UKC

I'm looking take a new sport climber out next weekend. He's done plenty of bouldering but no outdoor sport. Which crag would be best? I've narrowed it down to Giggleswick South, Moughton Nab and Castleberg Crag but haven't been to any of them before. Preferably looking for routes in the 4-6a range on decent rock. Suggestions?

In reply to Rob Kelly:

Gig South is the go-to choice for most. Good rock, short routes, not steep. It's OK. I haven't been to the others but last time I drove past Castleberg it still had big letters spelling out TOUR OF YORKSHIRE or something (which was ages ago?) suspended across the whole crag so I don't think it was accessible.

In reply to Rob Kelly:

Robin Proctor scar; it has a very pleasant outlook and would give a good day at 6a and below. Nothing wrong with the other options either but this would be my suggestion.

In reply to Rob Kelly:

Castleberg is the best for an easy day out. Short walk in and a fair selection of 4 to 6a routes imp

In reply to Rob Kelly:

Almscliff is a good gentle introduction to gritstone climbing 😀

In reply to Rob Kelly:

High Stoney bank Stony Bank (Stoney Bank) is worth checking out, or Stone Cold Buttress here Giggleswick South#maps . Castle berg is shit, lose rock and a bit of a bad reputation.

In reply to Graham Booth:

Best sandbag I've seen in a while. 😊

In reply to Rob Kelly:

For beginners I think Giggleswick North is really good shout as the routes are really short! I have a friend who is absolutely terrified of leading and will always shy away from it, but they have still managed to lead a route there.
My first ever experience of sport climbing was at Castleberg Crag and i'd definitely say from a beginners perspective that Giggleswick North is way better.

In reply to chrismcd:

The rock at Castleberg does sound a bit dodgy. I'll take a look at Gig North in the guide. I'll probably just get him seconding at first but hopefully he'll be leading before too long.

In reply to Graham Booth:

Almscliff for sport yeah? Cool, I'll take my drill.

In reply to Rob Kelly:
Knock yourself out, you may get it applied to your head though!

In reply to Rob Kelly:

Much more I would have thought at Gigg South than North, Stoney Banks nice location, Proctors better than the others but beware the odd loose bit - as per all easier limestone really

In reply to Rob Kelly:
just watch out at giggs southh - lots of easy routes and some unpolished sectors, but some of the sectors are extremely polished, and some sectors arent that well bolted for beginners. though if they will only be toproping the bolts arent an issue

In reply to Rob Kelly:

maybe Malham? or Kilnsey ☺

In reply to pebbles:

Giggleswick South polished? You haven't lived mate!

In reply to Bulls Crack:
hee hee well it hasn't reached the heights of ravens dale or stoney yet I admit...but some of the older sectors are still a lot more polished than my van. sector Swan for starters.

In reply to zmv:


Totally unsuitable I'd say. Very little to do even in the high 6s let alone 4 - 6a.

In reply to stp:

A good attempt at the UKC pass time of providing the total opposite to the OP request within a the shortest number of posts...13 I think.