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Morning all,
A thread intended as an antidote to all things EU. Just have a relaxed natter about all things vertical. What climbing have got up to lately? What climbing have you got planned? What's your dream climbing trip? Anything goes really.
Personally I did a really nice indoor route yesterday- a chimney type route with loads of precision bridging moves and small foot holds. Superb finish as well, the holds just run out and you have to step out over the drop into some pure friction bridging before a final lunge for the finishing jug.
At the weekend I'm planning to head out onto the cornish sea cliffs and enjoy a break in the rain! Also testing out my new cam picked up cheap for 30 quid at go outdoors.
How about everyone else? What climbing is getting you going at the moment?
A thread intended as an antidote to all things EU. Just have a relaxed natter about all things vertical. What climbing have got up to lately? What climbing have you got planned? What's your dream climbing trip? Anything goes really.
Personally I did a really nice indoor route yesterday- a chimney type route with loads of precision bridging moves and small foot holds. Superb finish as well, the holds just run out and you have to step out over the drop into some pure friction bridging before a final lunge for the finishing jug.
At the weekend I'm planning to head out onto the cornish sea cliffs and enjoy a break in the rain! Also testing out my new cam picked up cheap for 30 quid at go outdoors.
How about everyone else? What climbing is getting you going at the moment?
21
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Great starter!
I've returned to climbing now that my two boys are growing older, so i've been enjoying getting them out on the rocks, mainly in Wales/Peak District.
I mainly like long multipitch mountaineering routes, and so does my totally fearless eldest son who is 10, i feel like i've really lucked out there
Unless he loses interest I see a bright future for us as a pair, in time we'll be doing harder stuff and then i'll be able to take him Winter Climbing when he is older.
In the meantime, i like to get out with the local club too so that i can do some harder stuff.
I'm envious of your trip to Cornwall, what a place! Bosigran just has to be one of my favourite locations ever. So atmospheric.
Great starter!
I've returned to climbing now that my two boys are growing older, so i've been enjoying getting them out on the rocks, mainly in Wales/Peak District.
I mainly like long multipitch mountaineering routes, and so does my totally fearless eldest son who is 10, i feel like i've really lucked out there
Unless he loses interest I see a bright future for us as a pair, in time we'll be doing harder stuff and then i'll be able to take him Winter Climbing when he is older.
In the meantime, i like to get out with the local club too so that i can do some harder stuff.
I'm envious of your trip to Cornwall, what a place! Bosigran just has to be one of my favourite locations ever. So atmospheric.
6
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Very little at the moment - too much baby care.
Mostly grabbing 20 minutes here and there to do a bit of traversing in order to prevent my arms from completely atrophying.
I managed to fit in a bit of easy soloing in the avon gorge last week, which scratched an itch but got me in severe trouble with the boss when I owned up...
Very little at the moment - too much baby care.
Mostly grabbing 20 minutes here and there to do a bit of traversing in order to prevent my arms from completely atrophying.
I managed to fit in a bit of easy soloing in the avon gorge last week, which scratched an itch but got me in severe trouble with the boss when I owned up...
4
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Nice!
Was at Froggatt last night, lovely atmosphere, nice people and good climbing. Just recently got back from the Pass with young daughter, next trip is Cornwall for a week or two. In the meantime, I'll be battering around the Peak removing skin and feeding the midges.
Nice!
Was at Froggatt last night, lovely atmosphere, nice people and good climbing. Just recently got back from the Pass with young daughter, next trip is Cornwall for a week or two. In the meantime, I'll be battering around the Peak removing skin and feeding the midges.
4
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Guessing you got a metolius cam? Was looking at them in the sale, went for 5 new friends at £26 each. Lots of sport climbing recently. Lots of 6c redpointing and a very exciting 6a+ onsight route at cheddar.best I've done there.
The Only Fear Is a Flat Planet (6a+)
Good thread. I was beggining to think the forum had turned into a political forum what with a climbing video being deleted and a million vicious politics threads not.
Guessing you got a metolius cam? Was looking at them in the sale, went for 5 new friends at £26 each. Lots of sport climbing recently. Lots of 6c redpointing and a very exciting 6a+ onsight route at cheddar.best I've done there.
The Only Fear Is a Flat Planet (6a+)
Good thread. I was beggining to think the forum had turned into a political forum what with a climbing video being deleted and a million vicious politics threads not.
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I revisited the Alps last year, after a break of 15 years, rekindled my passion again and the prospect of more Alpine trips to come takes me through the dull monotonous days
> Morning all,
> What climbing have got up to lately? What climbing have you got planned? What's your dream climbing trip? Anything goes really.
I revisited the Alps last year, after a break of 15 years, rekindled my passion again and the prospect of more Alpine trips to come takes me through the dull monotonous days
2
In reply to LG-Mark:
Sounds good fun. Young kids can be completely fearless! They never look down and then start wondering how good the belay is.
I'm in my 20s now and still climb with my dad so I'm sure you've got many trips ahead of you. Just keep it fun!
In reply to OP, have a good time in Cornwall.
Sounds good fun. Young kids can be completely fearless! They never look down and then start wondering how good the belay is.
I'm in my 20s now and still climb with my dad so I'm sure you've got many trips ahead of you. Just keep it fun!
In reply to OP, have a good time in Cornwall.
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Sadly lacking for me in the climbing department at the moment. Having an 8 week old daughter and 3 yr old boy combined with living in a 'flat-locked' area of the country. (flat-locked, if it wasn't obvious is a word I just invented, it is to hills what 'land-locked' is to the sea)
I don't even seem to be able to make it to the wall once a week.
As for climbing plans, it seems that Alex Honnold left North Wales without doing the ultimate solo link up of ordinary route on Idwal slabs, Cneifon Arete and something easy on Tryfan. So that kind of leaves it open for me to go up and do one weekend. I'll be hailed the next talented, ballsey young thing and sponsored by The North Face immediately.
