UKC

abseiling from No.4 Gully cairn

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 Andy Nisbet 20 Jun 2016
Folks,
Another guidebook question. On Ben Nevis, it used to be common to abseil from the No.4 post into No.4 Gully. But now there is a cairn, has anyone abseiled from it? I suspect the ropes might get stuck but maybe not if it's been concreted well and it ices up. Or does a bollard often get made, as above Easy Gully on Aonach Mor?
Cheers, Andy Nisbet
 thommi 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

In my experience there is usually a bollard, but most people just down climb no?
 Tony the Blade 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

If you don't know Andy, then no-one does! You're the font of all Ben Nevis knowledge on here

fwiw, I have only down climbed it, but every winter there are a series of bollards that one could choose from.
OP Andy Nisbet 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Tony the Blade:

> If you don't know Andy, then no-one does! You're the font of all Ben Nevis knowledge on here

Me, no. I don't go to Ben Nevis much nowadays. And not since the cairn was built. Previously, sometimes I climbed down, sometimes I abseiled from the post. Just finding out if anyone abseils from the cairn.



 AlH 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Hi Andy, I've abseiled from it when its partially buried. With very shallow snow around it I've found ropes liable to stick unless you were to add some tat. Late in the season it can disappear or almost disappear and be unavailable as an anchor. Its overall shorter than the old post so buries more easily.
 Pids 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Have only down climbed since the post removal / cairn built, haven't abbed off the cairn or bollard
 nniff 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Down-climbed only for me
 luckyjim 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Abbed off it this winter but there was in situ cord around it so ropes wouldn t get stuck !
 rif 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

downclimbed, as have others on the days I've been there
 GrahamUney 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Hi Andy. I used to use the post, but now either abseil off a snow bollard, or lower people down off stomper/footbrake, then climb down myself. I've not tried abbing off the cairn as it looks to me like the ropes would get stuck.

Cheers,

Graham Uney
OP Andy Nisbet 20 Jun 2016
In reply to GrahamUney:

Thanks folks. I think I'll not mention abseiling. Obviously folk still can but I'll leave it up to them.
 NottsRich 20 Jun 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

FWIW I haven't abseiled off it, but instead resorted to a bollard when the top of the cornice was too steep for me to downclimb. I wouldn't risk abseiling for risk of getting the ropes stuck, the 'mortar' between the blocks is quite recessed in places. Most of the time it's a downclimb.
 rossn 11 Aug 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

There's usually a snow bollard. Never tried to use the cairn.

RN
 Tricadam 10 Sep 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Abbed off it in Feb in a storm when it was rather a long drop over the main cornice. Well iced so no problem retrieving rope. I can imagine it wouldn't be a good plan in thinner conditions though.
OP Andy Nisbet 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Tricadam:

I've come to the conclusion that it's no longer a regular abseil point and will be out of the next Scottish Winter Climbs. Thanks everyone.
 jonnie3430 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

This is annoying, I spoke to the guy while he was building it and explained how the previous post was used and asked if there was going to be a pigs tail, or other such point that could be used to abseil of it. I explained that there would probably be a garland of tat and old crabs around it (visual and safety issues), which would be avoided by a fixed point. He thought it a good idea and was going to find out if one could have been included.

I can see how the design isn't suitable for that type of loading though, so a bit more thought could have gone into it.
1
 Jamie B 11 Sep 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

I've never seen any tat appear on it. A fixed point isn't really necessary here or anywhere else - if there's enough snow to create a cornice there will be enough to dig a bollard.
1
 jonnie3430 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Jamie B:

Quicker to chuck a sling around it than dig a bollard.
1
 Jamie B 11 Sep 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

Quicker to clip a bolt...
1
 jonnie3430 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Jamie B:

Indeed, I'd rather the post wasn't there, but as it is, it may as well be as useful as it can be.
 Tricadam 15 Sep 2016
In reply to Jamie B:

Very true, and there's an argument to be made for that. But in proper winter conditions (rather than silly Alpine ones where, admittedly, the cornice persists) the cairn is sufficiently iced/snowed up to allow easy retrieval of an ab rope, particularly as no knot will be required since a single 50m rope easily gets you over the cornice.

Re snow bollards, an argument against installing bolted cairns is that it will keep this incredibly useful and somewhat lost art alive. Nowt more bomber than a well dug bollard!
 zimpara 29 Oct 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

Put a bolt in the cairn?
1
 gavmac 29 Oct 2016
In reply to Tricadam:

Yes Adam, I do recall it being a long drop over the cornice. Your face as I disappeared over the edge was comic!

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