UKC

Marking routes

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 spartacus 19 May 2016

When climbing in Spain I notice they often write the name of the climb at the bottom on paint. Now that Rock Fax is so popular is this not something we could consider on the UK?

It's got to be safer than not knowing what route your on. It would not be permanent as it would fade over several decades.
Post edited at 19:48
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 SenzuBean 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

Grooved Arete on Tryfan, and Poor Man's Peuterey both have their initials scratched the bottom. I did find it handy to have the latter there, but if it wasn't there I probably would've still found the route. Plus isn't that part of the fun - getting scared mid-route thinking "oh crap, am I on the right route!!?"
1
OP spartacus 19 May 2016
In reply to SenzuBean:
I was thinking of doing a red, orange or green stripe up the route like they did when they did the photos in Rock Fax.
1
 pec 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

> When climbing in Spain I notice they often write the name of the climb at the bottom on paint. Now that Rock Fax is so popular is this not something we could consider on the UK?

Now that we've got Rockfax then why do you need graffiti to show you where to climb? That's what the guidebook is for.

> It's got to be safer than not knowing what route your on. It would not be permanent as it would fade over several decades.. >

The safest thing is to learn how to read guidebooks and read the rock, many UK routes wander about a lot so the graffiti will only get you to the start anyway, you still have to find your way after that.

2
abseil 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

> .......is this not something we could consider on the UK?

No, not necessary I think - topos are much better.
2
 GridNorth 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I call Troll
2
Removed User 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

It works well in some countries but the UK is a bit behind the curve on anything that's seen as infringing trad climbing. I could see it working in some places though.
7
 john arran 19 May 2016
In reply to GridNorth:

> I call Troll

Spoilsport
In reply to Aztec Bar:

Why not just put a route name tag on the lowest bolt on the route? I don't think paint would stick too well to grit.
 scooba2cv 19 May 2016
In reply to SenzuBean:

We got horrifically lost looking for the start of grooved arete, took about 2 hours from the campsite. I blame a minging hangover. We were about to turn back when we saw the GA so it worked for us at least...
 Chris Sansum 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

It would also be a good idea to paint a line all the way up the route. Going off route is dangerous and adding a line would eliminate the danger. Also something a bit more prominent to mark the belays, eg a big number 1 above the first belay and so on. And some kind of 'end' marker too, to make it clearer the route has finished. These kind of improvements would also help eliminate the need for guidebooks.
2
 Jon Stewart 19 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

Presuming this is genuine, basically, there are very different answers depending on the crag. I see no reason why the route names shouldn't be carved into the rock at Horseshoe Quarry (although I see no reason to climb at Horseshoe either). At Malham, I'm not sure. It's basically a very spectacular, beautiful climbing wall and the route names would make no difference aesthetically, nor to the climbing experience. But they absolutely should not be indicated at trad crags, where route finding is part of the experience.

> It's got to be safer than not knowing what route your on. It would not be permanent as it would fade over several decades.

Safety is not the paramount concern for how we manage the crags. It's the concern of the individual to make sure they're climbing safely (or competent enough to climb dangerously without cocking it up). If you're on the wrong route, that's your problem mate, read the guidebook!
5
 Billhook 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

You should learn to read a guide book properly before you start climbing
4
OP spartacus 20 May 2016
In reply to Chris Sansum:
I got the idea from going to hospitals where you follow a coloured line from reception to the area you want eg X Ray's.

Also climbers could wear the correct colour helmet for the route they should be on. That way beginners would wear a green helmet and get told if they are on something too hard.
Post edited at 07:13
1
 Otis 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I genuinely like the idea of painting a line up the route (a dashed line would use less paint, so reduce our carbon footprint). This would make route finding much simpler. However, to paint the line would probably need some long ladders fixing to the crag. To reduce the risks associated with climbing and to prevent gear placements eroding the crag, it would probably make sense to leave the ladders in place for future ascentionists to use. This would make re-painting the line easier in years to come too.

 DerwentDiluted 20 May 2016
In reply to Chris Sansum:

> It would also be a good idea to paint a line all the way up the route.