Sadly lacking for me in the climbing department at the moment. Having an 8 week old daughter and 3 yr old boy combined with living in a 'flat-locked' area of the country. (flat-locked, if it wasn't obvious is a word I just invented, it is to hills what 'land-locked' is to the sea)
I don't even seem to be able to make it to the wall once a week.
As for climbing plans, it seems that Alex Honnold left North Wales without doing the ultimate solo link up of ordinary route on Idwal slabs, Cneifon Arete and something easy on Tryfan. So that kind of leaves it open for me to go up and do one weekend. I'll be hailed the next talented, ballsey young thing and sponsored by The North Face immediately.
15
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I'm planning to head up to the Peak for my first go on grit soon. Does anyone have any advice or stories about what to expect on my first trip? I hear the climbing is quite ballancey with super good friction?
I'm planning to head up to the Peak for my first go on grit soon. Does anyone have any advice or stories about what to expect on my first trip? I hear the climbing is quite ballancey with super good friction?
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
A refreshing thread.
Tonight is another trip to the wall, they have a beautiful 7- line I've been trying to do without 'cheating,' there is one bastard move that really makes you swing/ barn door, so I keep bouncing my foot off the wall to stay on it. I'll figure it out one day. Tomorrow is the institute summer party which I can't be too drunk at as I have a shooting competition Saturday morning. That afternoon though, me and the Miss are taking the van out to make up for a woeful lack of climbing last weekend (Rain and an exploding cooling system didn't help) and having a long weekend at a few of the awesome granite slabs nearby, providing the weather holds out for us.
A refreshing thread.
Tonight is another trip to the wall, they have a beautiful 7- line I've been trying to do without 'cheating,' there is one bastard move that really makes you swing/ barn door, so I keep bouncing my foot off the wall to stay on it. I'll figure it out one day. Tomorrow is the institute summer party which I can't be too drunk at as I have a shooting competition Saturday morning. That afternoon though, me and the Miss are taking the van out to make up for a woeful lack of climbing last weekend (Rain and an exploding cooling system didn't help) and having a long weekend at a few of the awesome granite slabs nearby, providing the weather holds out for us.
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Had several days out over the last week, all with great partners. Mostly avoided the midges and have managed to be off the crag just as the rain has started. Not done any of my hard project routes but they will get done soon and then another set will appear. Climbing is the most enjoyable thing there is and doing it at whatever grade with good people, some beginners, some super experienced, some super hard, is all part of that enjoyment. You could not wish for a more social sport.
Had several days out over the last week, all with great partners. Mostly avoided the midges and have managed to be off the crag just as the rain has started. Not done any of my hard project routes but they will get done soon and then another set will appear. Climbing is the most enjoyable thing there is and doing it at whatever grade with good people, some beginners, some super experienced, some super hard, is all part of that enjoyment. You could not wish for a more social sport.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Excellent timing as I'm just now back from the crag I've been developing in our village on the rare occasions I've found time to do so, and I just redpointed the first ascent of 'Ça plane pour moi', 8a, the hardest route on the crag. Yay!
Excellent timing as I'm just now back from the crag I've been developing in our village on the rare occasions I've found time to do so, and I just redpointed the first ascent of 'Ça plane pour moi', 8a, the hardest route on the crag. Yay!
5
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I got the first logged flash of a recently retro-bolted route at Kilnsey:
Achilles Heel (Original) (6c+)
Does that mean I get to rename it???
I got the first logged flash of a recently retro-bolted route at Kilnsey:
Achilles Heel (Original) (6c+)
Does that mean I get to rename it???
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Nice thread.
Had a trip to croyde last weekend to learn to surf - awesome sport. Got my first taste of sea cliff adventures at baggy too.
After breaking into trad last year I'm starting to feel super comfortable above gear now.. looking on track to consolidate hvs this summer. The term summer is used loosely.
Plus I'm in talks with robin oleary to get some regular indoor coaching scheduled after hitting a plateau at 6c.
All in all this year's on track but I haven't done much in the mountains yet unfortunately
Nice thread.
Had a trip to croyde last weekend to learn to surf - awesome sport. Got my first taste of sea cliff adventures at baggy too.
After breaking into trad last year I'm starting to feel super comfortable above gear now.. looking on track to consolidate hvs this summer. The term summer is used loosely.
Plus I'm in talks with robin oleary to get some regular indoor coaching scheduled after hitting a plateau at 6c.
All in all this year's on track but I haven't done much in the mountains yet unfortunately
Post edited at 10:55
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Recently lead my first VS (clean onsight!) on a cracking little route on Shorncliff. Really keen to get out and do more, and properly consolidate HS.
Unfortunately due to house moving and all my regular partners being away, I probably won't be able to get out this weekend. I'll just have to console myself by planning and dreaming of our first Chamonix trip in a month!
Recently lead my first VS (clean onsight!) on a cracking little route on Shorncliff. Really keen to get out and do more, and properly consolidate HS.
Unfortunately due to house moving and all my regular partners being away, I probably won't be able to get out this weekend. I'll just have to console myself by planning and dreaming of our first Chamonix trip in a month!
7
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Just indoor stuff at the moment, another finger injury forced a lay-off early in the year. Just after I got back into it my back "went", put me in bed for a week on diazepam.
I've been climbing and cycling again only in the past couple of weeks but with a holiday looming I'm being careful. After the holiday my wife says I can resume being an idiot!
Just indoor stuff at the moment, another finger injury forced a lay-off early in the year. Just after I got back into it my back "went", put me in bed for a week on diazepam.
I've been climbing and cycling again only in the past couple of weeks but with a holiday looming I'm being careful. After the holiday my wife says I can resume being an idiot!
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Not long back from a fantastic week long trip with mates from the NLMC that included the Lakes, Ben Nevis and Skye.
Currently enjoying the memories of this and looking forward to the next time back on the ridge and/or the Ben.
