UKC

Hey,

I'm wondering if someone could explain something to me.

As I understand it, the current bouldering competition scoring works as follows:

4t5 4b7

Would mean there were 4 tops achieved with 5 total attempts and 4 bonuses achieved with 7 attempts.

My question is, how can there be more (or less) attempts on the bonus hold than the tops? Surely every attempt is an attempt to the top? Or is an attempt to the top only counted after the bonus has been reached?

In my head, it should be total attempts on the problem as one figure. ie, if a climber took 4 attempts to reach the top, it is obvious that all four of those attempts were to the top. ie 1t1b 4. So in four total attempts, 1 top was reached and 1 bonus was reached (assuming that if the top is reached the bonus is also).

Am i missing something?? I just don't understand how some attempts are classed as being for the bonus and some for the top. Surely they are all for the top? And if so, how come there can ever be more attempts for the bonus than the top?? Wouldn't the amount of attempts for the bonus be exactly the same figure as the amount of attempts for the top?

Thanks

In reply to andycharrington:



Yes.


The overall number is the sum of the attempts for each problem.

For each problem the number is the attempt on which the top or bonus was first achieved. If you don't get the top that problem does not increase your overall attempt count for tops and similarly if you don't get the bonus the problem doesn't increase your total number of attempts for bonuses.

If you get the bonus before you get the top then it is the number of the attempt where you first got the bonus that gets added to your total attempts on bonuses and that will be a lower number than the one that gets added to your total attempts on tops. So you could have fewer attempts on bonuses than attempts on tops.

If you get the bonus but don't get the top then you could have more attempts on bonuses than attempts on tops.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:


That's what I'd been missing. So the attempts is not the amount of times you pull on to the wall. It's the attempt number on which you reached the bonus or the top.

So, I could pull on to the wall 10 times, reach the bonus on my 3rd attempt and the top on the last attempt and my score would be 1t10 1b3.

And if on the next problem I pulled on to the wall 5 times, didn't reach the top but reached the bonus on the first attempt, my score (for that one problem) would be 0t0 1b1.

Giving me an overall score for the first two problems of 1t10 2b4.

Right?

ps. Thank you!

In reply to andycharrington:



Yes

In reply to andycharrington:

If I reach the bonus on my second attempt and the top on my fourth it would be 1 bonus in 2 attempts and 1 top in four attempts.

If I were to flash the problem it would be 1t in 1b in 1 attempt.

You can't have one top gained in less attempts than the bonus as every attempt counts and you have to pass the bonus to get to the top.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:



Pretty sure that's wrong, without checking the rules.

A climber who makes the top is deemed to have scored the bonus whether or not they used the bonus hold to achieve the top.

So the only way for the number of attempts at bonus can exceed the number of attempts at top is if the number of bonus holds achieved exceeds the number of tops achieved.

So 4t5 4b7 is an impossible score, 4t5 5b7 would be ok because the extra attempts relate to a problem where the bonus was achieved but not the top.

In reply to winhill:

Incorrect in part assuming IFSC rules. Martin Stranik was not given the bonus tick when he topped in one of the first rounds of the Bouldering WC this year.

See here: http://onbouldering.com/why-didnt-stranik-get-the-bonus/

In reply to Fishmate:


Rule 7.4.2 .... "The bonus point will be awarded also where a competitor successfully
completes the boulder without having controlled the Bonus Hold."....

In reply to winhill:

The original question was whether 4t5 4b7 means four tops from 5 attempts and 4 bonuses from 7 attempts which it does. Whether it is a possible score is another question and I agree that it isn't.

In reply to Fishmate:



I cant get the volume high enough to hear but he got the bonus on the 4th attempt, so I dont think whats being discussed in the vid is why he didn't get the bonus after topping, you need to check that.