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Chamonix easier rock routes and guidebook suggestions

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 mes32 18 May 2016
Going to be in Les Houches at the end of June and wondering what the best guidebook and areas are for some easy-life cragging and non-glacier/mountain multi pitch rock routes. Aiguilles Rouges obviously at top of the list. Would prefer to do trad rather than sport if possible but realize there'll probably be a lot of bolts around! There's a Rockfax book coming out for Chamonix but not until July so which other book(s) would people recommend? Looking for mid grade stuff and definitely not stuff with glacier approaches or need for big boots etc as we aren't there for that long - climbing is a bonus but not the primary objective of the trip so we wouldn't be able to tackle bigger routes from huts.

Thanks!
 Pids 18 May 2016
In reply to mes32:

you are aware of Les Gaillands? Cant get any easier cragging - you can do trad there, just everyone looks oddly at you

Les Gaillands
 ianstevens 18 May 2016
In reply to mes32:
There's a specific English language guide for the Aiguilles Rouges that can be purchased in the UK or out in Chamonix - loads of non-glacier rock routes, although most involve some sort of bolts, although the guide makes is clear what the bolt situation is for each route. Southeast Ridge of l'Index is a nice starter - super easy and near the lift station.

For the valley, there is a sport cragging guide (it's all sport) which covers everything, called Crag Climbs in Chamonix.

If you're up for some glacial appraoches (they're dead easy when there isn't any snow cover, just walk around the crevasses...) it might also be worth a look at the Envers des Aiguilles guide - routes tend to be big multipitch climbs rather than classic mountaineering, although they're a bit more serious than those in the valley and Aiguilles Rouges.

Enjoy!
Post edited at 12:07
 Shapeshifter 18 May 2016
In reply to mes32:

Valley cragging in this

http://www.joe-brown.com/13668/products/crag-climbs-in-chamonix-guidebook.a...

Aiguilles Rouges, there is a French guide that you could buy locally, but also this selected guide

http://www.joe-brown.com/21371/products/mont-blanc-and-the-aiguilles-rouges...



 Stephen3005 18 May 2016
In reply to Pids:

I have a spare day but I'll be on my own. Would you say I'll sound doing some of these solo?
OP mes32 19 May 2016
In reply to mes32:

Great, thanks all!

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