Off to the wall tonight to catch up with my regular partner and plot our next trip to the Wye Valley.
Not long back from a fantastic week long trip with mates from the NLMC that included the Lakes, Ben Nevis and Skye.
Currently enjoying the memories of this and looking forward to the next time back on the ridge and/or the Ben.
Off to the wall tonight to catch up with my regular partner and plot our next trip to the Wye Valley.
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Currently in Lofoten, working on the new guidebook. The weather is being slightly 'unhelpful' but it remains a fantastic part of the world and we are getting some climbing done,
Chris
Currently in Lofoten, working on the new guidebook. The weather is being slightly 'unhelpful' but it remains a fantastic part of the world and we are getting some climbing done,
Chris
8
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Good thread.
Since becoming a dad I have switched from trad to sport and this year has been all bolt clipping in the peak quarries and i'm climbing my best since 2009!
Highlights this hear so far have been,
Hilti Sound System (7a)
Exo6 (7a+)
Brandy Snaps (7a+)
Really enjoying the non faff approach of turn up, climb, clip, lower off.
Just need the Cheedale Cornice to dry off now.....
Good thread.
Since becoming a dad I have switched from trad to sport and this year has been all bolt clipping in the peak quarries and i'm climbing my best since 2009!
Highlights this hear so far have been,
Hilti Sound System (7a)
Exo6 (7a+)
Brandy Snaps (7a+)
Really enjoying the non faff approach of turn up, climb, clip, lower off.
Just need the Cheedale Cornice to dry off now.....
Post edited at 12:34
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Spent most of 2015 avoiding serious climbing and spent a lot of time in the mountains.
Scotaland, Lakes, Chamonix and a fantastic trip to the Dolomites.
I told myself at the start of this year that I would try and get stronger again, so have spent time at the wall and plenty of bouldering. Its nice to see the benefits from training and have enjoyed trying hard!
That said, its just not the same as being out in the mountains away from everything.
I have made a list of climbing related goals that I want to achieve before I am 30. So slowly working towards them, will be a happy man if i can get them all done!
Nice thread. Great to see what everyone all ages and abilities are up to!
Ben
Spent most of 2015 avoiding serious climbing and spent a lot of time in the mountains.
Scotaland, Lakes, Chamonix and a fantastic trip to the Dolomites.
I told myself at the start of this year that I would try and get stronger again, so have spent time at the wall and plenty of bouldering. Its nice to see the benefits from training and have enjoyed trying hard!
That said, its just not the same as being out in the mountains away from everything.
I have made a list of climbing related goals that I want to achieve before I am 30. So slowly working towards them, will be a happy man if i can get them all done!
Nice thread. Great to see what everyone all ages and abilities are up to!
Ben
Post edited at 12:44
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Lots of trad trips recently. Fell off more often than I wanted to, but learned some lessons at least and didn't get hurt. Heading out this weekend to North Wales to bag crappy Hewitts, teach/practice nav and wild camp at some nice Llyn (TBD, either by Glyder Fawr or Moel Siabod). I need to gather QMDs for ML assessment, and find it very hard to turn down climbing for walking! 2 of the people in the group are worried about drizzle (the forecast is wonderful... no clue what they're afraid of) and so are planning to exit the wild camp and walk back to the hut.
This really annoys me (I guess it's because I feel like they don't trust my judgement as a leader), but little do they know that by choosing a cosy night at the hut, they'll miss out on the best peak (Moel Siabod), a bit of scrambling, breakfast at Moel Siabod Caffi - and because we'll have to a 45 minute detour to pick them up - we probably can't do any climbing on Sunday before heading off (it was already going to be cutting it fine, but losing an hour is probably the death knell to the plan).
Then the plan is to consolidate at HVS and stop effing falling off them. On the plus side, when I lead an E1 recently (totally by surprise) it has put me a lot closer to my goal of leading Cenotaph Corner before I leave the UK. I think if I can consolidate at HVS, and get on diet and exercise plan, and train better and harder - I'll have a decent shot at it.
Lots of trad trips recently. Fell off more often than I wanted to, but learned some lessons at least and didn't get hurt. Heading out this weekend to North Wales to bag crappy Hewitts, teach/practice nav and wild camp at some nice Llyn (TBD, either by Glyder Fawr or Moel Siabod). I need to gather QMDs for ML assessment, and find it very hard to turn down climbing for walking! 2 of the people in the group are worried about drizzle (the forecast is wonderful... no clue what they're afraid of) and so are planning to exit the wild camp and walk back to the hut.
This really annoys me (I guess it's because I feel like they don't trust my judgement as a leader), but little do they know that by choosing a cosy night at the hut, they'll miss out on the best peak (Moel Siabod), a bit of scrambling, breakfast at Moel Siabod Caffi - and because we'll have to a 45 minute detour to pick them up - we probably can't do any climbing on Sunday before heading off (it was already going to be cutting it fine, but losing an hour is probably the death knell to the plan).
Then the plan is to consolidate at HVS and stop effing falling off them. On the plus side, when I lead an E1 recently (totally by surprise) it has put me a lot closer to my goal of leading Cenotaph Corner before I leave the UK. I think if I can consolidate at HVS, and get on diet and exercise plan, and train better and harder - I'll have a decent shot at it.
3
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I am enjoying a return to trad climbing. Having spent a few years focussed on bouldering, it's nice to come back to the ropes a much better and stronger climber and be able to climb things that would previously have been out of my league. Off to Tremadog this weekend. Isn't climbing just grand?
I am enjoying a return to trad climbing. Having spent a few years focussed on bouldering, it's nice to come back to the ropes a much better and stronger climber and be able to climb things that would previously have been out of my league. Off to Tremadog this weekend. Isn't climbing just grand?
4
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I wonder if my possible new route will be in it. My mate was going to contact you but I think he never got around to it.
It's in the new routes book at the cafe anyway.
