UKC

Merlin Slab (D)

first multi pitch in a good while, so picked something easy- 2** diff on a quiet crag sounded like it should fit the bill. And it did- varied pitches, excellent situations, mostly clean rock and on the whole easy climbing.

which was just as well, as there wasn't much in the way of placements for runners... lots of hopeful looking cracks that were too shallow or flaring to take gear. I ended up running the first two pitches together and got 2 useful pieces of gear in 30 odd metres. similar tale on the top pitch- no real prospect of a fall as the climbing was easy, but being 15 metres out from the last runner with the drop to the floor of the valley between my feet was good fun....

how does this compare to the other nearby crags eg gimmer and Harrison stickle? while I didn't mind that on a fairly soft diff, I would have found that level of boldness a little alarming if it was on a severe, of which there are some I've got an eye on at these other two crags? Is there more in the way of reliable gear placements to reassure the timid leader, or should only the bold apply...?

cheers
gregor

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
I think a bit of loose rock and boldness and to be expected in Langdale, and the guidebook doesn't always tell you. Obviously varies a bit by crag. Gimmer is generally pretty solid with reasonable gear in my experience, but it'll vary by route. Checking the UKC logbook might help on popular routes.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I haven't climbed on Harrison Stickle but the routes in Langdale do not, in general, seem overly bold, nor super well protected.....somewhere in the middle on most I think so I don't think you would need to be super bold or want to be super timid to have a good day.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:


The quieter the crag, the fewer people have climbed the routes, the less the chance of issues like this reaching the guidebook team

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Your choice of route was a wee bit obscure and you would seem to have experienced the 'alpine atmosphere' mentioned in the guide.

Gimmer is very different.

In reply to Andy Say:


Yes that sounds about right. The rock on the top pitch was a bit 'alpine' in places too! As in variably attached to the mountain...

A good route though, very atmospheric. Not every route you can start with a hunt for prehistoric arrow heads!

Good to know the protection is a bit less sparse on gimmer. has anyone done any of the routes on Harrison stickle- especially porphyry slab and treasure? How do they compare in that area?

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I was on gimmer yesterday and knocked off 2 routes. The protection is great. To get the head back into it 'bracket and slab' is a great severe and has plenty of gear with proper platform belays to break it up. The v diff next to it is also great.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

One gem in Langdale is Scout Crag No1 which is graded V Diff. The first pitch runs up a shallow crack which is trickier than it looks and not over easy to protect. I'd say this crack is high in the grad and verging on Severe. The second pitch is delightful and runs up a very exposed rib on small but sound holds. This pitch is very difficult to get gear in and requires a bold mainly unprotected long lead out, but it's very rewarding and I think correctly graded at V Diff.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Treasure quite well protected. Harristickorner (if that,s the v.diff.) perhaps less so and continuation of Spillikin Ridge isn't overly well protected either.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:


thanks- definitely want to get a route on gimmer done soon, had been a bit put off by the thought it might be an exercise in managing nerve on big run outs...

In reply to Trangia:

yes, nearly did it last year- but there were queues! was like being at stanage...

In reply to Rog Wilko:

no, the v diff is a bit further round, next to treasure. the guidebook mentions the limited protection on spillikin ridge, so hopefully porphyry slab is like treasure- it looks a nice crag, and not as exposed as the ones directly overlooking the valley, will have a look at i when i'm up there next

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I've found the gear generally adequate to good on Gimmer. It gobbles up small to medium wires, but they can be a bit fiddly to place sometimes. Walnuts seem to seat better than rocks, and cams are useful too. I have only used offsets a couple of times, but they seem to suit the rock there well.