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Adam Ondra - Dawn Wall

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 Jackwd 27 May 2016
Things in Yosemite next year could get very interesting! Will he go for a flash attempt I wonder? Bets on for how many attempts it'll take him! Seems like a totally different game to what he's used to, i'm going with 4.
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 beardy mike 27 May 2016
In reply to Jackwd:

I got excited when Chris Sharma went to have a look but then he didn't get involved - Ondra could be even more interesting. Quite apart from anything else how will all that burly sport climbing translate to glasses granite trad!
 Robert Durran 27 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

> I got excited when Chris Sharma went to have a look but then he didn't get involved - Ondra could be even more interesting. Quite apart from anything else how will all that burly sport climbing translate to glasses granite trad!

if Robbie Phillips can do it, I expect Ondra will manage too. Talent is talent. Of course he will need to learn a few crack techniques.....

 beardy mike 27 May 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

No doubt. The guy is awesome. Quite interesting reading all the comments attached to a video of him discussing it - a lot of American guys getting a bit defensive saying he's arrogant... I'm not sure he's arrogant, he just knows what he's capable of! I mean if you can work your way up to the level he has, learning to do a bit of crack climbing is hardly going to hold you back is it...
 kwoods 27 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

Yeah I was really surprised by the comments shouting arrogant, when I didn't get that at all from the clip. I can only suggest a rather large dose of American envy, given how foul and out if place so many of the comments were.
 Ian Patterson 27 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

> I got excited when Chris Sharma went to have a look but then he didn't get involved - Ondra could be even more interesting. Quite apart from anything else how will all that burly sport climbing translate to glasses granite trad!

He has some history that suggests he could turn his hand to it!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58371


 jsmcfarland 27 May 2016
In reply to Jackwd:

Americans calling other people arrogant? The irony meter is off the charts captain!!
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Donald82 27 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

There's a video somewhere of the tommy caldwell climbing with alex megos, who's a simlar level to ondra. Obviously caldwell's an outstanding climber, but the difference is absolutely huge - megos could cruise caldwell's limit. And obviously big wall's in yosemite are a particular skill, but my bet is Ondra will do it fairly easily (relative to caldwell). He's also got the knowing it can be done on his side.
Donald82 27 May 2016
In reply to jsmcfarland:
There's a certain arrogance in calling him arrogant... also ironic
Post edited at 17:27
In reply to Donald82:
Yeah, I guess that's the difference between 5.15a and 5.15c...

youtube.com/watch?v=wpsZtxObsz8&
Post edited at 17:58
Donald82 27 May 2016
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

That's the one! Tommy Caldwell, "I feel like an absolute amateur climbing alongside him"

 snoop6060 27 May 2016
In reply to Jackwd:

Yes but will ondra turn up with a entourage of Sherpas willing to rap down to the ground to get special finger tape? I'm guessing not so he's got no chance
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 beardy mike 27 May 2016
In reply to Donald82:

Oh yeah - that's exactly what I thought of when I was posting above. But the flip side of that was him struggling a bit more with the trad climbing on the midi. I don't think this is just about Ondra turning up for work - he's going to need to train his specific weaknesses for a wall because he won't want to get shut down by easier but alien climbing. That's what I mean - I think this will be super interesting. He's clearly the best climber in the world at the minute and its really cool that he's getting excited about really different challenges which are outside his normal sphere of operation. I was watching Jorg Verhoeven doing the nose earlier today and it just goes to show that those talents are super transferable - made me want to go back to Yosemite again! Might have to get some talent first though
 pavelk 27 May 2016
In reply to Jackwd:

In the interview fo Czech climbing magazine Montana he said he would like to climb Dawn Wall in 24 hour but he doesn´t think he is able to do it this year. It need (he says) few months of preparation.
By the way he has (probably) 9c project at Flatanger
 DWS gibraltar 27 May 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:
Crack technique ....He come from the Czech Republic man!
 SteveSBlake 27 May 2016
In reply to DWS gibraltar:

Quite...... I think he'll be able to turn his had to the cracks OK.

Bogwalloper 27 May 2016
In reply to Jackwd:

I think the result could be embarrasing for the two Yanks who were on the telly so much last year but Ondra will be humble and pretend it is harder than it actually is.