I wonder if my possible new route will be in it. My mate was going to contact you but I think he never got around to it.
It's in the new routes book at the cafe anyway.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I'm feeling mega psyched and have been having a great few weeks. Ticked my Malham project a few weeks ago, just before the crag turned into an oven. Had a couple of weekends getting up on some high crags in the Lakes in cracking weather. Then spent last week with loads of psyched women at the WICM in North Wales, culminating in a brilliant day at Gogarth where I managed to take a sizeable lob off The Moon (though luckily not quite far enough to have to get my prusiks out) when my fingers uncurled half a move away from easy ground. Obviously a bit gutted not to onsight it but falling off is good for the head so I'm taking it as a positive and it means I'll have to go back and do this amazing route again.
Weather permitting I'm back to Wales this weekend and then probably the Lakes next weekend
I'm feeling mega psyched and have been having a great few weeks. Ticked my Malham project a few weeks ago, just before the crag turned into an oven. Had a couple of weekends getting up on some high crags in the Lakes in cracking weather. Then spent last week with loads of psyched women at the WICM in North Wales, culminating in a brilliant day at Gogarth where I managed to take a sizeable lob off The Moon (though luckily not quite far enough to have to get my prusiks out) when my fingers uncurled half a move away from easy ground. Obviously a bit gutted not to onsight it but falling off is good for the head so I'm taking it as a positive and it means I'll have to go back and do this amazing route again.
Weather permitting I'm back to Wales this weekend and then probably the Lakes next weekend
4
In reply to Ben_Climber:
Sounds good but you're right it's not the same as the mountains.
What sort of thing is on your list to do before 30?
Good luck with the training.
Sounds good but you're right it's not the same as the mountains.
What sort of thing is on your list to do before 30?
Good luck with the training.
In reply to Will Hunt:
I might see you there. Climbed at Trem for the first time in years last week and remembered that it's actually really good! You camping near the crag?
I might see you there. Climbed at Trem for the first time in years last week and remembered that it's actually really good! You camping near the crag?
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Had a good session on a sport project at Dumbuck on Tuesday night - figured out all the moves, made some good links, might go soon - my partner ticked the final jug on Awaken too, so a good, but not successful session.
Hopefully having a rematch tomorrow with a trad route I failed on in the autumn, then maybe some trad at a Dirc Mhor or Creag Dubh on Saturday if the weather plays ball.
Had a good session on a sport project at Dumbuck on Tuesday night - figured out all the moves, made some good links, might go soon - my partner ticked the final jug on Awaken too, so a good, but not successful session.
Hopefully having a rematch tomorrow with a trad route I failed on in the autumn, then maybe some trad at a Dirc Mhor or Creag Dubh on Saturday if the weather plays ball.
1
In reply to davidbeynon:
If it is in the New Routes book and I can identify it, it should go in.
Out of interest, where was it?
Chris
If it is in the New Routes book and I can identify it, it should go in.
Out of interest, where was it?
Chris
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Had a brilliant evening down at Chee Tor on Tuesday night with a few good friends. After not going down there at all last year remembered that it is a law unto itself down there - dusty, often unpositive rock, wiggy gear, plants growing everywhere, real route-finding challenges often. Only climbed Approaching (E3 5c) and Splintered Perspex (E3 6a) but both felt pretty chunky!
Looking forward to getting back down there again!
Heading over to North Wales again this weekend which I'm really looking forward to! Got Cockblock (E5 6b) and Rimsky Korsakov (E5 6a) on the hitlist (both at opposite ends of the grade) but if I do just one I'll be a happy man! It will also be good to catch up with a couple of friends I haven't seen for a while.
Love getting away at the weekends and catching up with old friends (both crags and people) and forgetting about the real world! Hope everyone manages to get out this weekend and has a great time!
Had a brilliant evening down at Chee Tor on Tuesday night with a few good friends. After not going down there at all last year remembered that it is a law unto itself down there - dusty, often unpositive rock, wiggy gear, plants growing everywhere, real route-finding challenges often. Only climbed Approaching (E3 5c) and Splintered Perspex (E3 6a) but both felt pretty chunky!
Looking forward to getting back down there again!
Heading over to North Wales again this weekend which I'm really looking forward to! Got Cockblock (E5 6b) and Rimsky Korsakov (E5 6a) on the hitlist (both at opposite ends of the grade) but if I do just one I'll be a happy man! It will also be good to catch up with a couple of friends I haven't seen for a while.
Love getting away at the weekends and catching up with old friends (both crags and people) and forgetting about the real world! Hope everyone manages to get out this weekend and has a great time!
3
In reply to Chris Craggs:
It's on the Svolværgeita, which is why I find it hard to believe it is a new route. Wasn't in either guide though and Thorbjorn said he didn't know of anyone who had done it when we tracked him down and asked.
It's basically a variation of the 1910 route, taking a very lichenous and slightly loose groove to the left of the start. Meets the proper line again around the top of the first pitch.
Led by John Proctor. Hard to grade as it was dry when led and wet when seconded but I would hazard a guess at somewhere around VS.
It's on the Svolværgeita, which is why I find it hard to believe it is a new route. Wasn't in either guide though and Thorbjorn said he didn't know of anyone who had done it when we tracked him down and asked.
It's basically a variation of the 1910 route, taking a very lichenous and slightly loose groove to the left of the start. Meets the proper line again around the top of the first pitch.
Led by John Proctor. Hard to grade as it was dry when led and wet when seconded but I would hazard a guess at somewhere around VS.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
So if got a few mountains on there:
Eiger, Matterhorn, Trois Monts Route, Killimanjaro and Elbrus.
Some classic problems in Magic wood and Font as well, all around the 7a-b range. Working my way through as many of the Top 50 routes in the East and West grit books as I can.
I do love Trad but it terrifies me, been climbing for about 8 years now and never fallen or rested of a piece of gear!!
So if got a few mountains on there:
Eiger, Matterhorn, Trois Monts Route, Killimanjaro and Elbrus.
