UKC

Metatarsalgia from slab climbing

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 The Norris 10 Jun 2016
I'm currently halfway through a 3 month climbing trip, and so far I've been climbing a lot of slabs (I'm not very good and there hasnt really been much easy stuff that isnt a slab!). Over the last fortnight or so ive developed pain around the large joint of my big, and second toe, which Google tells me is metatarsalgia. Most google info suggests you get it from impact sports, but I presume it has developed as ive been putting the majority of my bodyweight through my big toes repeatedly for 6 weeks (i have fallen twice, but not badly).

Im in a quandry as this is my once in a lifetime trip and i really dont want to stop climbing. I was wondering whether anyone else has had this condition, and could advise whether resting for a week or so would relieve the pain? I am currently able to just about tolerate the pain, and ibuprofen gel does seem to help, so i could battle on as is, but if a week or so 's rest would help in the long run, i would commit to it.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks. Simon

1
In reply to The Norris:

No idea but stick the foot in iced water at the end of each day whether you climb or not
1
 zimpara 10 Jun 2016
In reply to The Norris:

Change your shoes. I went from velcroevolves to Katana lace ups and that fixed it
1
OP The Norris 10 Jun 2016
In reply to zimpara:

I have just gone back to an old pair of shoes, im hoping that will do the trick. How long did it take to improve?
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 ianstevens 10 Jun 2016
In reply to The Norris:

> I'm currently halfway through a 3 month climbing trip, and so far I've been climbing a lot of slabs (I'm not very good and there hasnt really been much easy stuff that isnt a slab!). Over the last fortnight or so ive developed pain around the large joint of my big, and second toe, which Google tells me is metatarsalgia. Most google info suggests you get it from impact sports, but I presume it has developed as ive been putting the majority of my bodyweight through my big toes repeatedly for 6 weeks (i have fallen twice, but not badly).

Does Google tell you to go to a Doctor and get it actually checked out? Given that you're (I quote) "not very good" I guess you've never worn rock shoes at such a high frequency (i.e. all day every day) for a long time if ever. Not trying to sound condescending/patronising, as I doubt (m)any of us do the same volume of climbing in "normal" life as when on a climbing trip, especially a long term one. It may just be that you've aggravated something in your toe (again, see my first point re: an actual doctor) from having spent so long with your feet in the rather unusal rock shoe position without prior conditioning.
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 Niall_li 10 Jun 2016
In reply to The Norris:

Have a look at taping for turf toe, it'll give your big toe joint a bit of support at least. If it's nothing serious (caveat not a doc or physio) a ibuprofen and a good few days off might give it a chance to settle down. I always found rolling a frozen bottle of water along the bottom of my foot to the end of the big toe quite good.

Hope it all clears up and you enjoy the rest of your trip!
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 stevied01 10 Jun 2016
In reply to The Norris:

Flask strapping for big toe and looking for taping for capsulitis/plantar plate injury. Dr Google will funk your health.

Also semi compressed felt 3mm stuck as a met pad, just behind area (or similar improvisation).

Ice, restrict in required bare foot walking, in favour for approach shoe or trainers.

Should be alright m8

Steve
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 Dave Garnett 10 Jun 2016
In reply to stevied01:

> Flask strapping for big toe and looking for taping for capsulitis/plantar plate injury. Dr Google will funk your health.

> Also semi compressed felt 3mm stuck as a met pad, just behind area (or similar improvisation).

> Ice, restrict in required bare foot walking, in favour for approach shoe or trainers.

> Should be alright m8


I hope that made more sense to the OP than it did to me!

Metatarsalgia is a great word though. Even better if you shorten it to arsalgia, meaning a pain in the arse.
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 John H Bull 10 Jun 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Ergo 'meta-arsalgia': beyond a pain in the arse...

To the OP... Something similar has bugged me seriously for 3-4 years, though I've never had a diagnosis. Never much swelling, just pain! Main joint, big toe. It hit home when, on a trad route within my grade, the pain got so intense I decided to jump off and take the fall rather than wind it out (no matter, it was only Wilton, but it did knock my confidence). Slabs went from being my speciality to things to be rationed, which was demoralising (I'm crap too, and always climb/ed better on the slabby stuff). Cracks became more nightmarish even than slabs.

Sensible advice? Good-fitting lace-up shoes help, as does ibuprofen gel. Lay off for a bit...but you're not going to do that on a long trip are you... Maybe take your 5-tennies for seconding on long routes.
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 DaveHK 10 Jun 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> Even better if you shorten it to arsalgia, meaning a pain in the arse.

Proctalgia?

 Dave Garnett 11 Jun 2016
In reply to bullybones:

> To the OP... Something similar has bugged me seriously for 3-4 years, though I've never had a diagnosis. Never much swelling, just pain! Main joint, big toe.

Certainly that's a sensitive area if you've been cramming your feet into rock shoes a lot. I've always thought it was the first warning sign of bunionisation. How straight are your big toes?
 Dave Garnett 11 Jun 2016
In reply to DaveHK:

What's the secret of your popularity with the phantom disliker?
 radddogg 11 Jun 2016
In reply to ianstevens:

> Not trying to sound condescending/patronising,

But you're doing a fantastic job of it.

Typical UKC, bash the noob
 jon 11 Jun 2016
In reply to The Norris:

You could try changing your climbing style a bit. Presumably you are climbing fairly square on to the rock and favouring your big toes/points of your shoes? Try turning sideways a little and using the outside edges of your feet. An added bonus to this is that you have more reach from an outside edge.
 John H Bull 11 Jun 2016
In reply to Dave Garnett:
How straight are your big toes?
Dead straight. Bendy in the middle obviously.
Bunionisation - organisation of the workforce in the baking industry?

OP The Norris 12 Jun 2016
In reply to The Norris:

Thanks for all the responses. A few days off and it does seem a little better, although I've yet to try it on rock.

My big toes are very very slightly pointing inwards now you mention it, although I wouldn't say abnormally so.

I will go to the docs, probably when I get back if it doesn't improve with rest. I haven't been so far as they'll probably either tell me to rest it, or send me for further examination, which would tie me to one area for a period of time, which I can't really do when travelling.... Hence me asking for general advice on here.

Weve got the dolomites coming up soon, so I guess via ferrata could be a great option for some good mountain days instead of climbing.

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