UKC

Climbing in the future.....!

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 The Potato 15 Jun 2016
Im thinking a bit further ahead than next weekend, like a decade or more, what will be the next BIG 'thing'?
Perhaps toproping from an autobelay drone? (the drone would ofcourse take photos and video and upload it to whatever social media website you want as nobody will have real friends any more).
Or one size fits all auto expanding cams with a wire sling that automatically extends to minimise rope drag?

what do you think?
 GrahamD 15 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Tough wearing guidebooks that fit in the pocket ?
1
OP The Potato 15 Jun 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

i think we should at least be realistic about our predictions
 althesin 15 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

I don't think anybody will be needing cams, everything will be bolted.
3
 Greasy Prusiks 15 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:
Virtual reality climbing-

"Dude it was rad. I was like 15 meters above the last auto save going for this crazy dyno".

"Sick man. I fell off the sofa playing three pixel slab yesterday, almost shat myself."
Post edited at 19:21
 d_b 15 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Antigravity. Everything is mod when you only weigh 5kg.
 SenzuBean 15 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

- synthetic setae protection devices. That Japanese hardest trad climb is the perfect candidate for this, and would become safe as houses with it. ETA 2033.
- carbon-based carabiners. 3x lighter than steel, 5x stronger. ETA 2025.
- augmented reality crag topo app. Just point your phone at the crag, and it will overlay the route and any points of interest. ETA 2020.
- auto-clip sports quickdraws. Just climb past, and your rope will be clipped automatically - no need to pull rope up anymore. Will allow the climbing of climbs much harder than exist now - which will be the reason it becomes popular despite its extra faff to set up initially. ETA 2024.
- 3D printed climbing walls. Will allow much more fluid setting, and will allow an exact copy of famous climbs to be made. Want to try Action Directe but can't be arsed checking the weather - go to your local climbing wall, they have it there. ETA 2028.
 radddogg 15 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

There won't be any climbing in the future because it will all be polished like glass
 John Kelly 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Attitudes to adventure activities may change if effective antibiotics are no longer available
 Oogachooga 16 Jun 2016
In reply to radddogg:

> There won't be any climbing in the future because it will all be polished like glass

Possibly even Stanage. We will have to dry tool it on bolts.
1
 DoctorYoghourt 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Why do you think there's a future?
Removed User 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:
Head pointing E9 and calling it news if the last 20 years are anything to go by.
Post edited at 01:01
 spartacus 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Oogachooga:
Stanage could be re-set by laser. Cut back into rock eliminating polish. Some routes could be improved.
Post edited at 07:39
 Dandan 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Carbon nanofibre ropes, a 1000m reel would weigh 150 grams, hold 50kn, fit in your pocket and have zero rope drag.

I can't see any downsides to effectively stringing up a cheesewire across a rock face...
 gribble 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Due to the popularity impact of climbing being in the Olympics, land owners have realised there is money to be made from climbers. Peak Park charge £10 a day to use the crags, wardens patrol the honeypot crags.
Donald82 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Steep indoor routes with stepped net protection, so you don't need a rope.

Net protection for highball indoor bouldering.
 ianstevens 16 Jun 2016
In reply to John Kelly:

> Attitudes to adventure activities may change if effective antibiotics are no longer available

Increased tin-foil hat sales will make it necessary for leaders to wear sunglasses at all times when bringing up their seconds.
1
cb294 16 Jun 2016
In reply to SenzuBean:

> - 3D printed climbing walls. Will allow much more fluid setting, and will allow an exact copy of famous climbs to be made. Want to try Action Directe but can't be arsed checking the weather - go to your local climbing wall, they have it there. ETA 2028.

When I am daydreaming about leaving my job that is actually one idea am thinking about. What about a climbing wall featuring exact copies of a few world famous routes? Action Directe from Frankenjura (or Alfred Rott Ged.-Weg, the first route marked by a red point by Kurt Albert), Separate Reality from Yosemite, maybe FRFM from Spain (most of the classics are much too long), a few grit routes as they tend to be short.

Probably still too big for 3D printing, but laser scanning the crag and then re-building it to measure should be easy. One could then fill the space in between with regular bolt on, re-settable routes. In fact, Sport Scheck in Dresden used to have copies of two Bielatal sandstone towers in their staircase, where you could test climbing kit on top rope. Unfortunately this fell victim to a recent redesign of the whole shopping centre.

CB
 spartacus 16 Jun 2016
In reply to cb294:

'Astro' climbing pants would eliminate the need to do number ones or twos in the hills.
It would also eliminate the dilemma of do can I force one out at the service station or cafe on way to climbing.
 tonanf 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

When I started climbing 11 years ago, I was a bit obsessed. I dreamed (in sleep), of a furore where people flew on space ships to an alien planet, where they slept in huge space warehouse hangers with bunk beds (like a giant bunk house). The alien planet had various mountain and cliff ranges of different difficulties, the cliffs and mountains were of different colours to indicate their difficulty. I think the ground may have been terra formed. The technology was applied to the future world's rather than us and our kit.
 ScottTalbot 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Moon climbing will be more literal.
 springfall2008 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Health and safety executive decides it's too dangerous and makes climbing illegal. Second hand climbing gear is swapped on the black market. Everyone gets fat and dies young!

or....