Some classic problems in Magic wood and Font as well, all around the 7a-b range. Working my way through as many of the Top 50 routes in the East and West grit books as I can.
I do love Trad but it terrifies me, been climbing for about 8 years now and never fallen or rested of a piece of gear!!
1
In reply to climbingpixie:
Camping at Eric's with the LMC. Going to climb with a buddy who is local, hoping to have a day on Trem and a day at Hyll-drem I think.
Camping at Eric's with the LMC. Going to climb with a buddy who is local, hoping to have a day on Trem and a day at Hyll-drem I think.
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Nothing; tedious health things, as ever.
However, tomorrow I see a man about my right hand which is affected by MS (nothing that can be done there), and a Dupytren's contraction affecting the ring and little fingers and a flexor tendon injury affecting the middle finger. It may be that, after some treatment for these last two, and time, I can get some grip back in my right hand and if so, easy rock beckons. Or it may be beyond reasonable recovery; I'm essentially feeling neutral about this, it'd be great to get some movement and flex back in three fingers on my right hand but it might also be too far gone. I'll know more tomorrow.
Other than that I'm going through old photos remembering good times!
T.
> What climbing is getting you going at the moment?
Nothing; tedious health things, as ever.
However, tomorrow I see a man about my right hand which is affected by MS (nothing that can be done there), and a Dupytren's contraction affecting the ring and little fingers and a flexor tendon injury affecting the middle finger. It may be that, after some treatment for these last two, and time, I can get some grip back in my right hand and if so, easy rock beckons. Or it may be beyond reasonable recovery; I'm essentially feeling neutral about this, it'd be great to get some movement and flex back in three fingers on my right hand but it might also be too far gone. I'll know more tomorrow.
Other than that I'm going through old photos remembering good times!
T.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Now into our 'off' season with temps into the 30s (40s some places); if we had a reasonable indoor option we'd take it. As we don't we were outside today making the best of it, but having to aim our sights even lower than usual. Managed a bunch of 5's, a couple of 6a+, a 6b and played around on a 7b eliminate on top-rope. I'm sure your heart bleeds...
Now into our 'off' season with temps into the 30s (40s some places); if we had a reasonable indoor option we'd take it. As we don't we were outside today making the best of it, but having to aim our sights even lower than usual. Managed a bunch of 5's, a couple of 6a+, a 6b and played around on a 7b eliminate on top-rope. I'm sure your heart bleeds...
2
In reply to davidbeynon:
I am not on with that section at the moment but I have just added it,
Chris
> It's on the Svolværgeita, which is why I find it hard to believe it is a new route. Wasn't in either guide though and Thorbjorn said he didn't know of anyone who had done it when we tracked him down and asked.
> It's basically a variation of the 1910 route, taking a very lichenous and slightly loose groove to the left of the start. Meets the proper line again around the top of the first pitch.
> Led by John Proctor. Hard to grade as it was dry when led and wet when seconded but I would hazard a guess at somewhere around VS.
I am not on with that section at the moment but I have just added it,
Chris
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
not climbed in too long and when I have in the last couple of years it's been one optimistic wall trip followed by not being able to.
certainly this year so far it's been due to money woes, my motorbike being nicked 2 months ago so having no transport, and seemingly being ill constantly with one thing or another (just getting over another 2 week coldy flu thing...think probably at least partially down to stress). When you add in family stuff there's not much chance left.
HOWEVER should get the payout for my bike from insurance barstewards with in a week or so, can get new bike and money will be a better situation finally (not great, but a little to play with). If I can just stay healthy (can get back on the job hunt too so hopefully can relieve a lot of the other stress, though feck knows how that'll go) I can get out on the hills. Itching to do it now.
Off to Metal Days festival in Slovenia (a week of metal bands camping in a hilly valley by a river with a beach. Just outside Tolmin. Think I'm gonna get my running going again (again with the ill) and hopefully get some nice long runs while we're there in a nice environment.
To OP - jealous of cornish sea cliffs in your imminent future. Best climbing ever!
not climbed in too long and when I have in the last couple of years it's been one optimistic wall trip followed by not being able to.
certainly this year so far it's been due to money woes, my motorbike being nicked 2 months ago so having no transport, and seemingly being ill constantly with one thing or another (just getting over another 2 week coldy flu thing...think probably at least partially down to stress). When you add in family stuff there's not much chance left.
HOWEVER should get the payout for my bike from insurance barstewards with in a week or so, can get new bike and money will be a better situation finally (not great, but a little to play with). If I can just stay healthy (can get back on the job hunt too so hopefully can relieve a lot of the other stress, though feck knows how that'll go) I can get out on the hills. Itching to do it now.
Off to Metal Days festival in Slovenia (a week of metal bands camping in a hilly valley by a river with a beach. Just outside Tolmin. Think I'm gonna get my running going again (again with the ill) and hopefully get some nice long runs while we're there in a nice environment.
To OP - jealous of cornish sea cliffs in your imminent future. Best climbing ever!
4
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Thanks!
All the details are in my appalling handwriting in the book. Mid June last year.
Thanks!
All the details are in my appalling handwriting in the book. Mid June last year.
In reply to davidbeynon:
would love to! Over with the other half and two kids (4 and 8), and travelling light. Will hopefully be fit enough to pick out a hill or two to run up (I like pretty rugged scrambly runs) but no climbing this time.
would love to! Over with the other half and two kids (4 and 8), and travelling light. Will hopefully be fit enough to pick out a hill or two to run up (I like pretty rugged scrambly runs) but no climbing this time.
In reply to davidbeynon:
I photographed all the pages in the New Routes Book last year, so had the details but hadn't gotten that far through the book.
Don't worry about the handwriting - there are much worse examples in there
Chris
I photographed all the pages in the New Routes Book last year, so had the details but hadn't gotten that far through the book.