Wally
In reply to Bogwalloper:

It won't embarrass Tommy C in the least, I'd bet - he doesn't strike me as the type. I'd guess he'll just be psyched at someone else trying his route.

jcm
Donald82 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

True - He did find that a bit sketchy. Still, we bit of practice and ondra'll be grand.

If you put a few year's into a project I'm sure you'll get up something quite good

 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to Donald82:

I guess it's a bit like when the Huberbaum got into walls and just tore it up... If there's anybody who will be able to flash it in a day it's going to be Ondra... As for putting a few years into a project, I've got my project for the minute... hoping it won't take a few years but it's rather more local than Yosemite! Might be able to use the skills from it out in the Dolomites though - there's a few big walls there I'd like to pull myself up!
1
Bogwalloper 28 May 2016
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I was being tongue in cheek - but I do reckon Ondra will make it look piss.

Wally
1
 Offwidth 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

This is all a bit embarrasing. Flash it in a day? Are you drunk??
3
 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

Redpoint it, flash it, do it in a day don't really care... it'll be kool as beanz.
1
 jon 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

He'll have the motivation to get it done reasonably quickly - I'm guessing he wouldn't want that arse Trump to congratulate him on the telly...
1
 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to jon:

Haha. Only just better than Hilary congratulating him...
1
In reply to jon:

> I'm guessing he wouldn't want that arse Trump to congratulate him on the telly...

Trump wouldn't congratulate him, a foreigner stealing their flashes!

He also wouldn't approve of people scaling walls...
 Ian Parsons 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

> Haha. Only just better than Hilary congratulating him...

I think you mean Hillary.
2
 MischaHY 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

> it'll be kool as beanz.

Savvas???? Is that you? :O
 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Ha - indeed. Not Edmund from beyond the grave either.
 Ian Parsons 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

And a "Dislike" to boot. Bingo!
 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Yeah - good that... Got one for being excited about it too. Although maybe they didn't like kool as beanz...
 jon 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

Clearly the dislike was for you saying you prefer Trump to Clinton.
1
 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to jon:

I don't. It was a joke. Although they are both pretty unsavory characters... Hillary is the lesser of two evils by far, but it's the same old rubbish. And as the saying goes, rubbish in, rubbish out. Shame Obama can't do a third term, although I doubt he'd want it what with the tea party behaving the way they do...
1
 jon 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

It's worth having Hillary just to see Bill as First Lady.
 beardy mike 28 May 2016
In reply to jon:

I can see him in a flowery dress, smoking a joint and molesting the help...
 John2 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

One thing I never found out was whether the cigar he pleasured Monica with was Cuban. At the time, that would have been a dual transgression.
 FactorXXX 28 May 2016
In reply to John2:

One thing I never found out was whether the cigar he pleasured Monica with was Cuban. At the time, that would have been a dual transgression.

Excellent work UKC!
A thread about Adam Ondra climbing Dawn Wall has turned into one about the Monica Lewinsky cigar incident.

I wonder if she was an inhaler or not...

 Brass Nipples 28 May 2016
In reply to beardy mike:

> .. it'll be kool as beanz.

You are Mountain Spirit and I claim my £5

 JJL 29 May 2016
In reply to Donald82:
> That's the one! Tommy Caldwell, "I feel like an absolute amateur climbing alongside him"

I find it hilarious that he's used to advertise rockshoes, when he seems to revel in doing just about everything footless!


(Yes, I laugh rather easily; don't judge me)
Post edited at 08:33
 beardy mike 29 May 2016
In reply to Lion Bakes:

You got beat to your fiver further up the thread. And besides, to win the fiver I'd actually need to be Savvas Still it's a damn fine saying and one which I have appropriated.
 Brass Nipples 29 May 2016
In reply to FactorXXX:

> One thing I never found out was whether the cigar he pleasured Monica with was Cuban. At the time, that would have been a dual transgression.

> Excellent work UKC!

> A thread about Adam Ondra climbing Dawn Wall has turned into one about the Monica Lewinsky cigar incident.

> I wonder if she was an inhaler or not...

It was the asthma made her cough.

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