Via for art eh?
 Michael Hood 20 May 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Some trad routes already have their name carved at the bottom - e.g. Berty Gerwick @Ilkley
Post edited at 07:41
General Lee 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I think it is a great idea but what about also writing the grade of the climb at the bottom to prevent people getting themselves in trouble on routes and what about putting small arrows where the good gear placements are again in the idea of safety.
 Hooo 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

Just writing the name is a bit old fashioned though? They should paint on a QR code, so that anyone with the Rockfax app can check the route and get all the beta. Put another QR code on the belay and it can log the route for you too!
And any old fuddy-duddies who care about the onsite can honestly claim it didn't help them.
OP spartacus 20 May 2016
In reply to Dave Perry:
> You should learn to read a guide book properly before you start climbing

As a matter of fact I'm not very good at reading and have recently been diagnosed as Dislocksic. Is this your purile attempt at having a go a minority group who have a disability?

You must have a small brain. People like you make me sick.
Post edited at 08:40
 GridNorth 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

> Also climbers could wear the correct colour helmet for the route they should be on. That way beginners would wear a green helmet and get told if they are on something too hard.

I call double troll

Al
1
In reply to Aztec Bar:

No need. Far better to use augmented reality glasses and have your phone overlay all the necessary information over your view of the route as you climb.
1
Removed User 20 May 2016
In reply to Dave Perry:

> You should learn to read a guide book properly before you start climbing

That doesn't always work in huge sport crags where new routes are bolted quite often.
2
 Niall_li 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I actually came across a crag in Argentina where they had different coloured lines painted up each of the routes. Think it was used by the local army for training. They even had a ladder painted on it, which i'm assuming was where they hung an actual ladder, cause otherwise it was nails!
 d_b 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

The problem with that is that different books have different coloured lines.

How about a system where you scan the barcode on your book at the bottom of the route and a projector on the other side of the valley paints in the lines in the right colours?

For added modernity use lasers.
 nutme 20 May 2016
I like metal tags more. Paint looks like shit most of the time.
Something like that: https://db.tt/dQ0FLyiK
 d_b 20 May 2016
In reply to nutme:

How about something like this?

http://www.spectral3d.co.uk/Personal/pics/2012/honeymoon/honeymoon/p1040609...

If you added the FA and historical notes then you could make the guidebooks a whole lot smaller.
 stp 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I think it would be a great idea, particularly on limestone. It's been done at French crags too, since the eighties! On featureless walls like quarries it can be really hard to figure out which route is which from just the topo. Even if just some of the lines had names it would help a lot.

Probably not needed or desirable on other rock types like grit.
 stp 20 May 2016
In reply to abseil:

> No, not necessary I think - topos are much better.

Having both is better still.
 planetmarshall 20 May 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> ...But they absolutely should not be indicated at trad crags, where route finding is part of the experience.

Although for Trad routes you could colour code each crack so that you know which size cam to place. Presumably Black Diamond might be interested in some sort of 'Sponsor a Climb' scheme? I can see it now: "Black Diamond presents 'The File'"

 nniff 20 May 2016
In reply to SenzuBean:
> Grooved Arete on Tryfan, and Poor Man's Peuterey both have their initials scratched the bottom. I did find it handy to have the latter there, but if it wasn't .........


Regrettably the PMP scratched at the start of Poor Man's Peuterey is actually the start of Borchgrevinck, which rather gives the lie to the whole argument.

On the other hand, down at the Sea Walls at Avon in the 70's, and still just visible in the 80's, SOS had a dotted line painted up it. The guidebook description was simplicity itself. "Tear up the dotted line"

 Fredt 20 May 2016
In reply to nniff:

It would be technically possible to produce an App that tells you all about the climb when you point your smartphone at it.
1
 JLS 20 May 2016
In reply to Fredt:


^This is what the kids want. A head-up display that keeps you on track, perhaps also administering mind electric shocks if you stray on to "out of bounds" holds on eliminates.
 Trangia 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

> I got the idea from going to hospitals where you follow a coloured line from reception to the area you want eg X Ray's.

>

I'm crap at following those and find hospitals very confusing. Generally if you stop to ask a member of staff they don't know either, or can't speak English......
 Trangia 20 May 2016
In reply to Otis:

> I genuinely like the idea of painting a line up the route (a dashed line would use less paint, so reduce our carbon footprint). This would make route finding much simpler. However, to paint the line would probably need some long ladders fixing to the crag. To reduce the risks associated with climbing and to prevent gear placements eroding the crag, it would probably make sense to leave the ladders in place for future ascentionists to use. This would make re-painting the line easier in years to come too.