Don't worry about the handwriting - there are much worse examples in there
Chris
In reply to Scarab9:
You can get up Prisank by the S ridge in a couple of hours from Vrsic if you are going well. There is maybe 20m of steep but easy VF that you probably don't need kit for in the middle.
The cable car up to the Vogel ski resort leads you to the start of some trails that the kids could probably manage. Various places to stop for food and drink up there too. Don't be tempted to walk down the ski run back to the valley - it is unpleasant.
You can get up Prisank by the S ridge in a couple of hours from Vrsic if you are going well. There is maybe 20m of steep but easy VF that you probably don't need kit for in the middle.
The cable car up to the Vogel ski resort leads you to the start of some trails that the kids could probably manage. Various places to stop for food and drink up there too. Don't be tempted to walk down the ski run back to the valley - it is unpleasant.
1
In the Netherlands so awaiting whatever you guys decide today, but still happy to participate.
I climbed very little since October due to a cracked vertebrae (through climbing...), issues with my shoulder (skiing fall) and fingers (thinking that I could do a few 7a+ moves while normally climbing 6a tops). Took up running instead which I enjoy a lot and I might do my first 5km competition tomorrow.
Climbing wise I've been getting back into it with mainly easy (4s) sport routes on the rock in Belgium gaining some confidence and enjoying the outdoors. In the meantime I did an introduction course with nuts & friends and while I still enjoy sport more, it is good training and something I want to explore more. Indoors I've been getting back into shape and I feel that I have lost a lot of finger strength and endurance, so slowly building that up again. Currently climbing 5c/5c+ and getting back into things. I have a week planned in Austria this August that I'm really looking forward to, and there are some vague plans for maybe Kalymnos in fall. Looking forward to doing a lot of climbing the rest of the year.
I climbed very little since October due to a cracked vertebrae (through climbing...), issues with my shoulder (skiing fall) and fingers (thinking that I could do a few 7a+ moves while normally climbing 6a tops). Took up running instead which I enjoy a lot and I might do my first 5km competition tomorrow.
Climbing wise I've been getting back into it with mainly easy (4s) sport routes on the rock in Belgium gaining some confidence and enjoying the outdoors. In the meantime I did an introduction course with nuts & friends and while I still enjoy sport more, it is good training and something I want to explore more. Indoors I've been getting back into shape and I feel that I have lost a lot of finger strength and endurance, so slowly building that up again. Currently climbing 5c/5c+ and getting back into things. I have a week planned in Austria this August that I'm really looking forward to, and there are some vague plans for maybe Kalymnos in fall. Looking forward to doing a lot of climbing the rest of the year.
1
In reply to Trevers:
I love Shorncliff, which route did you lead? State of Independance was really good/interesting
I love Shorncliff, which route did you lead? State of Independance was really good/interesting
1
In reply to springfall2008:
Iron Curtain, which gets 1 star but was probably worth two.
There's some great rock there, a shame a lot of routes are somewhat let down by insecure topouts and suspect belays
> I love Shorncliff, which route did you lead? State of Independance was really good/interesting
Iron Curtain, which gets 1 star but was probably worth two.
There's some great rock there, a shame a lot of routes are somewhat let down by insecure topouts and suspect belays
2
In reply to davidbeynon:
this is very much appreciated! will check out your suggestions.
Can't see the kids and mrs wanting to bother (not their thing at all) but trails are good for me!
Not that I won't take your warning seriously at the end, just reminded me the last time I was abroad I had 3 days in the alps for a work thing. Set off and ran up and down a steep ski run in deep snow. If I remember right it took me about 90-120 mins to get up and about 5-6 mins to get down :-D
> You can get up Prisank by the S ridge in a couple of hours from Vrsic if you are going well. There is maybe 20m of steep but easy VF that you probably don't need kit for in the middle.
> The cable car up to the Vogel ski resort leads you to the start of some trails that the kids could probably manage. Various places to stop for food and drink up there too. Don't be tempted to walk down the ski run back to the valley - it is unpleasant.
this is very much appreciated! will check out your suggestions.
Can't see the kids and mrs wanting to bother (not their thing at all) but trails are good for me!
Not that I won't take your warning seriously at the end, just reminded me the last time I was abroad I had 3 days in the alps for a work thing. Set off and ran up and down a steep ski run in deep snow. If I remember right it took me about 90-120 mins to get up and about 5-6 mins to get down :-D
1
In reply to Trevers:
We wanted to climb Iron curtain but got mixed up and accidentally climbed the HS next to it which wasn't very good.
Must admit I didn't notice any particular problems with the belays/abseils at Shorncliff but then I'm used to dodgy rock.
We wanted to climb Iron curtain but got mixed up and accidentally climbed the HS next to it which wasn't very good.
Must admit I didn't notice any particular problems with the belays/abseils at Shorncliff but then I'm used to dodgy rock.
1
In reply to springfall2008:
There seemed to be a fair few loose flakes in the top third of routes, and a lot of top outs seems to be quite soily and slippery. Some of the belay trees are quite hollow too. Otherwise it's great
> We wanted to climb Iron curtain but got mixed up and accidentally climbed the HS next to it which wasn't very good.
> Must admit I didn't notice any particular problems with the belays/abseils at Shorncliff but then I'm used to dodgy rock.
There seemed to be a fair few loose flakes in the top third of routes, and a lot of top outs seems to be quite soily and slippery. Some of the belay trees are quite hollow too. Otherwise it's great
1
1
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Super psyched after WICM, especially getting down to Wen Slab for the first time this century
Determined to get back there again within the next month.
I've ticked off several HVSs this year which I'm really please about as I've been training hard. My not so secret ambition is to lead my first E1 this year. Wish me luck!
Super psyched after WICM, especially getting down to Wen Slab for the first time this century
Determined to get back there again within the next month.
I've ticked off several HVSs this year which I'm really please about as I've been training hard. My not so secret ambition is to lead my first E1 this year. Wish me luck!
