UKC

Mix and match- half ropes

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 zimpara 28 May 2016
How many of you mix half ropes? Ie I have a perfect alpine 8.3 and a mammut meteor 8.3. And favour the mammut when setting off.
2
 Baron Weasel 28 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

If needs must. I have also used a half and a single. Matching ropes is always nicer though as they feed through the belay with the same resistance.
 AlanLittle 28 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

It used to be normal practice for each climbing partner to bring his/her own half rope. Different lengths was a pita.

I'm talking 80s/90s here.
 Doghouse 28 May 2016
In reply to AlanLittle:

> It used to be normal practice for each climbing partner to bring his/her own half rope.



Isn't that still the norm?
In reply to zimpara:

I did most of my climbing back in the day

I'm fairly sure matched ropes would have been talked about down for weeks after it was spotted
 AlanLittle 28 May 2016
In reply to Doghouse:

Most people I climb with these days own pairs, and we decide in advance who's bringing the ropes this time.
1
 springfall2008 28 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Sounds fine to me if they are the same diameter, I'm not sure I'd want to belay two different thickness ropes - sounds awkward?
 bpmclimb 28 May 2016
In reply to springfall2008:

> Sounds fine to me if they are the same diameter, I'm not sure I'd want to belay two different thickness ropes - sounds awkward?

If they're both half ropes the difference in diameter will be minimal. Assuming you have good double rope belaying technique, a slight difference in thickness is not awkward, and is not something to worry about
 Misha 28 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:
The only issue is it's confusing if the colour is the same/similar. Otherwise, half and half of any diameter is fine.
In reply to Misha:

> The only issue is it's confusing if the colour is the same/similar. Otherwise, half and half of any diameter is fine.

My memory is that it was rare for ropes to be so similar that they were hard to tell apart

But it was essential that both parties agreed which of the many colours in the sheath was the one that would be refered to.

This was to avoid moments along the lines of

"Watch me on yellow while I get this runner on green.."

"they've both got some yellow. When you say yellow do you mean they one that is also red and orange or the more purple one"
 Dervey 28 May 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Regularly use an8.5 and an 8.3. No dramas. As one poster has said, sussing colours is more important!
 bpmclimb 28 May 2016
In reply to John Clinch (Ampthill):

It's quite a good wind-up to use elaborate colour names for your ropes. If your leader says "take in on orange" (say), you can feign confusion because they didn't call it "Autumn Splendour". I particularly like insisting on calling my green half rope "Secrets of the Forest".
 jsmcfarland 28 May 2016
In reply to bpmclimb:

Thanks for the laugh I'll have to use that one next time I need taking on the Amethyst rope =P
 springfall2008 28 May 2016
In reply to Misha:

Good point, I could never climb with a blue and a green rope as I get them mixed up all the time. Luckily I normally climb with pink (or red?) and blue (which I call green all the time or is it green which I call blue - I still don't know)!
 TobyA 28 May 2016
In reply to bpmclimb:

I had rope that I'm sure was called "coral" on the label. I always quite liked yelling "take in on coral!"
OP zimpara 28 May 2016
In reply to TobyA:

This makes me feel like my climbing buddy and I are infact rather normal with our crag humour then! Coral and aqua yarS yarS
2
 cathsullivan 29 May 2016
In reply to Doghouse:

> Isn't that still the norm?

In my experience, yes.
 Brass Nipples 29 May 2016
In reply to Misha:

> The only issue is it's confusing if the colour is the same/similar. Otherwise, half and half of any diameter is fine.

"Slack on blue"
"Noooo, the other blue"

It did happen it you both bought your ropes in the same year.

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