You forgot to mention railings for the descent route.........
 Michael Hood 20 May 2016
In reply to All:
you're all talking old technology. what we need is laser projected overlays. This will ensure that any changes like regrading can be coped with.

Also, you will have an app which you can use to set the level of beta that you want for your selected climb. The laser projector will cope with all this allowing different beta levels on adjacent climbs.

Edit, I'd missed a couple of posts above that are using newer technology.
Post edited at 15:54
ultrabumbly 20 May 2016
In reply to Fredt:

This technology could also lead to a new form of niche reality entertainment. Certain routes should be able to trigger audio recording and uploading based upon heuristic patterns of people asking for slack or a tight rope so as to capture the imminent tiff. Or, the phrase "just... reach up... and... use the next hold" when heard between couples who climb together should record everything until they get home. We've all seen these arguments start, I'd love to be a fly on the wall for some of the drives home.
 sebrider 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I thought these were nice when I visited North Glash quarry.

North Glash#photos

A bit of fun I thought. I would not want to see them everywhere though and definitely never any marking on trad routes...ever!

I'm not quite sure why I think it is okay for sport though?!

baron 20 May 2016
OP spartacus 20 May 2016
In reply to baron:
Briefly read it, it's amazing how the thread goings more or less exactly as this one has, with some good abuse and personal insults for good measure!

Still think it's a good idea though.
 dunnyg 20 May 2016
In reply to Fredt:

Why?
 Ramblin dave 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I don't think it's as daft an idea as some people are making out - we recently went to Wyndcliffe Quarry, and found that the guidebook mostly says things like "a line of bolts up some nondescript grey rock to the right of the previous line of bolts up some nondescript grey rock". That was normally as good a description of the route as anyone could have come up with, but it wasn't always that helpful, particularly when someone had stuck two extra lines in the gap since the guidebook was written.

It also seems a bit weird to treat it as a basic moral principle to avoid the SENSELESS DEFACEMENT of a PRISTINE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT like, erm, Horseshoe Quarry with SMALL BITS OF PAINT, despite being generally okay with drilling loads of holes in it and hanging bits of metal out of them.

OTOH it is probably still a bad idea in the grand scheme of things even in the places where it'd make sense locally, because you're opening the real possibility that someone with a can of paint and limited intelligence will assume that if it's been done at Horseshoe then it must be a normal thing to do, so it'd be a nice service to the community to do the same thing at Burbage South boulders or something.
 SenzuBean 20 May 2016
In reply to Chris Sansum:

> It would also be a good idea to paint a line all the way up the route. Going off route is dangerous and adding a line would eliminate the danger. Also something a bit more prominent to mark the belays, eg a big number 1 above the first belay and so on. And some kind of 'end' marker too, to make it clearer the route has finished. These kind of improvements would also help eliminate the need for guidebooks.

That's not enough though - you'd need hand and feet markers drawn on with little notes saying "layback this crack", "put your right foot here". Maybe some words of encouragement at opportune moments "go on mate - you can do it!", "only one hard move and you're over the difficulties", "why are you stopping to read, climb faster you silly git!" too.
 Pekkie 20 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

They tried it here but I think they over did it

The Breck#photos

 stp 20 May 2016
In reply to sebrider:

Hmmm. Got to say those are pretty rough compared those I've seen elsewhere. In France the names are painted on with really beautiful calligraphy. Also they never paint the grade on. The grade is a subjective opinion that can change over time where as the name never will.

> I would not want to see them everywhere though and definitely never any marking on trad routes...ever!

> I'm not quite sure why I think it is okay for sport though?!

I suspect it might be something more to do with the environment. It seems inappropriate in an unspoiled mountain setting but on a limestone crag, that's bolted and has a semi permanent covering of chalk, and probably climbers, a little bit of paint at the bottom is an insignificant addition. Also far less necessary on most trad routes as they tend to follow easily identifiable features like cracks or corners whereas the features on limestone tend to be less obvious or even non existent.
 stp 20 May 2016
In reply to Ramblin dave:

> It also seems a bit weird to treat it as a basic moral principle to avoid the SENSELESS DEFACEMENT of a PRISTINE NATURAL ENVIRONMENT like, erm, Horseshoe Quarry with SMALL BITS OF PAINT