1
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Discovered the meaning of "it's not grit season" last night at Five Clouds. Some very tempting routes but it's green where it counts, zero friction and just unpleasant climbing. Managed one VDiff warm up and that was enough - I'd rather save the routes for cooler weather and more enjoyment. Been doing a lot of sports climbing recently (UK and Spain) and coming back to grit from limestone was a bit of a head f*ck.
Plans are to use the summer for training and get some trips to lakes or Wales as we've never done mountain multi-pitch routes. Hoping to get lots more sport in too before returning to grit in the autumn.
Discovered the meaning of "it's not grit season" last night at Five Clouds. Some very tempting routes but it's green where it counts, zero friction and just unpleasant climbing. Managed one VDiff warm up and that was enough - I'd rather save the routes for cooler weather and more enjoyment. Been doing a lot of sports climbing recently (UK and Spain) and coming back to grit from limestone was a bit of a head f*ck.
Plans are to use the summer for training and get some trips to lakes or Wales as we've never done mountain multi-pitch routes. Hoping to get lots more sport in too before returning to grit in the autumn.
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I'm going to Pembrokeshire in a week's time for 8 days - barring a single day trip, it's the first time I've been out there for nine years. Lots of stuff that I'm keen to get on (recommendations welcome), and then I need to look at booking this year's trip to Kalymnos, where the list of routes I want to try gets longer every year.
There's also plenty of routes locally that I've got my eye on, and I'm hoping to go back to West Penwith later in the summer for a week.
I'm also looking forward to Redpoint Worcester opening shortly - hopefully it will give my local wall a much needed kick up the backside.
I'm going to Pembrokeshire in a week's time for 8 days - barring a single day trip, it's the first time I've been out there for nine years. Lots of stuff that I'm keen to get on (recommendations welcome), and then I need to look at booking this year's trip to Kalymnos, where the list of routes I want to try gets longer every year.
There's also plenty of routes locally that I've got my eye on, and I'm hoping to go back to West Penwith later in the summer for a week.
I'm also looking forward to Redpoint Worcester opening shortly - hopefully it will give my local wall a much needed kick up the backside.
1
In reply to Scarab9:
Get an Almax chain for yr new bike - buy a cheaper bike if you have to so u can get the Alnax. You will sleep better, as well as never losing a bike again.
Good luck!
Get an Almax chain for yr new bike - buy a cheaper bike if you have to so u can get the Alnax. You will sleep better, as well as never losing a bike again.
Good luck!
Post edited at 19:54
In reply to Ben_Climber:
That sounds a pretty good list! I don't think you're alone in never having fallen on trad gear.
Best of luck with the list.
That sounds a pretty good list! I don't think you're alone in never having fallen on trad gear.
Best of luck with the list.
1
In reply to Asher Collins:
Advice; It will rain & the midges will come to feed from you.
other than that you will enjoy -------- and this thread needs a bump!
> I'm planning to head up to the Peak for my first go on grit soon. Does anyone have any advice or stories about what to expect on my first trip? I hear the climbing is quite ballancey with super good friction?
Advice; It will rain & the midges will come to feed from you.
other than that you will enjoy -------- and this thread needs a bump!
Post edited at 20:52
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Thursday - raced up Tennis Shoe, Lazarus, The Arete, Central Arete, over the Glyders, down Bristly Ridge. Quality day out.
Friday - Tremadog on to One Step in the Clouds followed by a spanking on the start of The Plum but the rest was well good.
Saturday - Load of relaxing slab sea cliff routes in St Davids down Pembroke
Today- heavens opened as we were about to ab in to Bosherston Head so top roped an E1&2 that were soon soaking wet but still really good fun.
Proper good little trip. Would of liked to get up Scotland but it was a long way to go on an unsettled forecast. Keen to get back to Bosherston!
Thursday - raced up Tennis Shoe, Lazarus, The Arete, Central Arete, over the Glyders, down Bristly Ridge. Quality day out.
Friday - Tremadog on to One Step in the Clouds followed by a spanking on the start of The Plum but the rest was well good.
Saturday - Load of relaxing slab sea cliff routes in St Davids down Pembroke
Today- heavens opened as we were about to ab in to Bosherston Head so top roped an E1&2 that were soon soaking wet but still really good fun.
Proper good little trip. Would of liked to get up Scotland but it was a long way to go on an unsettled forecast. Keen to get back to Bosherston!
5
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
cheers yeh tired now. Wanted to do more in the mountains but weather just too unpredictable. Always next time!
cheers yeh tired now. Wanted to do more in the mountains but weather just too unpredictable. Always next time!
In reply to Greasy Prusiks: The Dws season is in full swing here in Gibraltar, It's amazing we have it to our selves a total gem.last week I put up an amazing new cave route , steep big holds and great moves.Its only been climbed by my self and a mate but if it were elsewhere it would already be a total classic!
3
In reply to DWS gibraltar:
That sounds pretty damn good! I've only ever done small amounts of deep water solo but I love it. There's a slightly childish thrill to falling in the sea!
What sort of grade is this route?
That sounds pretty damn good! I've only ever done small amounts of deep water solo but I love it. There's a slightly childish thrill to falling in the sea!
What sort of grade is this route?
1
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
I'd like my climbing to remain as it is, that is to say, steadily improving.
I'd like my climbing to remain as it is, that is to say, steadily improving.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
HI,
There routes from French 4 to 7c at present but there is scope for more development.we dont top rope practice perfuming to fall in .All the landings are S0 .check out our FB page Dws Gibraltar.
What we need here is a few wods to come out and help us finish some hard projects !
HI,
There routes from French 4 to 7c at present but there is scope for more development.we dont top rope practice perfuming to fall in .All the landings are S0 .check out our FB page Dws Gibraltar.
What we need here is a few wods to come out and help us finish some hard projects !
