UKC

West Vale (Greetland Quarry)The Traverse Of The Gods (f6C)
Sad to see that someone has seen fit to improve holds with cement and chisel at West Vale.
Yes it's a bit of a hole but the place has it's devotees, especially the traverse which now has had a crucial section "improved". If you can't do the move, get better or just leave it alone.
Anyone care to come along to defend their actions?

In reply to cheese@4p:

Which part of the traverse has been improved? It all seemed ok last time I was there, maybe 2 weeks ago.

'Bit of a hole....' Never!!!!

In reply to cheese@4p:

This is bad! West Vale is a great little evening training spot. Climbers should know better.
There is enough vandalism going on at the moment by others without us wrecking the crags ourselves! (Hetchell and Heptonstall in the last week or so)

Andy

In reply to Andrew Wilson:

Andy
The cruxy move towards the right end. The poor pocket now has a sika cemented lip and the poor starting foothold has been chipped to improve it. Takes it down by a tech grade or so.
Greetland Quarry is a fabulous place with a long history as a local training ground. Whoever has done this is totally ignorant of climbing culture.

In reply to cheese@4p:

Some the cases I know were just isolated climbers not fully aware of climbing ethics and one famously came clean and apologised and offered to fix things. The damage is not good but lets not demonise before we know what actually happened. Yorkshire is covered in chipped holds so its easy for someone operating in isolation to think it is OK.

In reply to Offwidth:

W V is a top venue for training - ironically of course, much of the traverse was 'created' with a hammer and chisel 30 years ago. Much of the identifying graffiti has gone too, so along with Mick's work clearing the trees and crap, the place is a top spot these days. There are enough locals frequenting the place to minimise the chances of rogue chippers, or catch them at it.

In reply to Steve Wetton:

Thats good to hear.. ( it was starting to look a bit sad during my last visit just before the YMC guide came out). I think we just need to remind people why new chipping is bad and repair the recent damage.

In reply to Offwidth:

Strange goings on......

As cheese@4p says, a couple of holds on the crux section of the rh wall have been messed with. Looks like they've been chipped, then 'repaired' with resin. All totally unnecessary. (And as I said earlier, ironic, given that the whole route was created artificially. We simply have to now eliminate these improved holds.) It is also clear that there are people/person new to the place using it this year who are marking up all the holds and covering the walls with more chalk than you can shake a stick at. Took me half an hour yesterday to brush the worst of it off.

This is a fabulous little local venue. If you see any of the more ignorant members of our community either armed with either hammer and chisel or marking instructions and arrows all over the rock, please have a word.....

Steve

In reply to Steve Wetton:

Yes, do it without, that was my plan too. Going over this evening to try it. I will certainly be having a word if anyone is up to anything anti-social to the rock.
West Vale is a gem of a place and has enough problems without climbers trashing it.