Finally climbing makes it to the olympics, as a result local councils and nature reserves get money to spend on cleaning up crags and bolting them. Outdoor sports climbing gets really popular and all the crusty old people like me have to find a new Trad venue!
 JHiley 16 Jun 2016
In reply to tonanf:

That sounds like the result of a pretty serious furore!
 Oogachooga 16 Jun 2016
In reply to Donald82:

> Steep indoor routes with stepped net protection, so you don't need a rope.

> Net protection for highball indoor bouldering.

I like that a lot!
 planetmarshall 16 Jun 2016
In reply to cb294:

> Probably still too big for 3D printing, but laser scanning the crag and then re-building it to measure should be easy.

I would envisage something a bit more like e-ink, but built up in layers which change in response to an electric current. Walls become much more dynamic as routes change their configurations in real time.

Back in the real world, having just returned from the Depot in Manchester I'd settle for some effective climate control.
cb294 17 Jun 2016
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Back in the real world, having just returned from the Depot in Manchester I'd settle for some effective climate control.

I thought we were discussing realistic proposals!

CB

 andrewmc 17 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Some kind of sufficiently advanced technology (and thus indistinguishable from magic) will make all falls safe (whether that be an drone-based autobelay that follows you around, boulder mats than can catch you from a 50m fall and hop around at the bottom of the crag, personal suspensors). The differences between trad, sport and top-roping will then slowly disappear apart from a few craggy traditionalists who insist on doing everything the 'old-fashioned' way with the carbon fibre carabiners, incredibly strong and lightweight carbon nanotube cords, synthetic setae shoes and fill-any-crack expanding protection they bought 10 years ago.

As with today, nobody will actually climb in the 'old-fashioned' way (no rubber boots, no chalk, no/limited harnesses, not nuts, cams or hexes...)
 proandras 17 Jun 2016
In reply to GrahamD:

I can imagine smart glasses or contact lenses as guidebook. Just look at the route and the glasses show highlight the holds, the protection places, the suggested moves. Optional setting is available to adjust the hints for your personal gear, body mass, height, arm spead, and the requested level of helping.
 Goucho 17 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:
Someone finally onsights Indian Face.

'Working' a route is replaced by its correct terminology 'frigging'.

Highballing with a mat becomes less popular, as scientific study makes direct corrolation with size of genitals.

Widespread panic amongst the bouldering community, as survey proves wearing a Beanie hat severely reduces the chances of getting laid.

UKC registers it's longest ever thread - 'After top roping Christmas Crack 17 times, and spending a further 2 years working it above 12 mats, can I still claim the onsight?'- receives over 186,000 responses.

Drone 'Selfies' begin to cause havoc at Stanage Popular.

New 5 foot sit start climbed at Magic Wood by a skinny man at night with no shirt on. He reckons it could be 8b+ and has writen a 40,000 word blog and made an hour long film about the first move.
Post edited at 11:13
 Goucho 17 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

Kenton Cool makes his 78th ascent of Everest via the South Col, and as well as launching the latest in his range of 'Kenton Kan' high altitude cookware, also begins filming his 4th series of 'Can't Bivi, Won't Bivi" for Channel 5, featuring Anthony Worrel Thompson and Selina Scott.
 Mattilda 17 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

The trouble is that the obvious solution is technology, something daring and new (although i'm liking Johnny Dawes's no hands climbing and think there should be an addition to the Rockfax app for it) or a person that climbs really really hard, i'm not sure that's it though.

I think the future is more about the culture of climbing, becoming more focused on the joy and experience of it and caring more and more about conservation.

We live in a world where more and more people are climbing, gear companies want to sell more stuff and pro athletes want to be sponsored. This is great, climbing is a really life enhancing activity (sport?), spangly light gear is nice and having athletes to inspire people is pretty cool. but I can't help but think that the next logical advance is a shift to people becoming more and more interested in adventure, the mental (and spiritual) sides of climbing, our inter-relationship to the landscape (and it's conservation) and there being a focus in both climbing and wider media in the joy and experience of things. The great gear and increased skills of young climbers is something which allows us the luxury of this. For a glimpse into what i'm trying to say have a read of old copies of 'the surfer's path', it's mostly about people on bits of plastic in the sea with odd bits about about saving sealife, saying no to sewage, etc, doesn't sound amazing but it's a beautiful and inspiring magazine to read.

The other big questions are how will we adjust to the likely increases in costs of travel and and what is the future environmental capacity of climbing in the UK. In the future will cheap RyanAir flights still be a feasible option for a quick climbing holiday and how do we respond to the challenge of a country with a much greater population, and more people climbing?

The other cultural aspect is that maybe in the UK climbers should be nicer. There are loads of nice climbers out there, but I think as a community we need to try harder. On this forum last week there was a chap who innocently asked what a baselayer was and the replies weren't what you'd expect from a group of people who should be welcoming someone new to the outdoors into their world and acting as ambassadors; this could have been that person's one and lasting experience of rock climbers.

I think in the future it would be great if everyone (i.e. every climber/mountaineer/hillwalker etc) also got more involved with the world of conservation. If we care and love the amazing places we visit we need to not only celebrate this in books/websites/magazine, but we need to integrate ourselves more with the world of conservation, go out and join local conservation groups and whilst its not that we don't do this already, I think it has to be at the very core of what it is to be involved in climbing or mountain walking.
 JamButty 17 Jun 2016
In reply to Pesda potato:

3PS and FBD will be bolted and 7b.....


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