UKC Forums - Central Butress, Scarfell

Central Butress, Scarfell

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PaulTanton 12 Jul 2016

BMC article states that CB was the first E1 in the country. First assent 1914.
But it only became E1 after the block fell out. I've done it before and after. VS to HVS with block. E1 now.

Misha 12 Jul 2016

In reply to PaulTanton:
I thought the pitch before the flake was worth E1, tricky moves above poor gear at one point, though didn't help it being damp.

Misha 12 Jul 2016

In reply to PaulTanton:

I thought Suicide Wall at Idwal was the first E1 but may be wrong.

Gordon Stainforth 12 Jul 2016

In reply to Misha:
No, it was Cave Arete Indirect at Laddow, in 1916, solo by Ivar Berg. UKC consensus is mid-E1, 5b.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=15814

Post edited at 14:52

joe.91 12 Jul 2016

In reply to PaulTanton: the original route is now E3 since the block fell out, the original route went straight up the flake but is now more strenuous and harder to protect hence the upgrade.

CB now still gets E1 using the marr (?) variation which goes straight up the front of the flake.

Or at least that's what I think is correct, maybe wrong.

jon_gill1 12 Jul 2016

In reply to joe.91:

Yes going up the flake direct minus the chockstone is now called great flake and gets E3 5c which is the route climbed in the video.this thread had me doubting myself about my fb response to the bmc thread.so I just checked it in two guide books and both say E3 5c!