by my hands?

In reply to Lobsbelow:

Try Paradise Wall (HS 4b). It's a well protected route that's happily easier after the obvious crux.

T.

In reply to Lobsbelow:

Bit higher up but Hargreaves original is incredible!

Tons of gear and steady moves

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Bit of a weird choice I think.
Wouldn't say that's what's been asked for atall lol

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

Great climb but borderline VS and not a route to try to get established as a Severe leader. Bishop's route is friendlier.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10328

In reply to BnB:

It's a well-protected HS and as such gives the OP something he specifically requested. And it isn't a sandbag, unlike one of the suggestions in the thread; what you see is what you get. And yes, it's fluttered down from a given grade of VS some fifteen years or so back to HS now but it's a perfectly sound, sane choice for someone establishing themselves at the HS grade. I stand by the nomination.

T.

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

Maybe you're trying to help, and black slab is a great route, but it's a really bad suggestion for the op (bearing in mind all the facts). It would be very easy for someone with slightly less experience to get themselves in trouble on that route - placing gear in flared horizontal breaks is something that takes a bit of experience ( take it from me I know - I led it when I was breaking VS and had an absolute epic - the climbings ok but i couldn't work out how to place gear in those breaks and ended up solo !!!!!!).

In reply to Lobsbelow:
If you're feeling a bit worried about leading at your limit why not get some mileage in at a grade or two lower - it will do wonders fro your head and confidence and there are loads of really nice routes with tonnes of gear - the likes of heaven crack, leaning buttress crack spring to mind - then if you are feeling good you can up the grade - something like christmas crack springs to mind , it's far better to do it that way than jump on something harder and get demotivated- but above all have fun !

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

I kind of second what you are saying - although it's a great route - it is top end and the crux is near the bottom - i've watched people messing about at the start and struggling to get gear in looking at a nasty ankle twister (had to look away)

In reply to BnB:


This would certainly have been my first choice, though it is certainly, on the softer side of Severe. Similarly well protected, but a bit harder climbing would be Eric's Eliminate at High Neb.

Bishop's Route could also fit the bill.

At HS April Crack is well protected, but quite a bit harder climbing than the Severe suggestions.

In reply to BnB:


Oddly, its one of the few classic Severes at Stanage that I haven't soloed - without a rope leaving the ledge (there's a holly bush on it isn't there?) seemed rather intimidating. On the other hand Black Hawk Hell crack felt super secure (if you are happy jamming with the OP obviously says they are not, so needs to practice! ).

In reply to Lobsbelow:

Would strongly recommend that a) you take Ciderslider's advice and b) leave Hargreaves well alone for the time being. (It'll still be there next year, just as good; better to enjoy it then, than risk a gripfest now.)

Wander along Stanage, doing loads of stuff. It's great! Don't forget to go to the less frequented parts as well.

Good luck.

Mick

In reply to Lobsbelow:
Many thanks for the advice, I've taken lots on board and it's given me food for thought.
I've seconded some of the suggestions before and do consider how I'd feel / manage leading it at some point, in some kinda graded order of 'I should have led that' to a 'not anytime soon' spectrum!

I'll let you know how I get on.

Black Hawk Hell Crack sounds like it would fit the bill and I'll take a look at Bishops Route.

I did manage to lead a horribly protected severe at my local crag today with a relaxed head. (It was the only route I did due to time constraints).
I'm definately not after something at the limit of my grade. I second VS if that helps put my question in perspective.
Thanks to everyone so far.

In reply to Ciderslider:


That's sound advice. Some mileage on things that won't necessarily trouble you overmuch builds confidence in your abilities and gear placements and will stand you in good stead later when you up your grade.

And don't go near Hargreaves Original. Or April Crack. Or Amazon Crack. And, despite my recommending Paradise Wall, that's probably best saved for later in the summer when you're going well.

And don't forget to have fun too.

T.

In reply to Pursued by a bear

I'm not about to go on Hargreaves Original except as a second.
Or Paradise Wall for that matter.
April crack I found ok as a second, slack rope, tinkers crack likewise at VS. But I'm not fooled by thinking I could lead them (but maybe not a million miles away on those two routes) that's why I asked for well protected severes, maybe HS too, low in the grade / well protected.
It's hard to explain (especially on a web forum) what stuff I feel comfy with at severe and what I don't. 'Well protected'is one such factor. No ankle snapper landings through hard starts is another.
I mentioned both those in my OP.
My jamming isn't brill but it's not appalling and it's coming on, hence why I said if it's well protected, I can give it a go.
It's always a bit shorthand on t'interweb, so sorry if I'm not clear.

In reply to Lobsbelow:

A selection of routes of the grades you requested might include;
Severe
Amazon Crack
Balcony Buttress
Bishop's Route
Black Hawk Hell Crack
Cave Buttress
High Neb Buttress Arete
Kelly's Variation
Overhanging Chimney
Right Hand Trinity
Twisting Crack
Wall End Crack

Hard Severe
April Crack
Byne's Route
Castle Crack
Christmas Crack
Gargoyle Variant
Manchester Buttress
Martello Buttress
October Slab
Paradise Wall
Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct

They don't all have easy starts, & some have less than adequate protection at the start. Check for yourself & when you have attacked most of these your leading should have improved/be less nervous. Good luck & have fun