One of the most useful thing to identify routes at Horseshoe is the huge 'NO CLIMBING' sign painted directly onto the rock. If you can find that you know exactly which routes are there because the sign is also marked in (some) topos. Unfortunately its fading now. I think route names painted on neatly, just a couple of inches high, would be a fine replacement. But I think it would require some skill to do the job well.
 andrewmc 20 May 2016
In reply to stp:

But if relaxed our mindless obedience to the 'rules', we might actually have to think about something rationally and come to some sort of community-agreed (hah) conclusion. Also something about the thin end of a wedge, 'tradition' and how sport isn't real climbing anyway.
 Misha 21 May 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

>I see no reason why the route names shouldn't be carved into the rock at Horseshoe Quarry (although I see no reason to climb at Horseshoe either).
Ha, that's brilliant Jon!

>At Malham, I'm not sure.
No need at Malham, just ask one of the regulars and they will tell you where the route you want is and all the beta for every move.
 stp 21 May 2016
In reply to Misha:

Well ultimately there's no need at all. But the thing is I think when done well route names could enhance certain crags. My memory of painted on names is at Buoux. There they made an effort to paint the names really beautifully and although Buoux is a beautiful wild place the route names didn't detract at all and it made figuring out where you were considerably easier.

On the other hand I think if done badly with a thick brush and poor lettering it could be really gross.


> just ask one of the regulars

Well chances are if there are any regulars there at all they'll be either climbing or belaying. Having the names painted on at Malham's featureless walls would be really helpful.
 Misha 21 May 2016
In reply to stp:
> Well chances are if there are any regulars there at all they'll be either climbing or belaying. Having the names painted on at Malham's featureless walls would be really helpful.

Or resting! But I agree, if done well it wouldn't be an issue.
 Bulls Crack 21 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

Safer? Why not mark the whole route in highlighter pen?
 Mike-W-99 21 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I've done a "trad" route in the Dolomites where even the gear placements were marked with paint.
 d_b 21 May 2016
In reply to Mike-W-99:

You win the thread! Which route was that?


 Mike-W-99 21 May 2016
In reply to davidbeynon:

Falzarego Towers. I kid you not!
 d_b 21 May 2016
In reply to Mike-W-99:
I imagine a few of the locals are a bit upset about that. I have come across a fair few pegs and the odd bolt on mountain routes in the dolomites but they seem to take the adventure side quite seriously in the main.

I will hand wave away via ferrata as that is arguably a completely different activity.
Post edited at 23:32
 3leggeddog 22 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I think painted route names and grades sport routes is a great idea though not too popular with guidebook publishers.

It keeps the crag up to date with its own insitu guide. Guides very quickly become dated as new lines are added, the third line of bolts left of the tree is now the sixth. It also spreads the load on the crag, people are more likely to try the new lines if the info is there.

Some of the painted pebbles on kalymnos are works of art.
1
 Billhook 23 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

I now think its a wonderful idea. We could have appropriate route descriptions and beta in appropriate places along the route.

"The next 10ft is gnarly"; and/or; "There's an excellent hold just above this one";, or even "You'll get a no8 walnut in this crack just here". complete with arrows, diagrams showing how to complete a move. Excellent idea. Bring it on!
 Pekkie 23 May 2016
In reply to Dave Perry:

Who was that well-known Peak district climber who was caught not so long ago marking holds LH, RH, LF, RF and gear placements Rock 8, Friend 3 etc?
OP spartacus 23 May 2016
In reply to Dave Perry:
> I now think its a wonderful idea. We could have appropriate route descriptions and beta in appropriate places along the route.

Nice to meet a kindred spirit. Some climbs (Middlefell Buttress for instance) have room for signage, 'End of Pitch one' for example and perhaps some chairs and drink holders,.People on here constantly complain of number two's on stances how about a portaloo on more popular climbs. ( i'm thinking pitch 4 Grooved Arete, Tryfan, just below Knights slab.)
Post edited at 14:21
 lone 23 May 2016
In reply to Aztec Bar:

How about fitting a tall pole with a loud siren and flashing lights at the of the climb so all other climbers will know if someone else is climbing a particular route, once the climber has reached the top fireworks go off and the national anthem is played to celebrate.

L
 Martin Hore 23 May 2016
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Presuming this is genuine........

Really?

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