UKC

Hi all,

Just organising a trip up that way in the next few week and was looking for any recommendations for crags and routes in the Wye valley area. Group I'm going with are mixed bunch from beginners through to mid-ish grade types of about E2/3. In an ideal world there'd be a couple of awesome crags chock full of great trad routes and sport too in the same place but that's a bit hopeful I imagine...

Also looking if anyone can point me in the direction of a good campsite (ideally one that allows fires) that'd also make this whole thing a lot easier!

Cheers in advance

Mike

In reply to NaCl:

Wintours leap? Trad and sport.
shorn cliff? Trad
ban y gor and wyndcliff? Mixed.

In that order I think.
shorn cliff is easier for medium groups of less able climbers.

Camp site, fire and tolerant of groups would be beeches farm.
I know a nice quiet campsite too, but I'd like to keep it that way. ...

In reply to Kevster:

Ace - thanks man. I contacted Beeches farm but they are full apparently (or at least not wanting us...)

In reply to NaCl:


I just booked today for this Friday and Saturday!

In reply to Steve-J-E:

in that case they just don't want us I guess. I have had that vibe from a few places I've spoken to.

In reply to NaCl:


Why wouldn't they want you? How do you describe yourself and your group? I just asked for a camping pitch!

In reply to Steve-J-E:

I guess that a group that wants to start fires isn't going to sound too good

In reply to NaCl:

Another nod to Beeches Farm campsite. At the top of a hill, it has great views and is a lovely place to be. Shorncliff is in walking distance, as is a great pub - The Brockweir Inn.

In reply to GrahamD:

Not for the Beeches - every pitch has a firepit and I bet they make a mint selling firewood as you're not 'officially' allowed to bring in your own wood.

In reply to pasbury:

All sounds a lot more formal than when I was there last !

In reply to NaCl:
Beanhill Farm isn't bad - not too far away from Shorn Cliff and Wintour's. They have fire pits for hire, and are fine with groups.
http://www.beanhillfarm.co.uk/

In reply to Steve-J-E:

I asked about availability for approx 8 people (men and women) in 5 tents and was basically told that they couldn't fit us in. No questions were asked regarding our pyromaniacal tendencies, age, noisemaking, drunkeness or owt.

Ah well, thanks for the info by the way peeps!

In reply to NaCl:

Ah right, only one tent for us. Didn't tell them there are 6 of us in it!

In reply to NaCl: Don't bother with Symonds Yat, it's a terrible crag.

Wyndcliff is great with a fine selection of very good routes between HVS and E2.

In reply to NaCl:

The best campsite I've stayed in in the valley was Elmsdale Touring Caravan and Camping Site, its in the north Wye Valley so better suited to Symonds Yat than some of the more southern crags. However if you are prepared to drive a bit more you can still visit Wintours etc.
The campsite its self was reasonable, decent toilets, showers, washing facilities etc, however the big selling point is that there is a FREE SHUTTLE BUS SERVICE to the LOCAL PUB! Which serves decent food and beer.

Crag wise, I was seriously impressed by Wintours Leap on my last trip to the Wye valley a huge crag with lots of multi-pitch across the grades (plus some sport for those that way inclined). It reminded me a little of Tremmadog only with nicer views.

In reply to Frank the Husky:



Wyndcliff is great with a fine selection of very good routes between S and E2.

In reply to springfall2008:

Cragwise:

Shorn Cliff: Lots of lovely single pitch climbing on pockets and conglomerations. Especially good in the VS - E2 band. 100% Trad.

Wintour's Leap: The biggest Wye Crag, some good multipitch routes, wide range of grades, some polish (especially on popular Fly Wall routes). Mix of Trad and Sport, Woodcroft Quarry has the highest concentration of Sport Climbs, but there are other bolted lines dotted around. Generally the Trad is better quality than the Sport. Best lower Wye crag for sub VS routes.

Ban-Y-Gor: Underrated Crag, paths at base can be tricky to navigate, and doesn't get so much sun, but there is lots of good steep Sport climbing available, the Main Crag is the best area, top routes in the F7s, but plenty of worthwhile easier stuff too. Accessible from the same Lancaut lane parking area as Wintour's Leap, so easy to do a split day. Some remaining Trad lines, but predominately a Sport crag.

Wyndcliff: 100% Trad. Long single pitch Trad routes, some great lines in the VS - E2 band. Often strenuous and steep, but typically reasonably well protected. Left Hand crag has a sunny aspect, but is a little neglected, expect some veg. and potentially loose rock in the upper sections of routes. Right Hand crag a little more popular.

Wynd Cliff Quarry: Convenience roadside Sport crag that has seen lots of recent development (a few Trad lines remain). Nothing exceptional, but great for mileage, best stuff largely on the Upper Tier. Easily combined with Trad at Wyndcliff.

Tintern Quarry: Sports venue with lots of loose rock and dubious access situation. Loads of routes, but there are better options in the Wye.

Symonds Yat: 100% Trad. A bit further North than the other crags and as comments above indicate a bit of a Marmite crag. There is good steep climbing across the grades available, in a decent dry spell it can be a really rewarding day out, definitely a crag where it is worth seeking the starred lines, a lot of the more obscure stuff is pretty esoteric. Some good (if polished) sub VS routes available.

Here's a ticklist that highlights some of the best Trad and Sport offerings on the Lower Wye crags in the Rockfax Orange Spot zone (F5a - F6a+ & HS - HVS): http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=519