UKC

I've got to go to a black tie ball next week, and I've been to the suit hire place and they want to charge me £45 for a suit that doesn't fit. I've got a 32 inch waist, and a 42 inch chest, so even their 'tailored fit' shirts are too baggy around the waist if the fit my chest. Where can I get a shirt that will fit me properly all over?

In reply to Happeuss:
Would you have time to have one altered to fit you at the waist?

It's possibly what I'd be pondering.

In reply to Happeuss:

I have adjusted shirts for my husband before, it's pretty easy to take in some darts to make it fit nicely. Do you have a sewing machine? If not, most high streets have a shop which does alterations.

In reply to Happeuss:
Ebay, although you might not have time now. Abercrombie and Fitch do nice close fitting shirts and ebay's flooded with them. Unfortunately they're called muscle fit but if you can get over something so ridiculous being printed in your collar then they're great.

In reply to Happeuss:

Hi Happ, look for American brands like CK, their 'slim' fit is for an athletic build (big shoulders and chest, small waist), European and high street brands go with the assumption that a big chest means a big paunch, which leaves meat wedges like me and you tucking all the baggy leftovers down our trousers and into our socks...

BW
Alx

In reply to Happeuss:

Forgot to add, John Lewis do CK slim fit but you have to dig for them and ask for help with finding the fit

In reply to Happeuss:
Depends on just how fancy a do it is.

Getting shirts that fit all over is a bit of a nightmare.

If it's a very very fancy affair, you might feel a bit underdressed unless you have a wing collar and either studs or 'fake studs' on your shirt. If this is what you're after, then your choice is a bit limited, and you may end up needing to buy and get alterations done. As noted already, darting a shirt is an easy same-day job for a local alterations tailor. Depending where you are, should cost £5-20. Buy a shirt that fits you on the collar, shoulders and sleeve length. The waist can then be brought in. I would, however, advise to avoid this kind of shirt unless you're convinced that this is a very very smart affair - wing collars look awful unless they are the proper detachable sort, and since you certainly won't be getting one of those, it's worth trying to avoid. If this route is necessary for you, any of the major shirt shops like Charles Tyrwhitt, TM Lewin or Hawes and Curtis will have something, as will larger department stores and most hire shops.

If it's only a bit fancy (ie paid ball for fun, not a spendy charity gala or awards ceremony of any sort), then you're much better off in an ordinary white shirt with double cuffs, which is the more traditional choice for black tie. The best bet for these is Charles Tyrwhitt. If you can get to one of their bigger branches, they sell each shirt in a choice of lengths and in three different fits, and they're very cheap. You'll need their super slim. Remember to get a shirt with sleeves long enough to reach the base of your thumb and a 'skirt' that covers your bum. Get something in a plan white fabric with a generous collar, and use the collar tabs to keep it flat when worn. They also sell online, so you can check their size guide, crack out your tape measure and order a well-fitting shirt in time.

You might already be all over this, but you can also improve black tie a lot by buying the bow tie. get a self-tie. Will take 5 mins to learn how to tie it on the web, and looks massively better than a tired rental fake bowtie.

Polish your shoes, keep your jacket fastened when standing, put a white handkerchief in your pocket, and even in a dodgy hire suit you'll look much better than a lot of the folks there.

In reply to Happeuss:

I'm the same size as you and I find the 'slim fit' shirts in Charles Tyrwitt fit well, as do the 'tailored fit' in M&S. I hate baggy shirts as they always crease up round the waist, but I also think overly-tight shirts (see the expert presenters of any football show) look pretty ridiculous. Stretch your arms in front of you and the shirt shouldn't ride up (or the buttons pop!).

In reply to Happeuss:

Hello, I don't know where about you live, but I always get my suits, shirts and ties from a store called gieves and hawkes, the quality is next to non and I have still have clothing from there from 8-9 years a go

In reply to Happeuss:
TM Lewin - I'm a similar size to you (30/38) and their slim fit are great.

Also, Daniel Hector are good - John Lewis/TK Maxx usually have them.

In reply to Happeuss:

I just love it that you put this post on a gear forum!

If it is any comfort, "black tie" is both baffling and expensive for girls, especially for middle-aged girlies like me on whom the classic "little black dress" looks ridiculous.

In reply to Happeuss:

Feel your pain.

If you've got a Matalan or Primark near you check them out. The first place I go these days. Too frugal to splash on the likes of CK , TM Lewin and the likes.

Might be worth a look for a suit there too. I got a "disposable" suit on sale in Matalan for £25 4 years ago. Still gets some wearing today.

In reply to Happeuss:

Nothing to add except don't get a wing collar unless you want to look like a cheap cocktail waiter.

It's a normal collar for black tie.

In reply to neuromancer:

No necessarily......... You might look like a teenager at school ball.

To the OP, Neuromancer is right, no wing collar. A dress shirt should have a bib though, which is traditionally marcela or pleated. I'd say marcela as pleats can look a bit seventies.

In reply to Happeuss:

Again, nothing top add except forget about getting one from next. The forearms on their tailored shirts are extremely tight.

In reply to Happeuss:

Same 'triangular' shape as you, 30 waist, 40 chest.
I've found Reiss slimfit shirts not to have yards of excess material around the waist.
For a ball, I would wear wing collar, red bow tie and cummerbund. Standard collar and black tie for reception, awards ceremony etc.

In reply to Happeuss:

T M Lewin do a "fitted" and a "fully fitted" (also known as "super fitted"). The latter is the best fit for our kind of shape that I've managed to find. They do a Marcella dress shirt, which is available at House of Fraser:

http://www.houseoffraser.co.uk/TM+Lewin+Marcella+Plain+Fully+Fitted+Dress+S...

The bad news is that it's 45 quid and is still a little voluminous on me, but I need a 17.5 inch collar.

In reply to Happeuss:


I'm not quite sure where you're coming from on this as one the one hand your bitchin' about £45 for an ill fitting suit hire but then it's quite easy to have shirts/suits made to measure but realistically not by next week. As for cost £350/£400 for a mid-range shirt less if you order a few at a time subject to the minimum order.

I'd always advice people to get one really good quality suit as over the years it will pay for itself over and over again.

In reply to Happeuss:

I have a similar problem. I've got a few nice white shirts from Next, their signature slim fit range isn't bad, although not perfect - to get one that fits I have to go small enough that I'll never get the collar done up (doesn't bother me too much).

The best fitting shirt I own is one I bought on holiday in Verona. Italian men know how to wear a shirt - I get so frustrated with high street shops in the UK I'd consider going back to Italy purely on a shirt shopping trip.

Having read the above I'll have a look in TM Lewin next time.

In reply to Happeuss:
Mr TC is similar dimensions to you, and he goes for the T M Lewin classic fitted ones. (slimmer than their 'slim' fit, which one of their salesmen once rather snarkily described me as 'for people who would like to be, but not as tight as the 'super fitted', which look a bit 'hey look everyone, I've been to the gym!' to me) Places like Next are no good for him because he's 6' 4" and their shirts don't have long enough arms.