UKC

Does anyone know what condition the situ gear is in on Opal Moon and New Dimensions?

In reply to Billg:

It was pretty good when I was last there - 31yrs ago.
Sorry, not really very helpful that was it?
Grabs coat ...

In reply to Billg:

Think on the 2nd pitch of New Dimensions there is a bolt or two, along with a bolt at the belay. Only did the first pitch as my partner freaked out and wanted to go down when we got there... Need to get back to finish it off!

No idea on Opal Moon though, sorry!! Think you ab into that one anyway so guess you could have a look-see on the way down? Post up here if you do get down there!

You could also try posting on UKBouldering as Pete Harrison who wrote the guide/did loads of bolting and rebolting posts on there. He won't see this as he is banned from UKC iirc.

In reply to Duncan Campbell:


I'd be keen - it's in my long term ticklist: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=420

In reply to Billg:

It's times like this when I wish I had a better memory....

I did New Dimensions a few years ago, but can't for the life of me remember whether it had new bolts in or not. Part of me thinks it did, but that the old ones were in there too (I have recollections of rust...) - hence you could clip quite a lot of things both old and new. What makes me inclined to think the new ones WERE in is that I don't remember being terrified by old gear. This is the sort of thing I would have remembered and commented on within my logbook. If that isn't the least helpful advice I have ever given I don't know what is*

On a more helpful note, I would highly recommend doing it in a single pitch, all the way up to the 'Mini-Finish'. It requires a bit of skill + ropework, but pays dividends in the long run as it is a truly unforgettable pitch...apart from the bit you're asking about...which I've definitely forgotten...

Certainly up there with the best E4s Wales has to offer.

* I'm almost certain I've given Duncan (Campbell) worse advice previously, but in keeping with the recollections above can't remember exactly what that advice would have been...

In reply to Ally Smith:

Cool! I'll give you a shout sometime!

In reply to Billg:
I did Opal Moon many years (20+?) ago and can offer some out of date advice. As you ab in, clip the rope in to at least some of the threads you can see on the way down. It keeps you in contact. I wasn't sure exactly where I was going and by the time I saw where I needed to be I was dangling in space and couldn't generate enough swing to get there. I continued to the bottom, walked out and tried again this time clipping the tat as I went, it worked really well. The belay at the bottom was an enormous thread, not in situ and no need to be as the gap behind was wide. The first real protection was a bolt and it was in a bad state even then (whitening alu hanger I seem to remember) and the rock needed care as well. The rock and the natural gear improved after that and you could rely on your own gear most of the way. However there was a thread by the final hard bit in the upper groove and I can't remember how near other gear was to that. It was in a decent state then but was thin and probbly won't have lasted well without replacement,

In reply to harold walmsley:

Thanks folks. I'll take some new tat. What's the ethics considered to be about replacing the old bolts with new ,like for like?

In reply to Billg:

Hi there,
We did New Dimensions last week: P1 has no in situ bolts but one obvious thread low down with many ropes on it (protecting the move right on to the slab). You should be able to place lots of natural gear on P1. P2 has one new resin staple protecting the start of the crux sequence, some sneaky wires & a small cam but the last part of the groove is protected by a rusting bolt head! Lark's foot it with a sling or put the wire of a nut over it & hope for the best! The rest of P2 & P3 (if you do it) are well protected. Incidentally the abseil station above the crag for New Dimensions has new resin bolts in place.

The abseil for Opal Moon is more complicated: there are new resin bolt anchors in place below & to the right (facing out) of the ND ab point but the scramble down to it is dangerous, especially if damp. We used the ab rope (attached to 2 large blocks above it) to safeguard our descent. The subsequent ab to Opal Moon isn't easy either: you need to go diagonally right (facing out again) & clip the bolts on Trade Winds. This isn't mentioned in the recent guidebook but is on the UKC description. Not knowing any of this, I ended up in space & wide of the mark: ooops! I did pass much rotten old gear as I descended (some disintegrated in my hands) but I'm not sure which route it was on!

Good luck.

In reply to Duncan Campbell:


What? PH banned? Does that mean for life?
He and/or Andy Boorman could probably advise on any route on NWL.

In reply to AP Melbourne:

Why didn't you come over to the UK and promote you're book with a few talks, I'm sure they would have been popular

In reply to Mark Lloyd:


Thanks Mark. Yes, it was put to me; London, Midlands, S &N.Wales, Sheff, Manch, Lakes and Scotland plus a spot at the next Kendal festival but for various reasons I politely (Pollittly) declined.
Thing is, after 23yrs away I have simply too many family members and friends and would be rushing around like headless chook. Also loath flying.
Kind of you to ask though and the book will either do well - or not, on its merits anyway.
Cheers,
Andy.