Post edited at 07:40
2
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I have many happy memories of Lofoten. I'd love to go back someday, such a stunning place even if it was about £20 for 2 slices of cakes with hot chocolate. I remember watching some fellow climbers catching Cod from the rocks by the little wild camping spot opposite the Gandalf area followed by the smell of fresh fish on the BBQ (they came prepared from Sweden). We did some stunning routes, nothing significant But I enjoyed all of them and we barely scratched the surface.
Very jealous right now.
I have many happy memories of Lofoten. I'd love to go back someday, such a stunning place even if it was about £20 for 2 slices of cakes with hot chocolate. I remember watching some fellow climbers catching Cod from the rocks by the little wild camping spot opposite the Gandalf area followed by the smell of fresh fish on the BBQ (they came prepared from Sweden). We did some stunning routes, nothing significant But I enjoyed all of them and we barely scratched the surface.
Very jealous right now.
1
1
In reply to SenzuBean:
Well turns out the crappy Hewitts were actually really good ones! Lots of rocky outcrops to scramble up, great views, and not a soul on the hill for the entire day. Banged straight into an aircraft wreck as well, then met 8 wild ponies all together. Group one-by-one quit the wild camp, and due to my over-ambitious plan we'd have had to camp somewhere less ideal, so I didn't mind quitting either.
Sunday was a greasy fryup breakfast with a big black coffee, then headed behind Carnedd Dafydd to do Crib Lem spur in the rain. I didn't know there'd be a path going straight to the ridge (via a switchback), so we scrambled directly and 2 group members had to turn around as they weren't confident on that terrain - only a short while later did we meet the highway of a path ;( Oh well. Was really good to have yet another day on the hill without seeing a soul.
Well turns out the crappy Hewitts were actually really good ones! Lots of rocky outcrops to scramble up, great views, and not a soul on the hill for the entire day. Banged straight into an aircraft wreck as well, then met 8 wild ponies all together. Group one-by-one quit the wild camp, and due to my over-ambitious plan we'd have had to camp somewhere less ideal, so I didn't mind quitting either.
Sunday was a greasy fryup breakfast with a big black coffee, then headed behind Carnedd Dafydd to do Crib Lem spur in the rain. I didn't know there'd be a path going straight to the ridge (via a switchback), so we scrambled directly and 2 group members had to turn around as they weren't confident on that terrain - only a short while later did we meet the highway of a path ;( Oh well. Was really good to have yet another day on the hill without seeing a soul.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Took a pleasant trip out to Gate House Crag pretty far North of Leeds. "Crag" is probably a bit generous, "collection of boulders" would be more accurate but, as someone who loves and is shit at bouldering, it was great. Loads of problems in the 4 to 6a range so I could literally start at one end and work my way to the other on all the problems. Brilliant (and free!) printed guide from "Unknown Stones" and only myself for company.
When stood up on top I couldn't hear or see any cars, just nature. It may not have been tough, shirt off, beanie on, v12 bouldering but I had a fantastic 2 hours on 'easy' stuff.
Here's a few pics, none of me actually climbing. https://imgur.com/a/dvRSK (the one of me looking grumpy is my face after reading about the 25 min walk in).
Then yesterday I went indoors to the Leeds Wall and climbed with a rope for the first time in about 9 months! Really enjoyed it.
Tonight - City Bloc. Though I'm very tempted to go out somewhere given the weather is looking great.
Took a pleasant trip out to Gate House Crag pretty far North of Leeds. "Crag" is probably a bit generous, "collection of boulders" would be more accurate but, as someone who loves and is shit at bouldering, it was great. Loads of problems in the 4 to 6a range so I could literally start at one end and work my way to the other on all the problems. Brilliant (and free!) printed guide from "Unknown Stones" and only myself for company.
When stood up on top I couldn't hear or see any cars, just nature. It may not have been tough, shirt off, beanie on, v12 bouldering but I had a fantastic 2 hours on 'easy' stuff.
Here's a few pics, none of me actually climbing. https://imgur.com/a/dvRSK (the one of me looking grumpy is my face after reading about the 25 min walk in).
Then yesterday I went indoors to the Leeds Wall and climbed with a rope for the first time in about 9 months! Really enjoyed it.
Tonight - City Bloc. Though I'm very tempted to go out somewhere given the weather is looking great.
2
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Managed to grab a day at fairy cave on Sunday. We were able to fit 4 routes in before the rain made everything unclimbable - better than expected!
Managed to grab a day at fairy cave on Sunday. We were able to fit 4 routes in before the rain made everything unclimbable - better than expected!
Post edited at 21:42
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:
Saturday was fun at Millstone. Krystle lead Great Slab, which was somewhat greasy, especially the first 15ft. Lesley was struggling, but it had started to spit with rain, so I ran up to the top with a waterproof for Krystle. At which point Lesley decided that she was going to can it. Thinking a rapid second would be quicker and less faff that setting up an ab for the gear, I ran back down and tied on. !0ft up and the heavens opened. By 20ft the slab had a 2inch deep orange river running down it, the corner above actually had a waterfall in it. Arrived at the top somewhat damp. A rapid wet retreat to the Millstone Inn ensued. This is what climbing is about! Epic days and cock-ups! We were all happy! (Not the best second day outdoor climbing for Dominic!)
Saturday was fun at Millstone. Krystle lead Great Slab, which was somewhat greasy, especially the first 15ft. Lesley was struggling, but it had started to spit with rain, so I ran up to the top with a waterproof for Krystle. At which point Lesley decided that she was going to can it. Thinking a rapid second would be quicker and less faff that setting up an ab for the gear, I ran back down and tied on. !0ft up and the heavens opened. By 20ft the slab had a 2inch deep orange river running down it, the corner above actually had a waterfall in it. Arrived at the top somewhat damp. A rapid wet retreat to the Millstone Inn ensued. This is what climbing is about! Epic days and cock-ups! We were all happy! (Not the best second day outdoor climbing for Dominic!)
1
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