UKC

Hey all. Anyone recommend a decent sport venue in the Peak District in a nice setting, rather than a big waste land (like horseshoe!)?

I've climbed a lot at Masson Lees and like the climbing there but also like the feel of the place, it's a bit more chilled than the average abandoned quarry. Any other peak quarries or crags that Got that description, but also with quality climbing in the 6's and lower 7's?

I know Reynard's arch at dovedale is a stunning setting, but only a few mid grade routes there. Was also thinking of Harpur Hill, but some have described it as good climbing, but a bit of a dump!

Any advice would be great,

Thanks all.

In reply to Fraser kid:

Chee Dale or Water Cum Jolly or go to Yorkshire.

In reply to Fraser kid:

I love Harpur Hill - it's like climbing in a post-apocalyptic waste complete with toxic lake!

In reply to GargoyleFeet:

Any zombies?

In reply to Fraser kid:

You know, it would be a great setting for a low budget zombie movie!

In reply to Fraser kid:

There have been some lovel orchids and other wildflowers in Horseshoe this year

In reply to Fraser kid:


A substantial percentage of the local residents, from what I can gather...

In reply to Fraser kid:

Yorkshire Robin Proctors, Stoney Bank,

Or get over to Clwyd limestone?

In reply to Fraser kid:

+1 for cheedale!

In reply to Fraser kid:

Aren't there sport climbers their?

In reply to Fraser kid:

Cheedale or er.... Dinbren... but it is definitely far western Peak mind you !

In reply to Fraser kid:

The Orme surely is the answer

Some great lines, nice sea views, trad, sport, boudering (err, the cave of doom). Roadside or sea cliffs. DWS if you are keen.

Great 3* routes in the 7a/b category.

Shame about the kids and the tourists but you cant have it all.

In reply to Fraser kid:

Harpur Hill is much less of a dump than Masson Lees. It also has some good views from most of the climbing spots.

In reply to Fraser kid:

I think you have already been to the nicest sport venue in the Peak for 6s and low 7s - Masson Lees. Horseshoe is getting nicer every year as a location, but the rest are either bleak post apocalyptic landscapes i.e Harpur Hill or Halldale or overgrown with trees up to the crag - Cawdor. Intake Quarry might just scrape in to the more pleasant category. Good spread of grades, no burnt out cars, no forest up to the crag.

In reply to Fraser kid:

Also would like to add.
Avoid Cole Hill Quarry. It is a nice place, with beautiful routes and is an SSSI for it's geology. The new land manager appears to be trying to actively deter climbers (It has had a ban for a number of years, but the previous land manager tended to tolerate climbers as they kept the place tidy and the crag free of occluding vegetation!) but allow dog walkers and group parties, both of whom leave a mess, which has often been cleared away by climbers. Hopefully negotiations are under way to allow climbing access so avoiding the place may allow some progress to be made, if the land manager sees we are respectful.

In reply to snoop6060:

The Ormes are great but technically not part of the Peak District.

In reply to Fraser kid:

Goddard's quarry: The plantation sector is really nice now. All the trees have grown up a bit and it's really nice place on a hot sunny day. It's very green and a good distance from the main road.

Devonshire Buttress is nice. It's directly above a railway line but there are so few trains it's easy to forget it's there when climbing. Really good clean natural limestone. Not for hot weather though.

Stoney West is pleasant enough. Although close to the road the separation by trees largely obscure the fact. And natural limestone - not quarried.

Central Buttress, WCJ has good routes in that grade range.

Harpur HIll: I think once you're there, on the upper tier, it's not unpleasant. It's very open but provides nice views on a hot day - very different to Horseshoe.

Smalldale: the approach is very industrial but once at the foot of the routes, particularly the RH side, you don't notice it too much. Good rock, and a different style from elsewhere.

High Tor RH: a small selection of good routes up to 6c+. Tree shrouded at the base but not unpleasant.

In reply to Fraser kid:
Chee Dale Upper

- Blackwell Halt

In reply to stp:

I#ve just got back from high tor actually and thought it was brilliant. Really good quality, having been used to quarries, and some great views, especially up the pillar.

In reply to Fraser kid:

Thanks all for replies, it's given me a big list to get round and try them all. Thanks

In reply to Fraser kid:

The sports climbing settings in N Wales are generally much nicer than those in the Peak. The Ormes, Penmaenbach and Eglwyseg Valley all offer really scenic venues (e.g. watching cormorants and seals frm Sticky Mix, looking out over the Gt Orme from Penmaenbach, looking S to the Berwyns from Compact Wall or over the castle ruins from Dinbren. The Benllech area can also be nice at the right time of year when the vegetation is not too high. Personally, even though they are big man-made holes in the ground, I find the slate quarries scenic and fascinating with the Snowdon Horseshoe as a backdrop.